E30 Zone

we raced on the wilwood kit, superb stuff for the money, thought it was too cheap to work to be honest but was amazed, nearly as good as AP's but 1/4 of the price, highly recommended

4 hr drive there, 2 hrs on track, 4 hrs back, no thanks!

Alot of people don't, especially those with sequential boxes,

BTB make the best exhaust for a 325

The E30 is the perfect car to learn in, not huge costs involved (in motorsport terms), easy to maintain and cheap to repair, also handle superbly well and above all are great fun, having owned and rebuilt a class winning Kumho E30, i'd say it's definitely cheaper to buy a ready prepped car, a better...

i use 6mm sandwich plate CF, nice and strong and raised up 2" in line with the accelarator

I was sharing a garage with a certain BTCC driver last weekend and he was telling me that he was double de clutching as he had broken a gear, not many do, I never have but it is certainly better mechanically and got him to the end and in 2nd place

If it's on track then you want about 1mm toe in on the rear and 1-2mm toe out on the front, will help heat tyres quicker and sharpen turn in, might induce mid corner understeer a tad though but it's what most racers run

As mentioned (South African) radiator is the way to go, expensive but sorted our overheating issues out, its also worth boxing in the rad, alot of air never touches it so boxing in really maximises the air intake

330mm I found to be perfect

I presume these prices are for flat panels not thermoformed? It is good kit, just supplied a few of their kits and have some lovely grey smoked ones going into my E36 as I write

Glad I could help mate, they need to go on pins though are they're designed to lose weight and keeping the brackets and stuff is just uneccessary.

I contacted the guys from centralblast cleaning about a respray, they wanted me to drive 2 hours out of my way before even giving me an indication of the likely costs, suffice to say my car is being resprayed elsewhere

E30_tracker wrote:
northloop wrote:James.
Im wondering whether to put the new roof on or wait until the cage is in.

James

Definitely cage it 1st, if you were building from a shell then this would be the right way to do it anyway

northloop wrote:If you join the northloop forum and mention our name when you book then you get a 5% discount with www.circuit-days.co.uk

Gary

I did and they do, great stuff

I used to run 1155 and 1166 on the racer on standard discs but with Castrol SRF, no problems whatsoever, superb pads

Northloop hit the nail on the head, buy cheap buy twice, we're all on budgets but the shocks you choose will have a huge impact on your performance when racing, consider how much money you are actually spending to be out there and then put Ã‚£560 into the equation and i think you'll find it's a frac...

Bad idea, what do you not have a bulkhead or something, much easier to refit some CF sheet than move it all if that is the case

Depends if you want proper motorsport quality perspex that is thermoformed and cut to size, if you don't then any old crap will do!

No not half the weight, more like an extra 20% saving but they are obviously alot stronger, if you need top change panels alot then GRP is the way to go but most I know get a season out of them so go for CF

It's all on the website

my old E30 never ran PAS, simply didn't need it, it was perfectly fine without and it does have alot more feel than the assisted racks, i've also been told that running a PAS rack without the PAS is a no no on track

I ran the E30 without ABS and with the Wilwood 4 pots and its perfectly ok without, in fact i couldn't get the fronts to lock and I was stamping on them coming into Goddards at Doni from about 115-120, amazed me how good they are. Can an E36 system be fitted, really not sure but I know that they can...

2.7, carbs , 304 cam with balanced and knife edged crank and a few other lightweight internals, 950Kgs on Moton with slicks, would be a beast and hell of a laugh

Jimmy, I might be interested in a date or 2, sent you an email, would be good to get back into an E30, how competitive is it, what no. was it last season?

I ran the Wilwood kit on our old E30 race car, in fact the current owner still uses them, when I 1st got them I thought they looked cheap but having tested them i was amazed how good they are for the money, stunning value and I would highly recommend them, wouldn't touch Hi Spec, garbage IMO, Wilwoo...

who's running the day on the 31st?

I've never seen one car with an infill panel that never looked like it had an infill panel, most look bloody awful and still have the excess weight above your head, if you can do it tidy for Ã‚£250 then fair enough but having seen and felt the difference it made to out racer, i would always go the r...

I get a guy down the road to make them for me or I buy them in from various ali fabricators, one that has also been mentioned on here, if you're interested email me and I'll do a deal as I have 2 of the pumps and a filter in stock, 2L one has been removed! winkeye Suprised the PBMW regs didn't allow...

I used to run a lever type and they are ok for the money, but not enough adjustment or effective enough IMO for what I needed, part of the reason why I changed it all, i now run an SPA digital bias gauge next to the adjuster and it tells me exactly what the split is, a lever will not do that so alth...

passed you a few weeks ago Ian up by the Bridgend outlet with the car on the trailer, just sent you an email mate

Sometimes reskinning is actually alot easier especially if you have to pay for labour, it also saves quite alot of weight from the worst place you could possibly have it, part of the reason why some might recommend skinning it instead, if you're handy with a welder then a skin is Ã‚£165, paint is al...

Some of the poly kits really are crap and fit badly and the better kits are thermoformed to fit perfectly, weight saving is enough to make a difference but IMO the main benefit is safety, perspex doesn't shatter on impact! P4P are a quality company, part of the reason why I am a distributor!

Personally I would do the brakes and spend the rest on getting out there, you can get really caught up in the track modifying thing and a well driven car will ALWAYS be faster than a car with more power, power is the las think you need

Can't recommend Leda enough, cracking bit of kit for the money, you can buy adjustable camber/caster rear bushes that would probably sort that out

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Re: performance BMW Mag, brands track evening 11/4

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Re: LIGHTWEIGHT EXHAUST 325i ??

Re: production champ a good start?

Re: Floor of a track / race car

Re: Double Clutching

Re: tracking/toe settings for the track?

Re: Cooling a 325

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Re: Snetterton 20th Jan

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