Rear wheel bearing replacement
Pop off the center cap of the wheel to expose the nut for the driveshaft end.
You can see the lock plate which keeps the nut from backing off.
Pound and pry the lock plate with a screwdriver and hammer or pair plyers. Pry the lock plate out
Put the wheel back on with a couple of bolts and set the car back on the ground. Don't try to remove the stub axle nut with the car on jack stands. The nut will probably require obscene amounts of torque to remove.
After you remove the nut, jack up and support the car and remove the wheel.
Remove the brakes. Use a 7mm hex bit to remove the calliper guide bolts and remove the calliper. Remove the carrier bolts with a 19mm socket. Remove the disc screw with a 5mm hex bit.
Loosen the 6 drive-shaft bolts with an 8mm hex bit.
Gently push the drive-shaft end out of the hub towards the inside of the car. Don't damage the splines or threads with an errant hammer blow. You might want to protect the threads with the old nut.
You might have to unbolt the bottom end of the shock for easier access not always needed to do so.
Remove the circlip with circlip pliers. You might find a flat head screwdriver useful for keeping the ring from jumping back into its groove.
The inner bearing race usually stays with the flange as you hit it out. I used a bearing separator and a puller to remove the hub and bearing.
Your hub is free of the inner bearing and ready for some cleaning. If you don't have a suitable puller, you can always cut it off with a grinder or drimmel which i have done in the past.
I had to hammer out the outer part of the bearing because it was so badly damaged.
I used a bearing puller to install the new bearing and a bit of a hammer with a block of wood and it was on.
Getting ready to refit the drive flange you need to be careful reinstalling it use plenty of grease and make sure you do not not the new bearing inner races out.
The fitting of the drive-shaft and the brakes is the same as the removal this is a good time to check rear brakes.
