Stop those service lights annoying you.....
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oneblueleg
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.... on the SI board in the cluster, there's a nice little pcb that holds the leds...... it's on an edge connector and unplugs from the main board..... take it out..... sorted....no more service light woes, and no need to reset them!
It was only put in there to make sure you took the car in to the dealers when they wanted you to anyway!
It was only put in there to make sure you took the car in to the dealers when they wanted you to anyway!
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Lordschleife
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Only takes 10secs to reset with a bit of wire though
And they're a nice reminder anyway
And they're a nice reminder anyway
Cheers,
Robin

Robin

on the SI board in the cluster, there's a nice little pcb that holds the leds...... it's on an edge connector and unplugs from the main board..... take it out..... sorted....no more service light woes, and no need to reset them!
It was only put in there to make sure you took the car in to the dealers when they wanted you to anyway!
Another blown engine on the way????????????????
It was only put in there to make sure you took the car in to the dealers when they wanted you to anyway!
Another blown engine on the way????????????????
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Andy335Touring
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Can you take all the SI board and batterys out with out it knackering up any of the dials like the speedo and temp ?
I don't have the standard ECU so it won't work properly on mine as it is, so i may as well remove it if it's practical to do so ?
I don't have the standard ECU so it won't work properly on mine as it is, so i may as well remove it if it's practical to do so ?
- stevetigger
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Yes, the lights are seperate to the si board
It's not an insult to the engineering. The whole point of the service lights is they are a visible reminder of when work is required. There are enough tappy engines around already because owners have ignored easy maintenance to keep the engine sweet.agent006 wrote:What a huge insult to BMW's engineers.316eyes wrote:Another blown engine on the way????????????????
johnna wrote:Sick of cleaning flies from the windscreen?
Simply remove it and the rear screen between MOT's!
Flies run straight though which is good for them and you!
Try not to yawn though...
BMW E30 344i track car 
BMW F31 335d xdrive
BMW F31 335d xdrive
- Brianmoooore
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Or "How to devalue your E30 by a few £100 or so".oneblueleg wrote:.... on the SI board in the cluster, there's a nice little pcb that holds the leds...... it's on an edge connector and unplugs from the main board..... take it out..... sorted....no more service light woes, and no need to reset them!
It was only put in there to make sure you took the car in to the dealers when they wanted you to anyway!
Along with non functioning pad warning light, this is another thing that would make me walk away from a potential purchase.
My car has had the battery disconnected for the last 6 months while I rebuilt the engine. Now that its running again its telling me I need an oil service and the inspection light is on? How come? I thought that having been disconnected for so long it would assume its all new again and nothing needs done?
- Brianmoooore
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Just needs resetting. Short pin 7 of the diagnostic socket to earth and turn the ignition on untill they reset.Adammcf wrote:My car has had the battery disconnected for the last 6 months while I rebuilt the engine. Now that its running again its telling me I need an oil service and the inspection light is on? How come? I thought that having been disconnected for so long it would assume its all new again and nothing needs done?
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oneblueleg
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If you need little lights to come on to tell you to do the tappets, or change the oil, I've got a feeling you're not going to be able to look after your car properly anyway. These lights are for the people who bought the car brand new and need something to tell them to get the work done, not enthusiasts like you who have an empathy with old cars....
To suggest the engine will blow up if you don't have service indicator lights is a tad over the top!
Funny though never the less.
BTW Brian Moore... what's the diagnostic socket? Is that the white one that's not got anything plugged into it normally?
To suggest the engine will blow up if you don't have service indicator lights is a tad over the top!
Funny though never the less.
BTW Brian Moore... what's the diagnostic socket? Is that the white one that's not got anything plugged into it normally?
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oneblueleg
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Thanks widge, I'm not sure where that is exactly, I'll have a look...taWidge wrote:Its the one attached to the inlet manifold mate, with the twist off cap.
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oneblueleg
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Main man, thank you widgeWidge wrote:Passenger side, towards the front on a bracket bolted to the inlet manifold.
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oneblueleg
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Do you use the diagnostic plug then? If so, what for?m-dtech wrote:lol worrying.... he knows how to remove the lights that tell him a service is due but does not know where the diagnostic plug is
Here's how your SI lights work and how it's calculated that they de-illuminate:
http://www.peakeresearch.com/silights.htm
Really rather clever actually! Certainly wouldn't be disconnecting them, just resetting them AFTER getting the car serviced.
Stewart
PS: Credits for this go to a man off the 5 series forum!
http://www.peakeresearch.com/silights.htm
Really rather clever actually! Certainly wouldn't be disconnecting them, just resetting them AFTER getting the car serviced.
Stewart
PS: Credits for this go to a man off the 5 series forum!
- Brianmoooore
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Diagnostic socket has: Ignition pulses to coil, earth, 12V+, 12V ignition +, ignition light output from altenator, start signal, Rx and Tx from ECU, as well as the service light reset.oneblueleg wrote:[
Do you use the diagnostic plug then? If so, what for?
yes i do use it. and i know where it is.oneblueleg wrote:Do you use the diagnostic plug then? If so, what for?m-dtech wrote:lol worrying.... he knows how to remove the lights that tell him a service is due but does not know where the diagnostic plug is
its handy if u want to use the starter motor while not in the car.
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mrLEE30
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Rx and Tx are send and receive if you plug into the diagnostic you can talk to the ECU to read and clear fault codes etc etc (with the right softward/hardware of course)
onblueleg, your diagnostic socket will either be red (most likely depending on your car year, as hard to tell on cabs as they didn't face lift at same time as tin tops)
all plugs are where they said in the previous posts.
1- one has a red cap and is about 1-1.5 inch round, remove the red cap and look under the cap, you will see the pin numbers NOTE they are correct only when the cap is on the socket so find pin seven on the cap then check which pin it will be over when you replace the cap, that is pin 7 (sould also have metal in there as some pins not used) use a piece of wire and short pin & to the chassis/engine etc. turn on ignition wait a few secs and the lights should go out, remove short then repeat again to reset OIL SERVICE light if thats still on.
2 the later models have a bigger black plug about 2 inches accross. same deal remove the cover and look inside, the numbers on this plug are next to each pin (you may need a torch) inside the plug (they are quite small)
reset your lights as above.
good luck
mrlee
onblueleg, your diagnostic socket will either be red (most likely depending on your car year, as hard to tell on cabs as they didn't face lift at same time as tin tops)
all plugs are where they said in the previous posts.
1- one has a red cap and is about 1-1.5 inch round, remove the red cap and look under the cap, you will see the pin numbers NOTE they are correct only when the cap is on the socket so find pin seven on the cap then check which pin it will be over when you replace the cap, that is pin 7 (sould also have metal in there as some pins not used) use a piece of wire and short pin & to the chassis/engine etc. turn on ignition wait a few secs and the lights should go out, remove short then repeat again to reset OIL SERVICE light if thats still on.
2 the later models have a bigger black plug about 2 inches accross. same deal remove the cover and look inside, the numbers on this plug are next to each pin (you may need a torch) inside the plug (they are quite small)
reset your lights as above.
good luck
mrlee
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oneblueleg
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Many thanks MrLee
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Globulator
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Look here:
http://www.beckerelectronics.com/BMW/se ... reset.html
for the clearest diagrams.
Make SURE you connect the RIGHT PINS. Use a 100ohm resistor or at least a 0.5A fuse to join them.
When you are SURE you've connected the right pins, go inside the car and switch the ignition on so all the lights light up. Waiting times vary but are greater for inspection resets.
It's very easy, very neat. If you have pulled your dash out anyway then resolder all of the connections on the back as the solder joins seem to fail after the first 130,000 miles - a common source of the mysterious brake wear indicator always on syndrome.
http://www.beckerelectronics.com/BMW/se ... reset.html
for the clearest diagrams.
Make SURE you connect the RIGHT PINS. Use a 100ohm resistor or at least a 0.5A fuse to join them.
When you are SURE you've connected the right pins, go inside the car and switch the ignition on so all the lights light up. Waiting times vary but are greater for inspection resets.
It's very easy, very neat. If you have pulled your dash out anyway then resolder all of the connections on the back as the solder joins seem to fail after the first 130,000 miles - a common source of the mysterious brake wear indicator always on syndrome.



