E30 Zone

No, you can try just tapping them in situ from above - do this before attempting to remove any. With a bit of luck, it will unseize itself and once the fuel starts flowing, it should clean itself.

Perhaps try removing it, leaving it connected to the loom with some fuel feed and place it to spray into a jar with the engine running, to check the spray pattern (should be an even conical shape).

I would stick to standard injectors unless the engine's heavily modified.

Good work. Ideally, use a multimeter to check for the HT lead(s) resistance and injector impedance. If you're using coil packs, try swapping them over between a pair of cylinders and see if the fault gets transferred...

Perhaps try refitting the old ignition parts, if you still have them - perhaps there's a fault with the new ones... I saw this on an E39 forum: "Most probably a vac leak somewhere. Check all the pipe work on the diags below. You can try running with the MAF disconnected briefly. The car should set i...

Have you ever seen/heard the engine running properly (i.e., when fitted in the donor car), prior to installing it?

The Wiki guide may be of some help:
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.p ... oubleshoot

May help to state which type of wheels you want, i.e. just standard steelies or something more specific...

Probably a BMW breakers - there's quite a few of them dotted about the country. Or you could place a wanted ad in the parts section...

Car looks great, though I would perhaps improve the air filter, maybe by going with the standard airbox but with a K&N panel filter.

Is the whole of that house actually painted like that?!

Yes, would make for a very interesting conversion...

Thought you may be interested to know, the Triumph Rocket 3 motorbike has a 2.5-litre 3-cylinder engine with almost identical power and torque that an E30 325i had back in the day!

https://www.triumphmotorcycles.co.uk/mo ... t-3/engine

Nice, must be a pretty sweet ride, I imagine.

140,000 miles is very low, considering the age. I currently have a 2009 Abarth Grande Punto on just under that.

Are those real Alpina wheels or replicas? Whichever, they suit it nicely. I presume you managed to get the new diff fitted in the end?

Hi Ratch,
Great to hear from you again, and nice to see you still have your 318is from way back (Nov 1997, so nearly 28 years - that's good going !) What mileage has it now covered?

Good idea, or even Megasquirt or similar.

A 1985 car would normally be on an A- or B-plate; D-reg was c.1986/7.

And does it have an FPR fitted now?

riber3 wrote: ↑
Sun Feb 23, 2025 2:07 pm
The car was running fine before I changed the pump and eliminated the fuel pressure regulator.

I'd suggest ensuring these items are looked at again - does it even have an FPR fitted now?

Useful to know - thanks for posting. I saw a similar version t'other day when researching this, but it was in German! Do you still own this immaculate example?

The bit that looks like an inch or so long tube sticking out in the centre of the screen in the second video - perhaps there's supposed to be a breather hose attached?

Yes, at least you've now had it running for a few seconds and it sounded quite healthy. What is what appears to be a half inch or so diameter inlet/outlet pipe under the rubber hose, and what is the red cap for?

Good going, but I would have been tempted at that point (at the end of the second video) to inject some more Easy-start in the inlet manifold then replace that pipe prior to having another go...

Perhaps try getting someone to rev it while you spray in Easy Start - perhaps it just needs to 'clear it's throat'...

Also, I take it you have the in and out fuel pipes and fuel filter on the correct way round?

What happens when you start it and try revving it?

Indeed, that would explain it - though it may be repairable still...

Ah, good for Zoners to know about - thanks.

As flybynite said in your Intelligent Battery Chargers thread: "I would guess that if you opened your old one (ECU) it would simply be an old failed component, dry solder joint or a bit of moisture corrosion".

As per the advert, £40 posted within the UK and Northern Ireland, or £45 posted to Southern Ireland.

Good to hear that, Ted! May I ask, where did you find the ECU in the end?

It shouldn't really make any difference, assuming the "intelligent" battery charger does what it's supposed to...

But if your car is going to be off the road for some time, it's wise to disconnect the battery anyway. Beware though, that doing this could adversely affect the SI board batteries.

By "0/L ohms" do you mean it fluctuates between 0 and infinite reading? Perhaps try running a steady +12V to that pin 16 and see what happens...

Cool, glad to be of help. There's also D&T Wise in the same area.
https://www.facebook.com/dtwise123/

Does it still start and run only for 10 seconds?

If so, a possible cause could be a soft perished rubber fuel hose that contracts causing a blockage, or maybe you need to remove the fuel filler cap as the venting may be blocked, causing excess vacuum in the fuel tank...

Yes, I've owned such a Chinese pocket scope for a few years and it's still working!

Seeing as you're in SE London, you could try giving the likes of BM Sport in Bexleyheath a shout: https://www.facebook.com/bmsport/?locale=en_GB

No problem.

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