E30 Zone

When you get your meter check the power at the far side of that fuse.

Yes, there are two little holes either side of the fuse so a reasonalble bit of thick wire will slot in them.

Nay, I went through all this S**T recently, have you checked to see if there is an inline fuse on the thin wire coming off the + battery lead in the boot, its about 18" along under a plastic sheath, its a 50 amp fuse, my had a very fine break in it which caused intermitent starting and cutting out, ...

OK, daft question but where is the battery located?

Which relay have you been looking at (location)

Falkster wrote:
biggee wrote:So have you checked to see if the belt is adjusted up following fitting of the new bracket.
Surely if it wasn't fitted right there would be squaks?

Just seems a bit odd, the bracket is changed and now it's not charging.

So have you checked to see if the belt is adjusted up following fitting of the new bracket.

Are you sure it's the alternator, have you done any work on the car lately?

Thanks for the comprehensive answer, I originally bought a 30 watt iron and this was useless, I didn't really want to spend a fortune on an iron as it's pretty much a one off job, so second time round I have bought a draper kit which contains the 100 watt iron and solder sucker etc, I suppose I will...

So does the none eco stuff melt easier?? or is it just more reliable.

diameter 1mm Sn 99.3% Cu 0.7%

Not sure it just came with the gun

I have been trying to solder two wires, one the ignition (quite thick) the other is the immobiliser(quite thin) the problem is I can't seem to get enough heat into them with an 100 watt iron to melt the solder. Has anyone had any similar experience and if so how did you overcome it.

Helped me out with some clips NLA from dealers, extra helpfull, cheers.

Does anyone know how to locate the huge return spring that sits behind the clutch pedal, I can see the there is two lugs on the end of it but there doesn't seem to be anywhere for them to slot into.

Insert a bar through the remaining metal part, then keep hitting it north,east, south and west, try using some WD40 at the same time, eventually it will come out but they can be real tight, take it easy or you will snap it, this is where the real fun starts and basically it will need drilling and ha...

Are you talking about the centre(metal) part of the bush, if so as it snapped off and left a small part in there.

OK, Its no big deal removing it, you might want to take the seat out but I did'nt bother, the four nuts are quite accessable in the footwell, from memory I think there is even an hole through one of the pedal arms for the extension bar to pass through. Good luck

Are you talking about the brake booster ( black round thing)

I have being trying to rectify my central locking, I have read lots but unfortunately I had already gone in all guns blazing and stripped all the door down when there was absolutely no need. I have read about the black/red wire mod and to my absolute amazement this has already been done, I'm amazed ...

I had an old as the hills soldering iron that packed up so replaced it with a 30w iron from maplins, I tried to solder the ignition wire but no joy, As anyone any advice on what wattage and tip size to buy. I have seen a draper set on Evilbay at £18.00 aswell as some 50w one around the £8.00 mark. J...

Have you looked down to the bottom of the speaker hole. You should see the unit there with the door light relay, there are two small screws below the speaker hole that hold the module and relay mount, once these are removed you should be able to lift the whole lot out of the speaker hole. ``````````...

Wow, just WOW! Not one but two you lucky git :D The question is why would the previous billonaire order two of the buggers and not drive either of them! And why both RED!? 8O (not like its a bad colour but i would have got a black one too) The answer to your question is "thats why he's a billionaire"

Hi Brian, I could not resist, so I've been out there again, located the fusible link, uncovered the shrinkwrap, everything looked fine, checked for voltage going in 12v, voltage going out, nothing, there is a secondary rubber cover over the fuse which I removed, I then spotted a little crack in the ...

I will check this out tomorrow night. I have just seen this on another forum where it seems someone was having the exact same problem. "There is a 50amp Fuse built in to the battery cable that is on the circut you are having problems with. It's in the trunk, you can feel it shrink wrapped on the sma...

Thanks, could you elaborate on "fusible link rather than conventional fuse" I have already checked the battery lead where it disappears through the back seat but I do not seem to be able to see anything.

Brian, your right, its red coming into the relay. I have just checked for voltage at the main relay, without ignition on 0.09v with ignition on 4v maximum with a lot of fluctuation. With the metal cover on the relay I can feel it getting warm, also I have removed the relay cover and the contact does...

OK so I guess I should check for power on pin 30 of the main relay, the wire from the battery is black, I will check it out now.

It's a lighter green than than the one to the ignition coil. It has a violet stripe on it, I have it temporarily joined together. It all looks original, I wish the idiot who fitted the immobiliser would have cut it a bit lower as its going to real hard to solder. Is it possible to remove the whole b...

Green

No, The wire within the fusebox to fuse 11 is cut in half for the immobiliser.

I will check that out, meantime I have just rigged the immobilser back up, when activated the fuel pump turns on even though there is still no power at the relay or fuse 11 etc. The pump turns on even with no relay in.

Just to confirm I have checked the small wire on the postive battery terminal and there is no problem. Also definately no power on pin 30 at the fuel relay.

OK sorry, 1987 M3, immobiliser removed as it was suspected the problem, however it made no difference still no spark and no fuel pump. I have checked the power on the bulkhead where I presume the power comes in from the battery, I am getting a reading of 12v on one terminal and 6v on the other. I ha...

Due to major none starting problems I am trying to eliminate a few things. I suspected the fuel pump was not working whilst cranking. I tried bridging pins 87 and 30 at the fuel relay but nothing happened. I have checked all pins in this relay plug and there is no voltage whatsoever, can anyone tell...

Search found 162 matches

Re: Please Help! No spark...

Re: Please Help! No spark...

Re: Please Help! No spark...

Re: Please Help! No spark...

Re: Interior light (my cock up)

Re: HELP!!! Alternator?

Re: HELP!!! Alternator?

Re: HELP!!! Alternator?

Re: To solder or crimp

Re: To solder or crimp

Re: To solder or crimp

Re: To solder or crimp

To solder or crimp

Re:

How to locate large spring behind clutch pedal

Re: Rear subframe advice please

Re: Rear subframe advice please

Re: M3 Brake servo removal

Re: M3 Brake servo removal

Central locking problem - almost there

What size soldering iron.?

Re: central locking

Re:

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

Re: No power at fuel relay.

No power at fuel relay.