E30 Zone

I use megasquirt fitted in a Motronic case and a wasted spark unit off a Omega V6, cheap as chips and you can ditch the distributor and AFM. The wasted spark unit is a little large so its hard to hide but thats the only downside.

Be happy to do it - am located north of derby though - ashover. Do you wish to replace the tensioner and waterpump ? pm if interested

Yep, it simply picks up the hot air off the rad blowing over a bi-metalic strip which activates the viscous fluid to tighten up, or something like that. Unfortunately i have found them un-predictable and converted to an electric fan off a 206.

To remove the glass you need to remove the 10mm bolts/ nuts that hold the winder mechanism in place to the door inside skin, you can then slide off the mechanism from the glass, the aluminium clamp type things that bond to the glass stay with the glass, if that makes sense.

Takes about 5 mins

daimlerman wrote:Have you removed the small locking part at the front of the head?
It drops into grooves on the rocker shafts to prevent them turning.

+1 - after a small tap they should slide out easily

If it were me i would get the housing machined to take extra plates and get the ramp angle to 30, you then have a motorsport diff , in effect. Those plates look like they either have had the wrong diff oil in or been used on a track and been getting mega inside wheel spin which is a killer for plate...

I put rx7 4 pots on mine with DS3000, use it for rallying and the pad life is so much better that they have paid for themselves already after 1 year. plus the brakes never give me any doubt after multiple high speed stops downhill. I have upgraded the rears to vented off e46 320D again with ds3000 a...

Hi all, i have been using 320 boxes because they are lighter and have better ratios than 325 box but i broke the aluminium selector on the first one and it looks like i have just broke the second one. I know the 325 box is a stronger bigger box but are the selectors actually stronger / made from bra...

I built a M20B28 first using AFM + Ant chip and the later went MS. With MS i gained 5bhp and more torque cannot remember how much but the engine started, idled and ran much better in traffic / normal driving with Motronic than MS after spending one day on dyno.

Hope this helps

pretty sure they will

Still sounds lik AFM or wiring from it, have you tried simply disconnecting it to see if its the same?

cheers

c

thx guys, looks like the one at the top of the pillar is going to be a problem.

Will hve a go in the morning.

cheers

C

Well, i am a MS fan, just ordered my 2nd kit, yes its tricky if its your first time electronics build but assembled kits are available and the forum support is superb. MS1 with extra s/w on a V3 board is a very good deal. My kit (MS2 V3) was £190 delivered and this one i a going to build direcly int...

Bought some lexan windows for xmas and i cannot fathom how to remove the fixed rear windows in my 2 door. Googling it mentioned there are two 8mm hex nuts on the inside, i have removed one which is half way down the centre door pillar but think the other is behind the roll cage :-( at the top of the...

There are three positions for the TPS, idle, in the middle and WOT. From memory you should have a closed connection for both idle and WOT and no connection for middle position. So of the three wires coming from the TPS you should be able using a continuity tester to establish that you get connection...

That tube you mention is very important for smooth running / idle. If there is a leak after the AFM like this it probably runs like a dog, that goes for splits in the boot before the tb as well. However as ANT says the ecu picks up the closed contact on your tb on WOT and uses a different calculatio...

Its going very rich when you are looking for power, try a std chip in ecu, what cam are you using in the head ? assume its calculated engine power not wheel power?

If you r using MS1, then try com1 and 9600bit/s, if MS2 try com1 and 115200bit/s.

also try looking at "in windows" control panel, system, device manager and check com ports are not showing ! or disabled.

hope this helps

C

I am running a HC M20B28 with 274 cam, BBTB, 6 branch and MS, getting 209bhp and 215 ft/l torque, i can also quicky switch to Motronic using an Ant chip, the difference is around 4/5 bhp as mentioned but i like the MS cos of the diagnostic capability. Was a good day on dyno to set up and not perfect...

I am thinking of going M54B30 route but stripping all electronics and using MS. I thought the only problem was converting the FBW throttle for a regular on, are there any more issues ? Just that there are some comments about it being rather tricky and costly, i really want good power and low weight ...

A spare selector rod from an old gearbox is a perfect fit, done it twice now in about 3 mins. packing the grease in takes the time and of course you end up using your fingers.

Can you give me prices and delivery time for the following components please: 2002 E39 530D

1.Turbo gasket 11622244515
2. Turbo oil feed pipe 11422247915
3. Breather 11127793163
4. Gasket ring x4 07119905041
5. Gasket 11422246091
6. Rubber Seal 11612245439
7. Gaskets 11127793165 and 166

thanks

Thanks - i really have not considered the type of blower and of course i need sustain high power for off road applications so i guess an intercooler is going to be necessary.

Sounds like a Rotrex is the way to go...

will price up a used merc charger for starters then, cheers

After building a M20B28 and getting 209bhp i am thinking about what it would take to get 300bhp for a rally engine, very limited mileage about 2000mls / rebuild, so.. I would like to build a supercharged unit over the winter and want to start sourcing parts from now on. I have a M20B25 bottom end an...

Part number for the later 280X10mm disks is 34211160402

I need a pair, can you confirm price please and stock level for delivery

many thanks

My 2.8 pumps out 209 bhp and 215ftlb torque with std injectors running 13afr no problem.

Makes using std motronic with Ant chip much easier.

Yep, when cold anyway

No its fine just make sure you use new nyloc nuts

I have one fail but i have to confess to doing some mig welding in the vicinity

Not necessarily, itc ould mean the ecu is not getting power or is not getting a cranking signal from the CPS

Try the Turnerstudio beta one, its pretty clever and can detect your cpu and code making connectiona little simpler, the real time dispaly i dont think is as good as Megatune though

I am sure there is a relay that is triggered either by another relay or the ECU. I know what they are on a 325 but not 318. The pump needs to be off when the engine stops for safety reasons.

In Megatune, assuming you have that connected it will tell you if it thinks you are cranking when turning the starter. That would be a good start. If you have not got a laptop or anything see if any of the leds flash when cranking and / or try a meter on the coil neg to see if it is going high and l...

It will start if you just disconnect it but will then run very rich from then on. It could be a number of things , anything on the spark side, plugs rotor arm, cap, leads or it could be the injectors needing a good clean.

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