I'm getting the urge to sort out my non-working air-con.
How should I go about working out whether it's an electrical fault or just needs re-gassing without spending any money?
The blue switch lights up but no cool air.
Should I just bring it to Kwik-fit or somewhere similar to get it tested? Perhaps the seals have gone, in which case will they be able to fix it?
where can I go to get R24 gas?
Sorry for all the questions but I have searched the forum and can't find definitive answers.
Evaluating air-con issues
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daimlerman
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http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... ic&t=67589
Have a munch through this link,Barry is a very knowledgeable guy who is fitting air-con at the moment.
Another thread to hunt out would be Simon13's Alpina resto,he's fitting air-con as well...
Have a munch through this link,Barry is a very knowledgeable guy who is fitting air-con at the moment.
Another thread to hunt out would be Simon13's Alpina resto,he's fitting air-con as well...
Youth is wasted on the young.
it will be Winter by the time I've finished reading that.
.Had a look at the thread. It seems more related to retro-fitting as opposed to sorting out the already existant air-con.
Any suggestions on troubleshooting my system?
Come on folks, there's a Niagara of sweat pouring down my nutsack here
.
Any suggestions on troubleshooting my system?
Come on folks, there's a Niagara of sweat pouring down my nutsack here
.
The most common problems with Air con not working are no refrigerant in the system, seized fan, faulty fan speed resistor and knackered compressor/compressor cluctch.
Has your car been converted to run on R134a refrgerant instead of R12? Couple of ways to check are by looking at the valves to see if they have the later types fitted and also by looking at the dryer/receiver (located between the drivers RHD headlight and the screen wash tank) as this will have a lable on it with R134a.
If there is no refrigerant in the system then there will be a leak. 99.9% of the time when someone advertises a car for sale and states in the ad, "A/C just need a regas", will need more than just that!
One of the most common places for refrigerant to leak are from the condensor as its in front of the coolant rad and debris can get through the grills and put a hole in it. Another way a condensor can fail is through corosion and this is common on 20+ year old E30's.
The other common place refrigerant can leak is from the O-ring type seals on the pipe joins as these can dry out over time more so through lack of use of the A/C system.
First thing i would do to start diagnosing the system is remove front grills and try to rotate the electric fan to see if its seized. While there take a look at the condensor so look for signs of damage and corrosion.
If both of these are ok and the system has been converted to R134a the try and get it re gassed by someone with the correct equipment and ask them to put dye into the system and check for leaks.
Most of the time with E30's, they need converting to R134a, and new condensor, and all the O-ring type pipe seals replacing as a minimum.
Has your car been converted to run on R134a refrgerant instead of R12? Couple of ways to check are by looking at the valves to see if they have the later types fitted and also by looking at the dryer/receiver (located between the drivers RHD headlight and the screen wash tank) as this will have a lable on it with R134a.
If there is no refrigerant in the system then there will be a leak. 99.9% of the time when someone advertises a car for sale and states in the ad, "A/C just need a regas", will need more than just that!
One of the most common places for refrigerant to leak are from the condensor as its in front of the coolant rad and debris can get through the grills and put a hole in it. Another way a condensor can fail is through corosion and this is common on 20+ year old E30's.
The other common place refrigerant can leak is from the O-ring type seals on the pipe joins as these can dry out over time more so through lack of use of the A/C system.
First thing i would do to start diagnosing the system is remove front grills and try to rotate the electric fan to see if its seized. While there take a look at the condensor so look for signs of damage and corrosion.
If both of these are ok and the system has been converted to R134a the try and get it re gassed by someone with the correct equipment and ask them to put dye into the system and check for leaks.
Most of the time with E30's, they need converting to R134a, and new condensor, and all the O-ring type pipe seals replacing as a minimum.
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Paul325ITouring
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Where abouts are you?
Some good advice there Barry, thanks. I'd be surprised if it had been converted but there are some threads that suggest that R24 is a direct replacement for R12. No idea where I could find some though.
Bromley in Kent.Paul325ITouring wrote:Where abouts are you?
R134a is the replacement for R12.
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Paul325ITouring
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Rs24 was a drop in gas, which hard to get hold of you could try a place like B O C or H R P, they feal with gas for air con, the rs 24 used the normal fitting on the lines on the car where you put the gas in. Have you got the air gauages?
When converting from R12 to R134a on an E30, you dont need to convert the whole system. All thats replaced is the drier/receiver, pressure switch and the valves.
Heres a pic.
Heres a pic.
Wont be able to pick up gas from BOC without a yearly rental contract.
Wont be able to pick up gas from HRP without an F Gas cert.
In the long run you are probably better of converting the system to R134a. RS24 is expensive and not many people hold it. And if you do have a leak and just drop in a charge of RS24 you'll soon lose it again. Might aswell pull it apart, fit the new R134a bits, have it leak tested and gassed up properly by a friendly local mechanic and you'll be set up for many more years of trouble free cool runnings.
Chris
Wont be able to pick up gas from HRP without an F Gas cert.
In the long run you are probably better of converting the system to R134a. RS24 is expensive and not many people hold it. And if you do have a leak and just drop in a charge of RS24 you'll soon lose it again. Might aswell pull it apart, fit the new R134a bits, have it leak tested and gassed up properly by a friendly local mechanic and you'll be set up for many more years of trouble free cool runnings.
Chris
The kit is available from BMW and is around £115, have a look through the geniune section someone recently asked this question.
Rancheo I was in the same boat as you mate with none working aircon. When I started investigating my fan had seized and the condesor had seen better days. I was lucky and managed to find a second completeish AC system that had very recently been converted to R134a and had a brand new condensor.
I went to Kwikfit as they recharge the oil, leak test and gas the whole system for £49.. the best bit is that if they can't get the temp down by 10deg there is no charge. I was getting quotes of £60+ with other aircon places and I'd guess you'd pay even if they weren't succesful
Barry is there any way to test the clutch on the compressor when it's not fitted?
Charlie
Rancheo I was in the same boat as you mate with none working aircon. When I started investigating my fan had seized and the condesor had seen better days. I was lucky and managed to find a second completeish AC system that had very recently been converted to R134a and had a brand new condensor.
I went to Kwikfit as they recharge the oil, leak test and gas the whole system for £49.. the best bit is that if they can't get the temp down by 10deg there is no charge. I was getting quotes of £60+ with other aircon places and I'd guess you'd pay even if they weren't succesful
Barry is there any way to test the clutch on the compressor when it's not fitted?
Charlie
BMW E30 344i track car 
BMW F31 335d xdrive
BMW F31 335d xdrive
charliE30, put a 12v to the live termial and see if it engages, they can be noisey in operation though but this test wont tell if it will be noisey or not, just if it engages.
New condensors are available from euro car parts for about £70, £250+ from BMW.
New electric fans are available from euros as well, about £60-70.
If i was trying to get an old R12 non working system to work, i would replace all the seals, new condensor and R134a conversion kit.
Also note, dont leave the drier receiver exposed as moisture in the air will kill it in several hours.
New condensors are available from euro car parts for about £70, £250+ from BMW.
New electric fans are available from euros as well, about £60-70.
If i was trying to get an old R12 non working system to work, i would replace all the seals, new condensor and R134a conversion kit.
Also note, dont leave the drier receiver exposed as moisture in the air will kill it in several hours.
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Ant
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FX 56 will work as well as RS24 in an R12 system, all 3 have better cooling capacity than R134a for a higher duty cycle ( colder A/C FTW )
Find your local Jag or RR specialist, they will have all you require to get gasses up and running again. Decent yank specialist will also have all thats required.
No need to downgrade to R134a IMHO
whatever you decide, a new filter/drier is a must, change of oil in the compressor strongly recommended and NEW O'rings on all the mechanical connections.
test with OFN, Vacuum to remove all moisture and regas..
Cool
Find your local Jag or RR specialist, they will have all you require to get gasses up and running again. Decent yank specialist will also have all thats required.
No need to downgrade to R134a IMHO
whatever you decide, a new filter/drier is a must, change of oil in the compressor strongly recommended and NEW O'rings on all the mechanical connections.
test with OFN, Vacuum to remove all moisture and regas..
Cool
Product Development and Endurance for Delphi.
Original performance chips, original works not unlicensed copies
Email FTW
Original performance chips, original works not unlicensed copies
Email FTWHmmn!! Interesting. The fan appears to be working fine so that might well be the way to go.
On a side note, just for the hell of it I decided to switch on the A/C buttons as I was driving along today. When I pressed the lower one (circulation?) it blew a load of white crap into my face momentarily blinding me.
What's that all about? Some sort of James Bond anti-theft device?
On a side note, just for the hell of it I decided to switch on the A/C buttons as I was driving along today. When I pressed the lower one (circulation?) it blew a load of white crap into my face momentarily blinding me.
What's that all about? Some sort of James Bond anti-theft device?