AlpineAde's 325i (Update NOV '11)

[AlpineAde]

Yes, I supplied valve springs (I used the springs from Schrick). That price included everything that needed doing: all testing, clean and refacing, seats, valves, new guides, flow testing, the lot...the head is now "as new". Rockers were fine and there was plenty of meat on the valves. The head has been off previously (when the car was with the previous owner) and I suspect that some components were replaced then as everything was very, very good...except for the valve guides.

Mind you, the total cost, including labour and the replacing of attendant parts and sundries (head bolts, VRS kit, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, etc., etc.) adds up. The TOTAL job will generally set you back around $2K. Start doing a few extra things and you're at around $2400. Go completely bonkers and really work the crap out of the head (oversize valves, new hi-performance rockers, new shafts, etc., etc.) and you'll push up the price even more.

It all depends on the initial condition and what you want in terms of performance. Mine is on the quite mild side of things. I gave my mechanic carte blanche on the job: if anything needs replacing, anything at all, then replace it. I guess it was lucky for me that the head was nice and sound to start with.

[m_jermyn]

Yeah when I do mine I will be providing everything so I only need machining done. I will have 2 complete sets of rockers to choose from so I should find 12 good ones out of 24 I will just use the original 325i double valve springs.

Like I said I will just require machining.

I am about to purchase everything I need to build the entire motor back to new. Cant wait getting real excited.

Mike

[AlpineAde]

It will cost you well under a grand then. It will simply be a case of dropping the head off at the reco place and picking it up when it's done. As long as it doesn't need any welding you'll be fine.

[AlpineAde]

Well, we had an issue with the cam. It needed to be cleaned up and it only came back today. Good as gold, though, so that's all that counts.

[AlpineAde]

Well, it's been a while since the car has been home but it finally arrived back today!

Aside from the cam, valve springs and the new injectors we had the following bits ordered for work needed:

VRS Kit
Head bolts
Timing belt
Cambelt Tensioner bearing
Cambelt Tensioner spring
Cam seal and Dist. seal
O-Ring M20 camshaft end flange
Crank Seal
Gasket lower timing cover
Oil filter
& the usual accessories and fluids attendant to a service II inspection....

So, a big job.

The dilemma arose when choosing the injectors, however: standard gave the car a beautiful idle. Amazing! Perhaps the MAF needed the uprated cam? Who can say? Performance, incredibly smooth...the car didn't miss a beat and runs perfectly. The impression with the cam and other mods, including the MAF is one of seamless urge. Very, very nice. The uprated injectors, however, were a slightly different story. A slightly lumpy idle and when cold, a sense of a slight miss...a bit odd. Once warmed up, though, the sense of the car "coming on cam" is much stronger than with the stock injectors. Between 3500-4000rpm the car really springs to life and feels like a traditional "cammed" car. Previously, The MAF had softened power delivery a little and had made the car less "stepped" in its power delivery. With the larger injectors fitted this softened delivery has gone and it feels a lot more aggressive when the revs rise.

So, the dilemma: keep the standard injectors and save the larger new ones for when the War chip is fitted? Or go for the new ones straight away and just live with the slightly lumpy idle? The car was judged to feel livelier with the new ones ~ so we kept 'em in.

Note: the exhaust note has definitely changed. I don't know why but it has.

Note addendum: the 272 cam is a great choice for a street driven car that will see the track a few times a year. It doesn't compromise drivability in any way. I don't feel any loss in performance below 3500rpm and the car is a fair bit peppier in power delivery above. Of course, the final words on the top end rebuild will come on the dyno ~ so we'll see.

Observation: now that the engine has essentially new seals I am considering a move to Motul oil. I've been wary of synthetic oil previously but I am considering the switch now.

[AlpineAde]

So, the car got back to the track ~ finally!

This footage is from a Driver Dynamics trackday held at Sandown, here in very bloody hot Melbourne. The temperature was in the mid 30s (35 ºC = 95 ºF) so it made for a tough day....

Bumper cam....

[youtube][/youtube]

Given that it is the GoPro, this one should be watched at 480p.

And an in-car view:

[youtube][/youtube]

You have a choice of 360, 480 and 720 for your viewing "pleasure" LOL! It's rather pedestrian.

These are the accompanying comments:

"The last session of the Driver Dynamics day for me, late in the proceedings ~ very, very hot indeed. The car is a 1989 BMW E30 325i sedan and the camera used was an Aiptek (very cheap ~ about $150 AUD) mounted via sticky pod on the rear window. Grip wasn't great and I was battling a helmet that had managed to lose a part of itself LOL! Overall, I don't think the temperature was doing anyone any favours in terms of grip, power or keeping things cool. Still, a fun day and it was good to get the old thing out on track again. I found my concentration wandering a bit in this session and it was probably best to pack it in when I did. Always better to be safe in these situations than sorry later on.

Overall, the car behaved very well, though tyres did prove to be an issue and given the temperature it developed a small amount of coolant weeping through a tired hose to the expansion tank. Coolant level was fine, though, so no biggie. Replace the tired old hose with new OEM and all will be right for next time!"

It was a full field, 45 cars in 3 groups ~ though I'm buggered if I know why an Ariel Atom was put in our group. Lots of great machinery, a GT3, M cars (an M5, M6 and a beautiful M3 CSL that had an off and tore the front splitter off the car), a few very tasty Euros, and a load of big horsepower V8s and Japanese turbo jobbies.

Hope you like the vids....

[Simon13]

Stock injectors are good for 220bhp in a 2.7! I don't see why a 2.5 needs bigger injectors imo

I've got a schrick 284/272 in my 2.7 it idles a bit rough and has a fair kick 3500rpm. I've always wondered what the 272/272 is like. I might use it in my 2door engine to retain more low end grunt

what sort of power is this 2.5 running now?

[AlpineAde]

I suppose so, maybe... if you're prepared to max the absolute hell out of their duty cycle. (Source: http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm ) The ones I've got now give me plenty of headroom if I want to go for a bigger capacity later on and the bonus is that Miller have a map specifically tweaked for the WAR chip/MAF combo using these injectors. I'll grab that when I get around to installing the chip and see how it goes.

The 272 cam is a good streetable choice I reckon. I don't really notice any tangible drop off in torque from stock lower down in the rev range and the benefit of the cam from 3500-4000rpm is felt quite strongly (though not as much as you would find with yours of course). Idle on stock management is perfect with the 272. Spot on, no roughness at all. Might be worth a crack?

I haven't had the car back on the dyno since the top end rebuild, so I'm not sure what sort of power it's making. I wouldn't imagine it would be anything fantastic as all I've done is pretty mild stuff, but once we get a proper map with the WAR chip it should be reasonable.

[m_jermyn]

Ade I love the bumper cam mate, its like playing gran tourismo..

[AlpineAde]

Cheers! There's a new version of the GoPro out that does hi-def. I wouldn't mind getting it actually. There is also a rumour that GoPro will do a proper mic for it...so better sound. That would be awesome. I would then relegate my present one to something like a "foot-cam" or somesuch.

[AlpineAde]

Hi, guys! Time for another update in the never-ending journey that is Ade's E30 325i sedan.

Recently, as you may recall, I suffered an iffy temperature issue at the tail end of a track day. We thought we solved it by replacing a dodgy clamp but alas! alack! We didn't. It just got worse ~ and the car would become extremely hot in day to day driving. It ended with me parking the car at home because the temperature gauge was showing 3/4s. Not good. I was running the E30 on maximum heater (gas mark 4 ) at maximum speed and still was not getting anything in terms of cooling. I feared something catastrophic...but it all worked out in the end.

My fan clutch has been lazy for a while and it had just become very lazy. Couple that with a temperature gauge that decided to start playing funny buggers and you can see where this is heading....

Both in tandem led to false readings (we checked with a temp gun and the temps were spot on) and we solved the problem by fitting a different temperature gauge, replacing the fan clutch with a lovely new unit (should be right for another 20 years), and whacking a new thermostat in. The car now shows temperature on the dial that is more in keeping with the temperatures that the car is actually putting out. I must say I am very pleased.

To celebrate my pleasedness (LOL!) I purchased one of these:



A 16oz RK2 UUC Motorwerks shift knob (mine's on the left). What an awesome upgrade on the standard BMW item. The extra weight adds a very precise, rifle-like, action to the shift and complements the EVO3 short-shifter beautifully. This should be compulsory for all short-shifters, I reckon. Shifting is now just a matter of "snick-snick-snick", no effort, very fast, very accurate and a complete pleasure to use. They are not cheap but, boy!, are they worth it!

[AlpineAde]

Just another little update of something in the works....

I've decided to go with these:



These are the UUC Sway Barbarians, consisting of a 22mm front and 19mm adjustable rear bar. I've a great fondness for the company's products and I especially like these as they are a complete "kit", with polyurethane bushes, uprated link components and added reinforcement. I was considering Eibach and H&R but the "complete solution" approach won me over.

These are the technical details:

The SwayBarbarian for the E30 3-series offers a unique set of technical features, including:

* Powdercoated chromoly steel bar material.
* Precision-cut adjustable ends.
* Fixed-position front mounting, 3-position adjustable rear mounting.
* Positive-stop rear bushing guides to ensure bar stays in place.
* Race-spec spherical bearing adjustable front and rear end links for precision operation
and tuning for height and corner balancing.
* Urethane bushings, hardware kit, and lubrication included.
* Complete E30 bracket reinforcement kit included.

[AlpineAde]

http://forums.eurocca.net/showthread.ph ... -upgrading...

Build thread.

If you're interested, follow it up here. Thanks!

[m_jermyn]

That looks nice Ade... Where you get them from?

[AlpineAde]

I haven't got them yet, just penciled in an order.

BM Autowerks here in Melbourne is a UUC dealer so I order through them. Top blokes!

[AlpineAde]

Ah! A spanner has appeared in my E30 works....

I noticed recently a strange rubbing/chirping sound coming from the front of the car. I thought it might have been a brake issue, as it manifested when slowing the car, but it appeared under any slowing force (braking, heavily dropped dropped throttle) that moved the weight to the front of the car. Talking the car in for diagnosis, it appears that my engine mounts have failed. The entire assembly moves forward under weight transfer. Not good. Given the limited space (bigger radiator) it is very easy to imagine the fan cutting a swathe through the radiator if left unchecked.

No matter, though, I'm on it! Ade to the rescue of his old E30!

I've just ordered these:



From Turner Motorsport:

"E30 325e/i HD Motor Mount kit (pair)
Part #: E30325MMKIT
Applications: 1984 - 1991 (E30)
WARNING - If you take your E30 325 to the track for drivers schools, races and or auto crosses your motor mounts WILL break..its just a matter of time. When they break if your car is a 1984 to 1987 your alternator will cut your lower radiator hose and your day will be done. Fixed the problem with our beautifully crafted aluminum re-enforcement kit. The kit include two new heavy duty motor mounts and four aluminum cups.
Price: $200.50
Sale Price: $169.95
Savings: $30.55"

Should be good!

It would seem that 20+ year old mounts don't like extreme braking and are prone to failure ~ which mine have done. These new units should see me right.

[m_jermyn]

Looking nice Ade...

[AlpineAde]

Getting there, mate. The last track day killed 'em off. So I noticed the noise pretty quickly and kept the car to minimum use until it was figured what was going on. It'll all be fixed in the next week or two.

I'll make sure to get some pics.

[AussieM20]

Getting there, mate. The last track day killed 'em off. So I noticed the noise pretty quickly and kept the car to minimum use until it was figured what was going on. It'll all be fixed in the next week or two.

I'll make sure to get some pics.

Hello Ade,

My understanding is that you can use E36 6 cyl engine mounts that are very strong in an E30, or am i wrong? That is what i was going to do with mine.

Regards
Greg

[AlpineAde]

Greg, you probably can...I'm unsure.

I just went with what was recommended by a couple of sources as being very, very robust and capable of standing up to some pretty hard punishment.

From what I've gathered, this set-up is used by a few of the race guys here so I'm sold on that.

[AlpineAde]

Well, the mounts arrived and are in the car.

They look to be a nice bit of kit:







I also received a 370mm Tech2 wheel in the post from Mike (many, many thanks, mate! ):



It's perfect for me as I wanted one to restore completely. So, new leather, horn button and badges.... Yum!

[m_jermyn]

I only used that wheel for a day and boy do I miss the small diameter.. Should be a beauty when its done.

Mike

[AlpineAde]

That's what I'm hoping for, Mike. I've already sized up a couple of places for the work. I want to get my WAR chip up and running first so I might take my time with the resto. I'm also thinking of having the wheel thickened slightly, too.

[powelly]

You gotta love a Tech 2 wheel, I took delivery of a brand spanking new 370mm one today, it's a beautiful thing and whats more they will now be NLA, according to the dealer I got the last one.

[AlpineAde]

The last of them? Well done! I'm looking forward to getting this one on mine. I'll be able to sell the 385mm unit for reasonable money, so that will go towards the restoration of the 370mm wheel.

[AlpineAde]

It's been a while ~ I've been crook and the car was stowed away for a bit but we're on the move again. Finally.

I've been interested in these for a while a finally did something about it: the SS clutch line from UUC Motorwerks....

Here's their spiel:

"Stainless steel clutch line for improved clutch control

100% MADE IN USA

Original clutch line is rubber and can expand under the normal pressure of use. This expansion of the line negatively affects the clutch slave cylinder actuation, and makes for mushy pedal feedback.

UUC's Stainless Clutch Line is used to "performance tune" your clutch control. Inner Teflon® line is covered with woven stainless steel braid that will not expand under pressure.

The advantages include better clutch pedal feedback and superior clutch modulation. Results will be immediate.

Technical features:

* line material fully compliant with DOT standards (MVSS-1006)

* lines burst-tested to 6000psi
(maximum tested pressure from a BMW hydraulic system is 1200psi)

* Teflon® inner line covered with a woven layer of stainless steel
and covered in an abrasion-resistant material (translucent blue plastic covering).

* end pieces perfectly match original BMW design for easy assembly."

The part replaces BMW part number: 21 5 21 156 673

Here's some pics that I took at BM Autowerks yesterday:









Initial impression: outstanding! The quality of the product is top notch (as is usual from UUC). In terms of its performance I can report a definite improvement in pedal feel. It's much easier to feed the clutch with feel than was the case previously and makes for an experience whereby the driver can modulate the clutch with real authority. This is something that is needed when a heavily uprated clutch is utilized. All up: for such a low price, this is a great bang for buck upgrade that gives the driver excellent feel and feedback. Thumbs up from me!

[AlpineAde]

Well, the WAR chip is in....

Initial impressions:

1) Very rich upon start up.
2) Dreadful idle when cold.
3) When up to temp the car will often "hunt" something awful when stationary, revs fluctuating anywhere between near stalling and 900 odd rpm.
4) In terms of pure performance I would say that the WAR system shows a lot of potential. It's not bad at all, though upon occasion the car appears a little flat at certain loads when full throttle is applied...like it takes a little breath before getting down to business.

The rotary dial confuses the hell out of me. Four tunes would seem to warrant a 4 position dial. Miller supply a dial that has 10 odd positions on it. Strangely, the car runs wherever the dial is set. Odd. I'll be emailing the guys at Miller about this.

The base map is not as refined as the map supplied on their previous MAF chip. It is definitely a base map ~ not a bad one ~ but definitely something designed to be tweaked. The car WILL need to be tuned on a dyno to get anywhere near the best out of the new setup.

I'll be able to tell a little more when I get the car out on another run.

[m_jermyn]

hmmmm I have heard alot of these issues with the millers, I also hear they have very good customer supoort.

Hope you get it sorted dude.

Mike

[AlpineAde]

All issues I had with the previous chip/MAF installation were resolved just fine, Mike. I expect this will be the case again this time, too; and, yes, their customer support is pretty bloody good...no complaints from me at all.

[Simon13]

i've had a braided clutch hose my alpina touring for over a year cost me half the price bmw wanted for the rubber OE one. Gives a firm bite point but it all works well with the lightened fly and stock clutch. I like it and one is going on my 2 door also! i still get clutch shudder in heavy traffic, but thats always been an M20 thing

[toby]

Where did you get that Simon?

[AlpineAde]

i've had a braided clutch hose my alpina touring for over a year cost me half the price bmw wanted for the rubber OE one.

I was surprised at just how cheap they were. A real bargain compared to the price of the OEM unit as you point out. I'm still impressed with mine...nice little mod to do for not too many dollars I reckon.

[Giddyup58]

Hi Ade.

Just read the thread - congrat's mate - you have done a wonderful job, maintaining and improving a truely gorgeous classic. I concur and relate to the way you have not skimped on anything. If it needs it, then do it once and do it right. If it costs a bit more, then that's what it costs - save a bit longer. It'll still be there next week.

Did you ever get the spec's sorted on your cam? At one stage you thought it may not be "just" a 272. Did the before and after dyno tuning results come in? Very curious, as your specs are sorta close to mine.

What's the go with wheel size on the track? Are 15's as fast as 16's or 17's? I know the race boys are stuck with 15's but we don't have such restrictions. Probably best to avoid 17's (I'm too old to appreciate the ricer look), some beaut 16's around (hartge, alpina (pant, pant)) and plenty of factory and AMG 15's as well as my favourite MiM's.

After now having read this thread, I am champing at the bit to get the stroker into the little blue car....steady on, Harry boy....one step at a time...you can go and play with Ade soon enough...

As Lawsie says, Keep the Dream Alive!!

[AlpineAde]

Hi Ade.

Just read the thread - congrat's mate - you have done a wonderful job, maintaining and improving a truely gorgeous classic.

Thank'ee! I appreciate your kind words.

I concur and relate to the way you have not skimped on anything.

Indeed. Buy cheap or buy silly and pay twice I reckon. It is always best to do some research and look at quality gear I feel.

Did you ever get the spec's sorted on your cam?

I did, matey. It was indeed a 272 Schrick. It's a good cam for what I need: mostly road, with a decent whack of track time thrown in each year to keep the old girl exercised.

What's the go with wheel size on the track? Are 15's as fast as 16's or 17's?

Personally, I prefer 15"s. That's just me. 16"s are OK though but I feel that you're approaching the limit with them. 15"s offer a lower unsprung mass and match the design of the car perfectly, so I will be more than happy to land myself a decent set and run with those. 16" would be my second choice and 17" present no choice at all. LOL!

Please do a build thread of your own E30 as I would love to see it. I read your intro thread and the plans you have for the car ~ and the work already done ~ sound fantastic. Again, thanks for the kind words and enjoy your stay with us here at the Zone.

[Giddyup58]

Hey Ade - any recent updates?