i fixed the central locking on the wifes 318 touring at the weekend by repairing the red and black wire as mentioned on here and she rang me today when she finished work and was meant to be picking the kids up from school saying she couldnt unlock it on any door or the tailgate. i got home and we went to her work where i tried it and i couldnt unlock it either. i managed to open the drivers door in the end and got it home. i did a search on here and tried a few things.
changed central locking ecu thingy in the drivers footwell.
i removed the central locking solenoid from the drivers door and it is jammed solid. i changed that for a good one and still nothing.all other doors and tailgate are deadlocked. she is giving me serious greif as she now has to walk to school wityh the kids and then to work.she then has to arrange someone to collect them until she walks back. please help, i have been at it now for 2 1/2 hours and still no joy. cheers all
help-help-help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Demlotcrew
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You need to ground one of the deadlock wires so that it unlocks the other doors. Bu ti dont know which wire, give Brianmoor a PM he will know!
Andrew
Andrew
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Ant
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have you tried changing the microswitch in the barrel part of the system M8 ?
if my understanding is correct, should it be shorted the system will remain deadlocked regardless of key position
worth a peek maybe ?
if my understanding is correct, should it be shorted the system will remain deadlocked regardless of key position
worth a peek maybe ?
Product Development and Endurance for Delphi.
Original performance chips, original works not unlicensed copies
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Original performance chips, original works not unlicensed copies
Email FTW-
Brianmoooore
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Not another one!! What is it with central locking this week!!!!!. There's at least two other threads going on at the same time now, and I don't think I'm having much sucess with any of them.
First of all establish that there is a good 12V supply at the locking ECU socket by connecting a 12V lamp, preferably 21W, between the red/black and brown wires at the ECU connector.
You're the second one that has said the drivers door solenoid is jammed solid. There shouldn't be a deadlock in the drivers solenoid AFAIK. Anyone know different?.
Blue wire and black wire are the deadlock motor wires at the locking solenoid. Earth one (to brown wire) and a quick burst of 12V (from red/black) should set or unset the deadlocks. Can't remember which way around. Doing similar with the white wire and the blue wire should work the locking solenoids. All with the ECU unplugged, by the way.
Relevant fuse is 27.
First of all establish that there is a good 12V supply at the locking ECU socket by connecting a 12V lamp, preferably 21W, between the red/black and brown wires at the ECU connector.
You're the second one that has said the drivers door solenoid is jammed solid. There shouldn't be a deadlock in the drivers solenoid AFAIK. Anyone know different?.
Blue wire and black wire are the deadlock motor wires at the locking solenoid. Earth one (to brown wire) and a quick burst of 12V (from red/black) should set or unset the deadlocks. Can't remember which way around. Doing similar with the white wire and the blue wire should work the locking solenoids. All with the ECU unplugged, by the way.
Relevant fuse is 27.