Stupid Central Locking.....please help
Moderator: martauto
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tailoutcharlie
- E30 Zone Addict

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think the hardest part is getting the door side half off as you hae done. iirc just get your arm up there and gently pull, prepare to stand corrected 
Chris


- Brianmoooore
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The corrosion in the door connectors is largely caused by the presence of a couple of permanently live pins. These pins are the two with the red/black wires on them.
you can get at both these wires to cut them by removing the driver's footwell loudspeaker.
The mirrors have a pin that is live with the first ignition position, so this pin corrodes as well, but slower the the red/black pair, as they are live all the time.
It's unusual for the window pins to give trouble as they are only live when the windows are moving.
Not sure what you can't do, Saboor, get the connector apart or the socket from the door hinge pillar?
To get the connector apart, pull off the rubber boot, remove the small piece of white plastic (three circles) in the middle, take two pairs of pliers and pull on the two tabs each side, pulling them inwards as well as backwards.
Be sure to refit the rubber boot to the plug before you push it back into the socket.
The socket comes out of the door hinge pillar by just pushing the locating clips towards the centre and pulling the socket out. Probably helps with slack wire if you take the speaker out first.
You can bypass the pins completely by threading wires through the large hole in the plug and socket (provided for this purpose), and feeding them through the rubber boot straight into the door.
you can get at both these wires to cut them by removing the driver's footwell loudspeaker.
The mirrors have a pin that is live with the first ignition position, so this pin corrodes as well, but slower the the red/black pair, as they are live all the time.
It's unusual for the window pins to give trouble as they are only live when the windows are moving.
Not sure what you can't do, Saboor, get the connector apart or the socket from the door hinge pillar?
To get the connector apart, pull off the rubber boot, remove the small piece of white plastic (three circles) in the middle, take two pairs of pliers and pull on the two tabs each side, pulling them inwards as well as backwards.
Be sure to refit the rubber boot to the plug before you push it back into the socket.
The socket comes out of the door hinge pillar by just pushing the locating clips towards the centre and pulling the socket out. Probably helps with slack wire if you take the speaker out first.
You can bypass the pins completely by threading wires through the large hole in the plug and socket (provided for this purpose), and feeding them through the rubber boot straight into the door.
- grantfk10
- E30 Zone Meets/Events Team

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Brianmoooore wrote:You don't replace this pin!! This is one of the infamous red/black wires! Use the search function!grantfk10 wrote:Similar problem here, my C/L packed up, I've discovered the problem, just need advice to sort it......
The pin has corroded and broken off, how do I replace it, or do I need a whole new block?
Sorted
Central locking is working now, even the boot and petrol flap.
The red and black wire trick worked for me.
Cheers Brianmoooore!
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goosiegander
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Cheers Saboor, The thing that really stumped me was how the lock just suddenly came back to life after being left alone for a bit, i had actually given up for the day lol!
Brian has that happened to you? You know if its just the relay having a quick headache?
Best regards and good luck to all those plagued or soon to be plagued by this blight
Brian has that happened to you? You know if its just the relay having a quick headache?
Best regards and good luck to all those plagued or soon to be plagued by this blight
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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If the central locking is operated many times in quick succesion it will shut down for a while, by design.
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goosiegander
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ahhh -fantastic! thanks Brian 
- Brianmoooore
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Key barrel and the bits attached to it need a good service.The_Stig wrote:sorry to jump in on this one but i too am having locking problems i can only lock/unlock my drivers door from inside boot locks ok from out side so does passanger door could this be causing my central locking to malfunction
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tailoutcharlie
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roll up roll up, all your central locking questions answered here
i was gonna sort mine this week, had whole week off and its pi**ed down all week
i was gonna sort mine this week, had whole week off and its pi**ed down all week
Chris


- siddiqi1
- BFG Zone Contributor
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Everyone seems to be on it with the central locking.
I still havent done it, "AND I STARTED THIS THREAD" lol
Well good on ya peeps, get that central locking working, i will to someday, once this weather sorts itself
Saboor
I still havent done it, "AND I STARTED THIS THREAD" lol
Well good on ya peeps, get that central locking working, i will to someday, once this weather sorts itself
Saboor
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tailoutcharlie
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^^^+1 
Chris


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Careanla
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As I said earlier on in this topic (or another one, can't remember now) i've 'half way' done mine, just the drivers door not locking with the central locking which I think is the actuator but I need to get the door panel off first, but.....
It's not stopped raining lol
The good thing is now... the boot locks the passenger door locks and so does the petrol flap!! Thats with the key in either the boot or the passenger door!! YAY!!
Fri 13th I do my first big trip in my first BMW which is a straight run of 245miles and then i return 2 days later...
Can't wait!!
It's not stopped raining lol
The good thing is now... the boot locks the passenger door locks and so does the petrol flap!! Thats with the key in either the boot or the passenger door!! YAY!!
Fri 13th I do my first big trip in my first BMW which is a straight run of 245miles and then i return 2 days later...
Can't wait!!


