E30 Zone

I figured it out coz one of them came out easily when I got over there, all working now so ta

ok, no air con - nastry polluting technology anyhow

late 1990 320i touring
it's the same as the one in the photo from previous post. I've looked closely, it seems to be pinned into the frame of the heater housing and not removeable, I suspect the connector now, and it isn't coming off easily so probable corrosion in there

having identified it and found it on my car, is there any way of getting it out?

cheers people

where does the resistor pack live. Is it on the blower unit?

The fan works on full blast but not on the slower settings. It did work until the bad weather so suspect connectors. Where are the connectors and what usually goes wrong?

I haven't seen any 320i tourings after H reg though, only 318 and 316's. I like the 6 cyl engine, and 2.5 is too big for my taste.

it must be an H reg - the last ones are the best!

If you come across a red automatic touring with no rust, then think of me, I won't be able to drive a gearbox forever, MS is vicious on that score, so I am seeking an auto as an alternative. Then I can transfer all my new bits and stay mobile with style. The motability system doen't cater for beemer...

being a touring fan - used to have 2002 tourings - like the cars!

that makes sense, it all happened after the last deluge, compounded by this freeze.
I'm not sure why the one door is locked solid though. I assume I will be able to make it release if I get my hand inside. Not sure what to pull and if I need to take antyhing out.

I researched this. It was a common fault when the cars were new too. I reckon the Airflow meter is unreliable at low revs, and with effects of age, oxidised connectors and/or spurious leaks, and BMW garages setting the car up to run rich, it is sonething to live with. I haven't tried the MAF airflow...

The cold weather has disabled it. Can someone help me, I don't know where the central locking control unit lives. Also, any common faults. The rear drivers door went first then the main drivers door and it all went down. Also the rear passenger door will no longer open. I cannot unlock it on the doo...

It seems maybe getting the spigot bearing out etc is easy. Shouldn't be too hard to convert. Won't need to do it for a while though, maybe never, left leg is good enough. Right leg is bad, got hand controls that side as backup.

I've got 200K on mine, if I've got to fiddle at the flywheel end, may as well get one set up for an auto. I've got a new head, so it would make a nice car even better. Reconned blocks aren't too dear on a car thats gonna live another 20 years.

two days work in times before paraplegia, might take a week or two now.

A good time to fit a reconned block as well then

thanks. Any known issues with the mechanicals? ie, do I need a different prop shaft? Do I nned to change the centre console?

why torx the front bumper, its an allen key, two of, from underneath and it comes off. Quite a large allen key too.

Some may wonder why, but disability prevails. Apart from the basic manual tasks, there seems to be some hookup to the Motronic system required. 1990 E30 320i touring is the car.
Anyhow I need information and any good advice. Finding a good auto as an alternative may be harder then converting.

it's a days work

it's a 1990 touring, is that a 63 litre tank? and does it involve removing the prop shaft to replace it?

I will try leak fix first then, it's very minor at the moment

I need the dope on the fuel filler pipe for a 320i touring of 1990 E30 vintage. How does it fit into the tank? Mine seems to be leaking around the pipe where it enters the fuel tank. Is there a rubber seal or something? Can the pipe be pulled out and replaced? Any other comments about this problem?

Indicators stopped working though hazards work fine. No visible wiring shorts, but there is a short, the fuse blows every time I switch the ignition on. I suspect the flasher unit or the hazard light switrch unit in the fuse box. Anyone know?
Car is an E30 320i touring.

what sort of prices can expect, new or secondhand? Mine's a 320i H reg touring.

Does anyone know what the various diff ratios are for 318i, 320i and 325i E30's please.

Quick note about replacing the fuel pressure regulator. It seems to improve the running, but does not eliminate the kangaroo running problem. Back to recalibration of the AFM time

The new alternator had rubber mounts, and the old one earthed via the mounts. Problem solved by earth wire from alternator to body

M20 alternator.
Since there is no feedback loop that causes the alternator not to generate electricity, then it has to be broke.

Monday night. The ignition light wasn't working eaither, that may be brushes worn out, 200K on clock. It turns very freely, but the charging was fine until Monday. I think I've been missing the ignition light for a bit longer.

It looks new, but that doesn't guarantee it works. The ignition light wouldn't go off if the brushes weren't in contact with the slip ring. B+ has it's own set of diodes separate to D+, so it's probably working inside, but not outputting to the B+ to charge. I reckon trying another new one up the sh...

the battery is new today too

A working alternator would drive that to 14V in both cases. Going to visit GSF tomorrow. They have one in, got my new one from GSF online so some shennanigans to get them to change it for me, and take it off and fit new one at the GSF shop. I really cannot think of any other reason why there would b...

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Re: heater resistor pack

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heater resistor pack

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heater blower

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converting manual to automatic

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fuel tank need help

indicator total failure

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Diff ratios

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