TechII kit off, which product to rust proof?
Moderator: martauto
Chaps, I've been thinking about removing the TechII kit from my car for inspection/clean/wax and reading Barry's thread gave me the kick up the arse to get on with it.
Once the kit is off I'm going to thorougly clean and degrease everything, what is the best clear brushable wax type product to paint onto everything under the TechII kit?
Ta.
Once the kit is off I'm going to thorougly clean and degrease everything, what is the best clear brushable wax type product to paint onto everything under the TechII kit?
Ta.
I'd forgotten about those guys. I've checked their site, the stuff looks good. It should be for the pricegjj107 wrote:try looking up a firm called bilthamber they have website and consistently win awards in the classic car press .i have used there s50 wax and the autobalm paint wax its great stuff
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have you got a link to barry's thread I need to do this badly as driving my tech2 sport all throughg winter
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dimebag_from_hell
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Surely there isn't much to beat clear wax oil, heated up slightly so it can be applied easier?

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dimebag_from_hell
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But because Waxoyl is older/cheaper, does that make it any less of a product?Blitz wrote:BiltHamber is great. Waxoyl is old hat.
I know plenty of people who wouldn't use anything else.

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goosiegander
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My first thought would be clear waxoil and a good coat, effectively you wish to create a barrier between the surface of the panel and the kit which will not be moisture/crap permeable,
No need to reinvent the wheel here -just come up with a planned maintenance system that will give all areas of the car an adequate layer of protection
Have you cleaned after the weekend's adventure yet?

No need to reinvent the wheel here -just come up with a planned maintenance system that will give all areas of the car an adequate layer of protection
Have you cleaned after the weekend's adventure yet?
The key is to have a clean base to start with. By clean i mean spotless as there is nothing worse than slapping something over wet mud/dirt/rust.
I can not emphasize this enough!
There is nothing wrong with wax oil, clear is preferable. Its a proven product that has been used for years to good effect. Anyone who knocks it obviously hasn't used it!
I use clear wax oil and BMW's own cavity wax in aerosol and gun applied format for various places on the car.
I can not emphasize this enough!
There is nothing wrong with wax oil, clear is preferable. Its a proven product that has been used for years to good effect. Anyone who knocks it obviously hasn't used it!
I use clear wax oil and BMW's own cavity wax in aerosol and gun applied format for various places on the car.
I stopped at a jetwash on the way home to blast the worst of the filth off, I haven't cleaned it properly yet. It was well worth getting it dirty.goosiegander wrote:My first thought would be clear waxoil and a good coat, effectively you wish to create a barrier between the surface of the panel and the kit which will not be moisture/crap permeable,
No need to reinvent the wheel here -just come up with a planned maintenance system that will give all areas of the car an adequate layer of protection
Have you cleaned after the weekend's adventure yet?
Clear waxoil it is then.
Trust me Barry, it'll be clean. I've stocked up on degreaser, TFR, brake cleaner and some good brushes.bss325i wrote:The key is to have a clean base to start with. By clean i mean spotless as there is nothing worse than slapping something over wet mud/dirt/rust.
I can not emphasize this enough!
There is nothing wrong with wax oil, clear is preferable. Its a proven product that has been used for years to good effect. Anyone who knocks it obviously hasn't used it!
I use clear wax oil and BMW's own cavity wax in aerosol and gun applied format for various places on the car.
The underneath of the car has been done before but in the black waxoil, I may strip this off and go with the clear instead.
Tooth and nail brushes work best on the arch lips.
+1 on clear wax oil.
As Barry quite righty says the most important thing is to apply it to clean dry surface.
Also reapplying it on a regular basis is good practice.
As Barry quite righty says the most important thing is to apply it to clean dry surface.
Also reapplying it on a regular basis is good practice.

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Topblag
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get the sprayer pack and make sure you place the waxoyl can in hot water for a while to thin it out before you use it, if you don't I'm told that it blocks up the nozzles.
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practical classics mag are runing a test on all rust proof methods at the moment.thay have completely paint stripped an old sierra and have painted strips of differant products over the car and driven it throughtout the winter the results should be out in next months issue might even be on there website already if any of you good folks are interested
here's a link Dan:
http://www.waxoylrustproofing.co.uk/wax ... oofing.php
and this is good for treating rust:
http://www.fertan.co.uk/
http://www.waxoylrustproofing.co.uk/wax ... oofing.php
and this is good for treating rust:
http://www.fertan.co.uk/

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[quote="bss325i"]
Get a f* grip,we are talking about 20+yr.old sub £10k cars here,NOT the crown jewels!
For any surface rust, the best stuff to use is Jenolite. I used it on mine while doing the resto. Really good stuff. Then waxoyl or whavever on top.
yep, nice and hot for injecting into sills and box sections so it can run between pannel joints. just make sure any drain holes can still do their job.Topblag wrote:get the sprayer pack and make sure you place the waxoyl can in hot water for a while to thin it out before you use it, if you don't I'm told that it blocks up the nozzles.
if you're wanting to brush it on anywhere you may want to leave it cold so its thicker and easier to apply.
cheers,
harry
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