Meguiars clay detailing
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march109
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It is very very very important that your car is very very very clean before using it. It picks p small particles but anything bigger ends up getting dragged along your paint not doing it any good at all.
I use it though and I am very happy with it as a whole, haven't found anything I'd rather use anyway, but I'm sure theres better it would probably just hurt my pocket more!
I use it though and I am very happy with it as a whole, haven't found anything I'd rather use anyway, but I'm sure theres better it would probably just hurt my pocket more!
325i Tech 1 Touring, breaking.
2.5 high comp. M20, 3.64 LSD, Fully undersealed, Spax springs & Bilstein shocks, s/s exhaust, Alpina rep wheels and more.
2.5 high comp. M20, 3.64 LSD, Fully undersealed, Spax springs & Bilstein shocks, s/s exhaust, Alpina rep wheels and more.
Agreed the car must be clean to start with.
Liberally use the quick detailer spray which comes in the box making sure you have plenty of fluid on the area being cleaned with the clay. Regularly 'turn' the clay - the results are impressive.
Liberally use the quick detailer spray which comes in the box making sure you have plenty of fluid on the area being cleaned with the clay. Regularly 'turn' the clay - the results are impressive.
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billgatese30
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clay bars remove things like oxidisation and contamination that lies on the paint, it is NON-abrasive and does not remove swirls
wash the car well first, this removes all teh loose and large particles stuck on the paint and reduces the chances of scratching anything
then mix up a fresh bucket of water with some car shampoo in to use as lubricant, use as much as what you would when washing the car
then wet a small section of panel, about 1-2ft sqaure, then rub back and forth, up and down with the clay over a small lubricated section, keep checking the claybars surface for any contaminats (will look like black specs/dots/smears etc) keep folding and moulding the caly to reveal a new surface (a bit like you would with blutack to get it sticky) you may also see some colour transfering onto the caly surface, this can be either coloured polish and/or oxidisation form the paint surface its self, don't worry about it, if you run your hand over the clayed surface and then over a non clayed surface you will notice how much smoother then paint work is, it should feel like glass, if your not sure if you've rubbed enough, keep going untill you notice no more improvement in the "glassy-ness" of the paint, once your happy, move onto another small section untill itts the same as the last section, and repeat unitll the car is finished
you must keep the section being woked on wet with the lubricant soloution otherwise the clay will stick to the work and smear its self everywhere, if this happens, don't worry, just put some more water/lube on the area and then go over the debris with the clay again and it will pick its self back up form the paint surface
remember to keep on playing with that clay to reveal a new fresh side to rub against your paint, if you get to the point where no matter how much folding and tearing and remoulding you do reveals a new surface, then chuck it in the bin and carry on with a new bar, using a clay bar with contaminates in will do dmaage to you paint and will introduce swirls as all your doing is rubbing tiny bits of grit/dust over your paint, keep the surface fresh and clean and you'll have no problems
and most importantly.......clay bars will remove averything from your paint work..............that includes all wax and sealants, once properly calyed, your paintwork will have no additional protection and will need to have new wax/sealant applied to carry on protection your paint
if theres anyhting more you need to know, just ask
wash the car well first, this removes all teh loose and large particles stuck on the paint and reduces the chances of scratching anything
then mix up a fresh bucket of water with some car shampoo in to use as lubricant, use as much as what you would when washing the car
then wet a small section of panel, about 1-2ft sqaure, then rub back and forth, up and down with the clay over a small lubricated section, keep checking the claybars surface for any contaminats (will look like black specs/dots/smears etc) keep folding and moulding the caly to reveal a new surface (a bit like you would with blutack to get it sticky) you may also see some colour transfering onto the caly surface, this can be either coloured polish and/or oxidisation form the paint surface its self, don't worry about it, if you run your hand over the clayed surface and then over a non clayed surface you will notice how much smoother then paint work is, it should feel like glass, if your not sure if you've rubbed enough, keep going untill you notice no more improvement in the "glassy-ness" of the paint, once your happy, move onto another small section untill itts the same as the last section, and repeat unitll the car is finished
you must keep the section being woked on wet with the lubricant soloution otherwise the clay will stick to the work and smear its self everywhere, if this happens, don't worry, just put some more water/lube on the area and then go over the debris with the clay again and it will pick its self back up form the paint surface
remember to keep on playing with that clay to reveal a new fresh side to rub against your paint, if you get to the point where no matter how much folding and tearing and remoulding you do reveals a new surface, then chuck it in the bin and carry on with a new bar, using a clay bar with contaminates in will do dmaage to you paint and will introduce swirls as all your doing is rubbing tiny bits of grit/dust over your paint, keep the surface fresh and clean and you'll have no problems
and most importantly.......clay bars will remove averything from your paint work..............that includes all wax and sealants, once properly calyed, your paintwork will have no additional protection and will need to have new wax/sealant applied to carry on protection your paint
if theres anyhting more you need to know, just ask
spot on chris
all id add is that you dont need to use the whole clay bar
just break a piece off use it till its full of contaminants and then break another bit off
as said by chris it will not remove swirls and keep panel really wet
jon
all id add is that you dont need to use the whole clay bar
just break a piece off use it till its full of contaminants and then break another bit off
as said by chris it will not remove swirls and keep panel really wet
jon

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billgatese30
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depends on how much you want to spend really
zaino is the nuts, but will take a bit mroe time, money and paitence than meguiers
if you on a budget then get the meguiers 3 step one (think its called NXT) as its supposed to be very good and exceptional value for money
if you can afford to spend a little more then go for the zaino
you can only get it form here in the UK LINK
for plain white i would get the z1, z5 pro, and then the z8 finale spray, if you wish to remove swirls etc then get a bottle of ZPC fusion as well, this is an abrasive product and can get rid of small sewirls and micro marring, but i would say its only really worth it if you have a machine to buff with as it will take ages by hand unless you have arms like popeye
i would also invest in a bottle of proper cara shampoo too preferably made by the same people as the wax your gonna put on the car be it either meguiers or zaino
also i would recommend you use some micro fibre cloths/pads for application/removal and some microfibre mitts and drying towels when washing/drying
zaino is the nuts, but will take a bit mroe time, money and paitence than meguiers
if you on a budget then get the meguiers 3 step one (think its called NXT) as its supposed to be very good and exceptional value for money
if you can afford to spend a little more then go for the zaino
you can only get it form here in the UK LINK
for plain white i would get the z1, z5 pro, and then the z8 finale spray, if you wish to remove swirls etc then get a bottle of ZPC fusion as well, this is an abrasive product and can get rid of small sewirls and micro marring, but i would say its only really worth it if you have a machine to buff with as it will take ages by hand unless you have arms like popeye
i would also invest in a bottle of proper cara shampoo too preferably made by the same people as the wax your gonna put on the car be it either meguiers or zaino
also i would recommend you use some micro fibre cloths/pads for application/removal and some microfibre mitts and drying towels when washing/drying
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MrDazzle
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This one is the key...billgatese30 wrote: also i would recommend you use some micro fibre cloths/pads for application/removal and some microfibre mitts and drying towels when washing/drying
People spend £Â£Ã‚£ on polish then try and apply it with an old shirt (well, maybe not that extreme, but you get my point).
Last edited by MrDazzle on Wed Dec 06, 2006 7:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
on the money
wash,dry apply and take off all with microfibre
sponges,chamois and old t shirts do more damage than anything else
jon
wash,dry apply and take off all with microfibre
sponges,chamois and old t shirts do more damage than anything else
jon

- gooner1
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If you run out of the lubricant just dilute washing up liquid.In fact im almost sure in the care and detailing section there is a post that says wash car first with this first as it removes all the old wax.Check first though mate,id hate all the paint to come of your car cos i got it wrong 
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d6dph
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Chris, What brand of clay do you use, The Z18 is expensive for the amount you get. I was looking at this earlier: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/shop/deta ... /p_37.html
2 x 3oz bars for £14 instead of 2 x 2oz bars for £21 for the Z18.
Be interested to hear your views, Sonus is supposed to be reasonable quality.
2 x 3oz bars for £14 instead of 2 x 2oz bars for £21 for the Z18.
Be interested to hear your views, Sonus is supposed to be reasonable quality.

its top notch clay.d6dph wrote:Chris, What brand of clay do you use, The Z18 is expensive for the amount you get. I was looking at this earlier: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/shop/deta ... /p_37.html
2 x 3oz bars for £14 instead of 2 x 2oz bars for £21 for the Z18.
Be interested to hear your views, Sonus is supposed to be reasonable quality.
jon

no the sonus is top notch
john
john

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d6dph
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Use the microfibre towel mate, Its quite good for the money.
Jon supplied me with a couple of waffle drying towels and they are fantastic, the meguiars seems to be a very similar construction.
The natural chamois leathers seem hard work to me.
Jon supplied me with a couple of waffle drying towels and they are fantastic, the meguiars seems to be a very similar construction.
The natural chamois leathers seem hard work to me.

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Hap
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i suppose im the old guard when it comes to leather off the car just cant get on with idea of drying car with a cloth...guess ill have a go though n test it out, i may by the meguirs water magnet?
you will be amazed at the micofibre drying towel
so many people feel the same way and then they use one
i wipe my car down after washing with waffle drying towel and i dont have to wring it out once
john
so many people feel the same way and then they use one
i wipe my car down after washing with waffle drying towel and i dont have to wring it out once
john

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Car-Nut
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Clay bars are fab,but it took me 5hrs to do my M5 before Gaydon in August but well worth it.....
Got the E30 to do next week - end like billgates30 says it feels like glass afterwards and the comments you
get makes it well worth while
Got the E30 to do next week - end like billgates30 says it feels like glass afterwards and the comments you
get makes it well worth while
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Demlotcrew
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Are you sure? It has to be abrasive to work. Its clay!!!!billgatese30 wrote:clay bars remove things like oxidisation and contamination that lies on the paint, it is NON-abrasive and does not remove swirls
With regards to the towels i have found that they work really well when you have approx 6" of wax over the paint work as the water just runs off the pannels leaving only a few drops which a towel can easily handle drying a whole car. Try the same on a non waxed/treated car and you're looking at two or more towels to dry the car to a relatively good standard.
Andrew
in fact its not actually clay
what chris means if used correctly it wont damage your paint surface and it certainly wont remove swirls
to do that you need an abrasive product that will reduce paint/laquer around swirl to the same level as to make the swirl ,which in essence is a scratch and therefore a removal of top coat,disappear
jon
what chris means if used correctly it wont damage your paint surface and it certainly wont remove swirls
to do that you need an abrasive product that will reduce paint/laquer around swirl to the same level as to make the swirl ,which in essence is a scratch and therefore a removal of top coat,disappear
jon

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billgatese30
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i was always lead to believe that they were non-abrasive, and they relied on the crap sticking to themDemlotcrew wrote:Are you sure? It has to be abrasive to work. Its clay!!!!billgatese30 wrote:clay bars remove things like oxidisation and contamination that lies on the paint, it is NON-abrasive and does not remove swirls
see here
however after some further reading from here then i'm in two minds, although i am leaning towards sonus' opinion
either way i know that they are not abrasive enough to cause damage to the paint
a waxed car will naturally bead more and thus tend to have more water on surfaceDemlotcrew wrote:Are you sure? It has to be abrasive to work. Its clay!!!!billgatese30 wrote:clay bars remove things like oxidisation and contamination that lies on the paint, it is NON-abrasive and does not remove swirls
With regards to the towels i have found that they work really well when you have approx 6" of wax over the paint work as the water just runs off the pannels leaving only a few drops which a towel can easily handle drying a whole car. Try the same on a non waxed/treated car and you're looking at two or more towels to dry the car to a relatively good standard.
Andrew
an untreated one will tend to sheet
which towel/towels are you using??
jon

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MrDazzle
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I managed to dry the car (unwaxed, and indeed un-anything since it was post-clay) with one waffle-weave. Not sure of the size, somewhere between a tea-towel and a beach-towel.
Have to say I'm dead impressed with clay. Did my car for the first time last weekend, then polished it with Meguiars deep crystal and finished with their Carnauba wax. I dunno if it's psychological, but the car seems to stay cleaner now. It's Alpine White, and I used to get a nice shade of 'British Winter Grey' at the front and behind the wheels after 2-3 days of driving to work. It's been over a week now and it's still pretty much white. Gave it a rinse and a once over with Quick Detail and it looks like I've just waxed it again!
Also impressed with the way clay cleans glass, the water and crud you get on motorways slides of the windscreen so much more easily now. Silly as it may seem, I'm actually using alot less screenwash too!
Have to say I'm dead impressed with clay. Did my car for the first time last weekend, then polished it with Meguiars deep crystal and finished with their Carnauba wax. I dunno if it's psychological, but the car seems to stay cleaner now. It's Alpine White, and I used to get a nice shade of 'British Winter Grey' at the front and behind the wheels after 2-3 days of driving to work. It's been over a week now and it's still pretty much white. Gave it a rinse and a once over with Quick Detail and it looks like I've just waxed it again!
Also impressed with the way clay cleans glass, the water and crud you get on motorways slides of the windscreen so much more easily now. Silly as it may seem, I'm actually using alot less screenwash too!
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cliffybabe
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I gonna do the clay bar treatment on my cab this weekend after reading this should be interesting 

Considering Selling the Cabby, looks like its gonna go
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stuartgallafant
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stuartgallafant
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d6dph
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Stu, If you have the three stage stuff, You wont need the Tech wax.
As for Clay, I'm using this one at the moment http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/shop/deta ... /p_37.html
As for Clay, I'm using this one at the moment http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/shop/deta ... /p_37.html

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stuartgallafant
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d6dph
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Not as far as i'm aware.
The stage one is paint prep, a mild abrasive that removes the scratches and swirls. The longer you take on this section, the better the results. All about the prep.
The stage two is polish, this gives the paint its deep gloss and contains the oils the paint needs to keep it in good condition.
Stage three is the carnuba wax which is a hard protective layer, this will prolong the life of the finish.
I normally do the full three stage every other month when the weather is good enough, then keep the carnuba topped up between doing the three stages.
I'm fairly sure that tech wax is only a gloss enhancer and does not contain any abrasives.
The stage one is paint prep, a mild abrasive that removes the scratches and swirls. The longer you take on this section, the better the results. All about the prep.
The stage two is polish, this gives the paint its deep gloss and contains the oils the paint needs to keep it in good condition.
Stage three is the carnuba wax which is a hard protective layer, this will prolong the life of the finish.
I normally do the full three stage every other month when the weather is good enough, then keep the carnuba topped up between doing the three stages.
I'm fairly sure that tech wax is only a gloss enhancer and does not contain any abrasives.






