E30 Zone

Here is probably your best bet, There's one above and I have 2 kicking about.

They are worth so little no one really bothers to list them.

bimanut wrote:A new genuine one isn't major expensive from dealers last time I looked

Are they genuine or "BMW approved" though?

I would do some searching on here for recent fritzbits threads first...

If you do roll the inner flange clean the flange up properly, check it for rust creeping below the paint and treat it, paint the arch lip before rolling and seal up after with seam sealer. Too many people (and some companies that should know better) just roll them over on the dirt and then wonder wh...

To be honest I have never found pirtek to be that helpful and damn do they know how to charge.

You might find that it is the lip of the rear arches, the front half of the lip is rolled but the rear 50% is only turned 90 degrees. On mine I did have to roll the lip back due to the combination of wheel width and offset. I think it is only the E36 compact arm and hub that has no effect on wheel t...

Blow by was ok when it was leakdown tested. A catch can may be able to give you enough clear/good running time to find the problem. If it was plumbed into the breather pipe and done to allow oil to drip down back into the crank case via the dip stick or oil return pipe then it would prevent the inle...

It think so, The ones I have for mine are chopped cabriolet ones to meet the facelift arch profile.

If I remember when I get home I will take a picture.

Some versions are a little short and need a little extension tack welding on, not much of a bother though.

You can make it work, and work well, but the time and money spent would see much bigger better things from using another engine to start with or going for better turbo bits. 1K is enough for rods and pistons for some engines or you could use that cash to ditch the M40 for an M44 and start with a 16v...

I would suggest you do a lot more reading, you will find you plans do not make sense.

Anything built after the E36 (Z3 and onward) does not have cutout for locking tabs anyway. I was thinking the other day that if they were to come undone the change in your tracking would be so extreme that the car would be all over the road before the joint even came close to coming undone all the w...

It sounded exactly like an over tensioned belt or a bad accessory bushing, a whuuring sound. I pulled it all apart, checked everything, checked the tension, etc,etc and found nothing wrong so just left it after a few miles it quietened down. I'm a bit paranoid about timing belts and it just didn't s...

If that's not an iron liner block then you may have just killed it by giving it a hone!

One think I have noticed is some belts are a little rough in surface finish on the back face of the belt, makes them noisy over the tensioner for a few miles then they settle down. I ended up stripping and checking the whole timing assembly to work that one out, it was only when comparing belts did ...

INA own FAG and the INA tensioners are FAG bearings, always had good results with FAG stuff but as always this is the automotive aftermarket and suppliers change year on year so your mileage can drastically vary. I was under impression that INA, FAG and SKF are one company :roll: Schaeffler are the...

^^ what Dan said, sounds like E36 ones.

When I am in the garage tonight I will check the spacing on the Z3(e36) ones I just took off.

Lambda bosses are M18x1.5 thread IIRC so a normal bolt with the correct thread can be used as a blank if it is cut to the correct length.

End of the day, for a manifold, stainless only adds bling. Manifolds get hot enough to burn off any moisture pretty quickly so rust is not really an issue and there's no difference in performance.

I would be more worried about the inlet valve clipping the edge of the 80mm bore. Its pretty close to the surface of the head on the 885 head. Your car should have either a 200 or 731 head, both of which are easily available. E21 320/6 heads should also fit as they are 200 heads but may lack sensor ...

Indeed, work hardening austenitic stainless changes it to a body centred cubic (martensite) and it thus becomes magnetic.

Edit - Top first post.

I have always had good success with the Elring gaskets just to back up what was said above.

Check the drive shaft CVs, if they are worn enough they can throw out at certain speeds and cause imbalance.

BUT if they have changed the centre bearing, make sure the prop is in correct alignment, there is no master spline!

Ah loose rack ends is a big one, seems people find play in the steering and only replace the outer rod ends, leaving the inner ones with just as much play.
They are about £17 a pop so worth doing even if a little suspect.

Lemforder Z3 topmounts are the same as E46 m3 ones and half the price.

Its possible Lemforder may now only make the improved e46 style mounts.

INA own FAG and the INA tensioners are FAG bearings, always had good results with FAG stuff but as always this is the automotive aftermarket and suppliers change year on year so your mileage can drastically vary.

That's a good point, Nankangs are lethal on an E30.

Do you know what rack is in it? Some of the E36/46 racks feel overboosted when hooked up to an E30 pump. Certainly since getting the Z3 I have noticed how high the PAS assistance is on my E30, something that does lead to a twitchy feeling as the steering is very sensitive to small inputs. For the "b...

I have been using one of these recently. Too early to give a proper review on it but so far it seems to have been able to get the Z3 tracking nearly spot on.

http://www.trackace.co.uk/

Yep, sounds like carbon and other shite build up stopping the bushes sliding in. Sounds like you had the last old school RAC man on the team.

Nothing a clean and maybe a new brushing pack (~£15) won't fix.

Thought there was a number on the bottom of the cap.

120 for a recall and 140 for a old style?

After market tensioners do it as well far as I can see. Seen it with Contitech and INA ones. So not even cheap crap. Your right the bearings are always fine so I don't know what causes it, wonder if it's belt slap at high RPM? I'm thinking that he next one I put in gets a spot of mig weld on the bac...

Mega important, like more important than changing the belts in the first place.

I have seen several with loose rivets at belt change time and when they get loose they throw the belt out against the covers, slowly eating away the belt.

I have one aside that is loose as proof for anyone that asks.

The only difference between the red and the silver is what has been written onto the chip, silvers are non-ews after fitting an aftermarket chip.
Programming the ews in the chip is a ball ache so 99% of aftermarket chips use the red label program.

Sounds more likely the o-rings on the lid are farked allowing coolant out the overflow.

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