E30 Zone

Every Inspection II.

It's advisable to replace the filter, O ring and gearbox sump seal at the same time. Any Dexron II D is suitable. e.g. Fuchs Titan 3000, Mobil ATF 220 (II D)

With the introduction of hydraulic tappets, the need for any adjustment is therefore eliminated and is not included in the regular Inspection I or II maintenance regime.

You don't need a sealant just evenly, in sequence torque the nuts to 10Nm.

Every second Inpection II, or 4 years, whichever comes sooner, as per BMW directives

There is only one sensor per axle - the front n/s and rear o/s

Just keep squirting carb cleaner in and shaking the whole thing to clean the microswitch inside. Keep repeating it until the fluid runs out clean. Before you reinstall it, smear some silicon grease around the aperture where the throttle spindle sits and that will prevent any future ingress of grime ...

On the photograph the centre electrode looks very worn.

Take the LED board out and check for dry solder joints. If after reheating the solder points the problem still persists, then you can pick up an LED board from a scrapyard.

It equates to 20.887 Imp. mpg

The front OEM pads are Textar T 444.

The tolerance is between 4-6k, so they are fine. They are also within the 10% value fluctuation of each other.

You could check the plugs themselves and the distributor cap/rotor.

You can check the resistance values with them in situ.

No they are very reliable but of course like any seviceable part can fail. The brushes should be evenly worn and have a minimum length of 5mm. What is the alternator output voltage across the battery terminals? Too low a reading can indicate a faulty regulator/alternator and too high a reading can b...

Possibly but check the voltage regulator and the carbon brushes attached to the regulator first.

It's the brown one for the temperature guage

The don't fade they just switch off after about 6-8 seconds or until the engine is started

In the engine bay, under a plastic cover, mounted on the inner n/s wing, adjacent ot the AFM.

There are possibly 3 relays mounted there. The DME is the one nearest the bulkhead after removing the plastic cover.

If you mean the M6 nut to tighten the eccentric, it's 10Nm

Here's a zone link to Inspection I and II schedules: Inspection I: http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=gene&page=gene_insp1.htm Inspection II - http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name=gene&page=gene_insp2.htm As you will see most of the service items are covered in Inspection I with the addition...

Use Dexron II D e.g. Fuchs Titan 3000, Mobil ATF 220, AGIP II D and you need 3 litres.

Yes that is the drain hole.

The 2 upper marks on the dipstick represent a third of a litre.

The spring around the tube is part of the crankcase breather system.

The tube has 2 O rings fitted to the top and bottom.

n/s up to tighten
o/s down to tighten

and vice versa to loosen

An over filled engine can create problems, so "your friend" would be advised to drain some of the oil out to correct the excess amount.

To measure the output of the alternator set the meter to DC voltage and put the red positive probe on the + terminal of the battery and the neg. probe on the neg. battery terminal. With as many consumers switched off, start the engine and you should get a minimum of 13.2V at idle and up to 14.2 at 2...

Hi the diagram Chris provided is for the 20 pin diagnostic socket, with black cover. If you have the earlier 15 pin, red cover socket, the following link shows the relevant pin positions:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/electr ... ights.html

The timer function is activated by pressing the timer button and then the set-res button. The LED in the timer button lights and the timer runs. To stop it you press set-res again.

At 80 mph, motorway journeys, my 320iA returns 30mpg, which equated to about 370 miles per tank filling.

The part you have arrowed is the suppression capacitor, the voltage regulator, is the part above it.

It is the headlight wiper/washer control module (Streuscheiben-reinigungsgeber). It should be screwed into the plastic recess between the windscreen washer and intensive cleaner bottles.

You need to bridge the "female pins" on the diagnostic connector itself, which is near the dipstick.

It should be changed every second Inspection II, or 4 years.

The headlight wiper system is triggered by the normal windscreen wipers and not the intensive wash system. It should operate every 5th time the windsreen washers are used, when the headlights are switched on. The o/s headlight wiper motor is responsible for triggering the headlight washers. Quite of...

The shadowline trim is still available with the part no. you quoted. If you refer to realoem, they are referenced as schwarz=black.

Good man!

Search found 177 matches

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