Good job Brown!!!!!!!
Getting an engine in or out safely and cheaply
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miniblob
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Good job Brown!!!!!!!
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is it not poible to lift the engine out with a engine hoist and tilt bar?? is this the above the best way to remove a for 4 pot aswell?? 

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gareth
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or in other words... S=F/A (or is that Sweet F*** All ?!!!)
if they're higher grade (say 8.
then you're looking at nearer 900N/mm² (from memory...). i don't know what grade these things are made to as it's generally unspecified.
a general (safe) rule of thumb for a stress concentration factor on a thread is 2 so you're looking at a safety factor of about 5 on a mild steel stud. should be fine
assuming you're calculating on the basis of the load always being balanced on 2 of the studs rather than all 4, which would make sense.
if they're higher grade (say 8.
a general (safe) rule of thumb for a stress concentration factor on a thread is 2 so you're looking at a safety factor of about 5 on a mild steel stud. should be fine
assuming you're calculating on the basis of the load always being balanced on 2 of the studs rather than all 4, which would make sense.
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It's not called that but it involves triangles and 3D shapes i can't remember what it's called but it's complicatedTurbo-Brown wrote:What on Earth's 3D trig?!
c²= a²+b² - 2ab * COS C
thats an easy part of it

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stuartgallafant
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Turbo-Brown
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In all seriousness guys, I should really have done the calcs before trying this (although a bit of intuition told me it'd be alright) but we're better off for having done them so it was worth it to prove to myself that the method is safe.
Appletree, I used a crane to get the engine out of Brown a couple of years ago but because the bit between the headlights doesn't come off the engine ended up way up in the air and on my wonky drive, that gave me something of a puckered sphincter. (also the crane didn't lift quite high enough so I had to physically lift the engine over the front of the car which did my back no good at all!)
The reason I like this method is that it lets you do everything in a controlled manor without the risk of something slipping and things / people being damaged. You can go to the bog without leaving things hanging dangerously too which is nice.
Appletree, I used a crane to get the engine out of Brown a couple of years ago but because the bit between the headlights doesn't come off the engine ended up way up in the air and on my wonky drive, that gave me something of a puckered sphincter. (also the crane didn't lift quite high enough so I had to physically lift the engine over the front of the car which did my back no good at all!)
The reason I like this method is that it lets you do everything in a controlled manor without the risk of something slipping and things / people being damaged. You can go to the bog without leaving things hanging dangerously too which is nice.
Last edited by Turbo-Brown on Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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stuartgallafant
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Dan318-is
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that trigonometry for non right hand triangles; the cos rule follows when the two given sides dont have an angle between them; the sin rule for when they do.maxfield wrote:It's not called that but it involves triangles and 3D shapes i can't remember what it's called but it's complicatedTurbo-Brown wrote:What on Earth's 3D trig?!
c²= a²+b² - 2ab * COS C
thats an easy part of it
3d trig now that would be interesting!
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stuartgallafant
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jaistanley
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Is there a nice neat way of removing the front panel on an E30? Is it just a matter of removing a few spot welds? To do my S50 swap I fancy a bit more room to breathe.
I'm pretty much going to have to do it on my own over the next month or two's weekends and was going to do it the way you have above (lowering with a crane though, didn't think of using studding). I like the idea of removing the front panel to gain more access etc. My car is also an automatic so the gearbox is mahoosive!
Cheers Turbo-Brown
I'm pretty much going to have to do it on my own over the next month or two's weekends and was going to do it the way you have above (lowering with a crane though, didn't think of using studding). I like the idea of removing the front panel to gain more access etc. My car is also an automatic so the gearbox is mahoosive!
Cheers Turbo-Brown

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TouringMatt
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Too feckin rightin all seriousness though, this is genius
Have been looking at how i'd change my engine working on my own safely with minimal expense, bloody good solution.
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Turbo-Brown
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Will be in the not too distant future 
Is there anymore pics to this genius way? As they don't seem to be working and i'd really like to see how to do it
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Turbo-Brown
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Aah, will try and dig them out again!
Looked at this a couple of weeks ago actually, some pic would be great
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Turbo-Brown
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There ya go, all done 
If someone does wanna make it a wiki thing they're more than welcome!
If someone does wanna make it a wiki thing they're more than welcome!
Just a thought even though the studded bar is strong enough to take the load which is fine. The risk of damaging the sub frame mount holes/threads is too greater to risk because if you damage any of those threads the whole car is scrap end of. Those subframe threads are not replaceable or repairable is a structual part of the chassis and i wouldn't risk it for sake of hiring a crane.
Surely if something like that did happen you could just heli coil the holes?!?ShakeyC wrote:Just a thought even though the studded bar is strong enough to take the load which is fine. The risk of damaging the sub frame mount holes/threads is too greater to risk because if you damage any of those threads the whole car is scrap end of. Those subframe threads are not replaceable or repairable is a structual part of the chassis and i wouldn't risk it for sake of hiring a crane.
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Turbo-Brown
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Not sure how the holes would become damaged really.
So long as the studs don't turn (and you can make sure of that by holding them with your hand) there's no potential for damage.
If someone were somehow to suffer a stripped threaded insert, it wouldn't make any structural difference to the chassis if you made a 20mm hole above the damaged insert and just used an M10 nut to secure the subframe.
You're quite right though, people need to exercise their personal judgement and, if they're uncomfortable using this method, they should use another.
Can't see any reason that the thread couldn't be helicoiled thinking about it. There's enough room to swing the tap, and the inserts probably aren't all that high grade a steel. I know when I cross threaded a bolt in one years and years ago, it was dead easy to correct with a tap.
So long as the studs don't turn (and you can make sure of that by holding them with your hand) there's no potential for damage.
If someone were somehow to suffer a stripped threaded insert, it wouldn't make any structural difference to the chassis if you made a 20mm hole above the damaged insert and just used an M10 nut to secure the subframe.
You're quite right though, people need to exercise their personal judgement and, if they're uncomfortable using this method, they should use another.
Can't see any reason that the thread couldn't be helicoiled thinking about it. There's enough room to swing the tap, and the inserts probably aren't all that high grade a steel. I know when I cross threaded a bolt in one years and years ago, it was dead easy to correct with a tap.
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Grrrmachine
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Engine cranes are damn hard to come by over here, so I'm grateful for this thread. Has anyone else made use of this method recently? How exactly do you get the front end up so high to pull the engine and gearbox out? Putting jack stands just in front of the rear wheels looks like a really precarious balancing act to me...









