Hey guys, just got my car back on the road and everything has bin awsome with the car but now the central locking has packed in! Anything i can do to find out the problem? It doesnt lock from the boot anymore so its not just the drivers door.
Cheers
Kyle
Central Locking
Moderator: martauto
Could be the fuse? Fuse 27 should be 30a and also runs the horn and sounds system.
failing that:
http://www.mesaperformance.com/faqs/centlock.html
Section 6 on there has a step by step guide to running diagnosis on the central locking relay. It does involve access to the relay, but its not hard to get to.
The relays have a safety cut out - basically a springy metal strip held down with low melting point solder, designed to cut the circuit if there's a problem with any of the solenoids or wiring. If the test all point to the relay, open it up and remelt the solder. Don't add any fresh unless that is low melting point as well.
failing that:
http://www.mesaperformance.com/faqs/centlock.html
Section 6 on there has a step by step guide to running diagnosis on the central locking relay. It does involve access to the relay, but its not hard to get to.
The relays have a safety cut out - basically a springy metal strip held down with low melting point solder, designed to cut the circuit if there's a problem with any of the solenoids or wiring. If the test all point to the relay, open it up and remelt the solder. Don't add any fresh unless that is low melting point as well.
If it's completely stopped working and the other things ran on the fuse are ok, I'd hazard a guess at the safety cutout..
Remove the relay from behind the drivers side footwell kicker panel and try the tests. If the cutout has gone there maybe a short in the wiring somewhere? The tests should help rule that out. The location the relay is in can also get damp, leading to corrosion on the connectors and the unit itself.
I ran the tests and all the locks worked. I got the relay working by remelting the solder, but the board had some corrosion and would only allow locking from the boot. Found myself a new relay and it's been fine since!
Remove the relay from behind the drivers side footwell kicker panel and try the tests. If the cutout has gone there maybe a short in the wiring somewhere? The tests should help rule that out. The location the relay is in can also get damp, leading to corrosion on the connectors and the unit itself.
I ran the tests and all the locks worked. I got the relay working by remelting the solder, but the board had some corrosion and would only allow locking from the boot. Found myself a new relay and it's been fine since!
-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Search - red AND black - my username.