Could anyone reccomend the best way to change a sump. I got hold of one today finally but when i came to take my one off i couldn't get at one of the bolts and i seem to remember reading that you need to raise the engine. I don't have a hoist so that could be difficult so does anyone know any other way of going about it?
Cheers Raf.
Changing sump
Moderator: martauto
You could get an engine brace that secures across the wing tops and allows you to raise the engine slightly.
Think they cost around £50 at machinemart or similar,maybe able to hire/borrow one?
Or you could just support the car on axle stands and lower the front crossmember,depends how spanner friendly you are though?
Think they cost around £50 at machinemart or similar,maybe able to hire/borrow one?
Or you could just support the car on axle stands and lower the front crossmember,depends how spanner friendly you are though?
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E30Mark
- E30 Zone Team Member
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Where are you Raf? I have an engine brace if you need one to borrow. I'm in Wimborne, Dorset...
1 & 2 bed flats in Bournemouth areas, with parking
PM for details
PM for details
I'm down in kent unfortunatly. So theres no other way of doing it than raising the engine or lowering the subframe. I was looking at it today trying to weigh up what to do and was gonna try lowering the subframe but it was starting to get dark. How/how hard is it to do? I'm pretty good with the spanners (if i do say so myself 
) but i have never done this on a beemer or any rwd car for that matter, so it's all abit alien to me.
) but i have never done this on a beemer or any rwd car for that matter, so it's all abit alien to me.Could always treat yourself to this
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... ine-stands
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... ine-stands
You can jack it from the bottom of the pulley assembly but, it's a risky situ due to it being able to rock to one side when raised - - - - - highly unstable i think is the correct term lol.
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HairyScreech
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jack the sump up and then suport the botom of the bell housing with a jack and stick a lil somthing between the mounts and the subframe.
if you can get it off for shits or giggles then just ondo the oil pump through the gap.
if you can get it off for shits or giggles then just ondo the oil pump through the gap.
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Hold on, M40 sumps are 2 piece - do you definatly need to replace the main part of it or just the pan it's self??
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=10
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=10
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I see, so what if i jacked up the engine put a couple of blocks between the mounts and then let the engine rest on them so i have the clearance to change the sump then jack the engine up again whip the blocks out and bobs your uncle? 
Yep, that'll work - you might want to release the rad mounts as well because, depending how far the engine needs to traval will determine how much play you have in the collant pipesRaf17 wrote:I see, so what if i jacked up the engine put a couple of blocks between the mounts and then let the engine rest on them so i have the clearance to change the sump then jack the engine up again whip the blocks out and bobs your uncle?
"I F**KING LOVE YOU GUMBO"
ok so only had about an hour free today so couldn't do much but thought i would unbolt the mounts at least, first one came off fine, but the second one loosened slightly but now the actual 'bolt' going through the mount is just turning so i can't undo the nut. What can i do? Nothing ever works does it 
Pretty sure its a seperate stud either side of the rubber mateRaf17 wrote: the second one loosened slightly but now the actual 'bolt' going through the mount is just turning so i can't undo the nut. What can i do? Nothing ever works does it
What you could do is tighten that nut back up and remove the nut holding the rubber mount to the crossmember.Easy enough to get to underneath with a deep 17mm socket and an extension bar.With the weight of the engine putting pressure on the rubber it will come off easy enough!
Yeah was thinking of just undoing it from another place and leaving that mount alone but my problem then is that that mount is a little loose now and i cant tighten it cause the stud just spins. only think i can think of doing is jacking up the engine to take up that bit of loosness so theres alot of pressure on it and then trying to tighten it.
Worth a try jacking up a bit.Raf17 wrote:Yeah was thinking of just undoing it from another place and leaving that mount alone but my problem then is that that mount is a little loose now and i cant tighten it cause the stud just spins. only think i can think of doing is jacking up the engine to take up that bit of loosness so theres alot of pressure on it and then trying to tighten it.
Bottom part is a 10 minute jobmaxfield wrote:I have this lovely job this weekend. Only the bottom pan though.
I thought i would only have to do the bottom bit but then when i took off what was left of the bottom part i discovered it had taken some of the top part with it Will try the jacking it up tomorrow if that don't work it's gonna hafta meet my buddy A. Grinder 
Ok getting real annoyed with this now. Managed to release both engine mounts and have raised the engine buts it's only raised it like an inch and half or so and now instead of just lifting the engine its taking the car up with it. Can't really work out why but it means that i can't quite get the sump clear. Only need like another half inch and it'll be out. Anyone got any advice?
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handpaper
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Loosen the gearbox mounts - don't remove them or you'll have a crap time getting it all lined up again. Also, you can lift the engine by jacking under the exhaust manifold with a lump of 4x2 on the jack.
Haha cheers for the advice guys but was none of the above, i had forgot to undo the engine mount dampener things (Dave ) so when they reached there max travel they pulled the car up with it. Anyway shes back on the road again now finally. Cheers for everyones help!
) so when they reached there max travel they pulled the car up with it. Anyway shes back on the road again now finally. Cheers for everyones help!
? wait a minute, if it's a m40 its easy, i did it and there are 3 steps that you have to remember, if you skip one you cannot get the job done.
1. Unscrew the bolts
2. Change oil pan
3. Screw bolts
1. Unscrew the bolts
2. Change oil pan
3. Screw bolts
Axel
BMW 320i Touring (M20B25 RD Headers)
BMW 320i Touring (M20B25 RD Headers)
Pah, did you do the top and bottom parts of the sump? If you did both parts that easily you are some degree of magician!maxel wrote:? wait a minute, if it's a m40 its easy, i did it and there are 3 steps that you have to remember, if you skip one you cannot get the job done.
1. Unscrew the bolts
2. Change oil pan
3. Screw bolts
That'll be the gearbox on the bulkhead. Try loosening the gearbox mount and jacking up the front at the same time to let the front of the engine twist. Might be best to use the trolley jack on the gearbox, undo the mount, lower the gearbox slowly (engine will tilt on it's mounts) keeping an eye on how tight everything is like the clutch line and the prop, gear selector and the exhaust etc. Then rest the gearbox on something and remove the jack. Then go back to the front and jack up the engine again and see if you get the extra clearance.
Good luck, just keep your eye on EVERYTHING that is attached to the engine/gearbox as most things won't appreciate being moved/bent out of place.
Good luck, just keep your eye on EVERYTHING that is attached to the engine/gearbox as most things won't appreciate being moved/bent out of place.
I did it on saturday, as i posted aboveMJG wrote:That'll be the gearbox on the bulkhead. Try loosening the gearbox mount and jacking up the front at the same time to let the front of the engine twist. Might be best to use the trolley jack on the gearbox, undo the mount, lower the gearbox slowly (engine will tilt on it's mounts) keeping an eye on how tight everything is like the clutch line and the prop, gear selector and the exhaust etc. Then rest the gearbox on something and remove the jack. Then go back to the front and jack up the engine again and see if you get the extra clearance.
Good luck, just keep your eye on EVERYTHING that is attached to the engine/gearbox as most things won't appreciate being moved/bent out of place.