First E30 - 316i Touring Rescue - (Update: Now MOT'd!)

Doing a minor build / restoration or an epic one, post it here

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iDemonix
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Wed May 23, 2018 9:16 pm

Cheers, the studs unfortunately practically fell off. One of them I tried to turn by hand and it just came away! Will bear that in mind though.

I was planning on replacing any bolts removed with new anyway, I'll buy in bulk when the time comes but I think it'll be a while before anything is bolted back on to this car...

Don't suppose anyone has any pics of repairs they've done to this area? Sadly I think either the washer bottle has leaked (although it had plenty of fluid in it), water looks to have just pooled in that area and wasted it away.

I've not taken the other wing off yet. :eek:
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Brianmoooore
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Wed May 23, 2018 10:45 pm

Rust between the wheel housing and chassis rail is caused by the large bead of seam sealer used on the joint lifting off and drawing in water by capillary action. Same applies to many of the other common rust points.
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iDemonix
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Wed Jun 06, 2018 12:27 am

Left wing off

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Similar rot this side but not as bad, can't poke a hole but grinder might find some

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ABS is above it annoyingly

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Bit of a faff and a lot of bloody money later I've got the welder working, and a 20L cylinder. Learning commences.

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iDemonix
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Thu Jun 07, 2018 11:17 am

2nd attempt today, getting there...

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fulnic
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Thu Jun 07, 2018 1:36 pm

Thanks for the running updates, although I can't see the pictures (internet security at work!) these posts are giving me hope that my project E30 might not be too bad and I'll be able to get the bodywork fixed up.

Keep up the posts, they're a really good read for a fellow noob.
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iDemonix
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Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:55 am

Rad out to better strip the rust

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I'm just wire wheeling it off. The tricky bits I'm brushing by hand and then just coating in 'direct to rust' por-15.

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Turns out cutting straight lines is hard. I'll try to even it out with a flapper wheel. I envy people that have their chassis stripped and on a spit. Such a pain trying to get the angle grinder in the engine bay to take the seam sealer off.

Here's how I'm thinking patching will go (apart from badly):

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Can someone remind me what the two blue holes highlighted above are for, I can't remember, but think I need to replicate. I won't replicate the little drop down they have around the holes, I'll just run a straight line of metal.

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I'm going to suck at shaping patches but got to learn somehow. Will try get the cuts neater, then get my Cardboard Aided Design going. If I actually manage to weld up this bit, the next bit will be the drivers floor pan corner.

Really want to work on it more often but car park has two gardens in it with young families so I feel a bit bad going mental with the angle grinder :x

Cutting half done though for this area, wish me luck and feel free to tell me my patching plans are shit.
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BenHar
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Fri Jun 22, 2018 10:23 am

Holes are for the screws that hold the arch liner and undertray. They have spire clips on them for the screws.


Ben
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iDemonix
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Sun Jun 24, 2018 5:58 pm

Decided to try knock a patch part up, it went quite well so wheeled the welder over and had a go.

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I tidied it up a bit after the above pic, ground it down, welded a bit more for better penetration and to fix some holes.

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Few holes which I started sorting, but...

Unfortunately my welder is playing up, and it's massively frustrating. Just doing the above line, the welder wire feed jammed 3-4 times. My actual welding skills I don't think are *too bad*, but my machine is so intermittent one minute it shoots wire out too fast, then it stops completely, then works again....

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Already replaced the welder tip, gas shroud, brass holder... bought a new torch neck but can't get the old one off and the replacement is too big anyway, might replace the sleeve to the torch to see if that's it - have to sort it before I do any more welding.

There are some holes and more bits to do on this patch, but I couldn't get the wire feed working again so that's it for today, fun to finally hold a welder to a car I suppose.

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Ground down, bit of etch primer thrown on whilst I take some time away from the car trying to sort the MightyMig 150 out...
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martauto
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Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:12 pm

The end result is all that matters and looks great !!

Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
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iDemonix
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Tue Jun 26, 2018 7:33 pm

Welder bodged back in to life, but for how long who knows - I think once my track bike is built and I've progressed with the E30 a bit more, I might treat myself to a proper one instead of a more hobbyist one, there's other stuff I'd like to be able to make outside of cars/bikes...

Anyway. Turns out welding isn't the hard bit, the fiddly and painstakingly long process is shaping the patches to fit, especially when you can't cut straight.

This one is almost there, but I need to prepare the surfaces for patching first (take primer off this side, paint off the other side), and I need some seam sealer + weld-thru primer (using etch at the moment but been advised to use weld-thru) to arrive.

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Once the above bits arrive, and if the welder plays ball! I'll try doing that section. It's not a perfect patch, but it'll not be seen so I'll tack it then hammer it better in to shape. The holes for the inner plastic arch liner have been brought forward a bit, but I'll try and bend the metal back and I think there's some give/take there anyway.

To anyone with a rusty car that's unsure about learning to weld, just buy one 2nd hand and sell if you don't like it, it's really not too hard to get the very basics of and quite fun to do!
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martauto
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Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:42 pm

Alot of guys use cardboard to fashion the original shape and then bend to suit.
If I had an indoors place then I would definately give it a go.

Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
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iDemonix
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Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:56 pm

Cheers Mart, that's what I'm doing :) I'm using Cheerios and Shreddies (frosted, obviously) boxes to make the shapes, then cutting them with sheet metal snips. They warp the metal a bit when cutting, I should probably just clamp sheet metal to the desk and use a cutting disc, or buy a hacksaw...

Still waiting for seam sealer and weld through zinc primer, then I'll tidy the area up and try that patch, then look at redoing the 'bottom plate' kinda patch behind it, it's not going to look neat but it'll never be seen.

It'd definitely be easier indoors!
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martauto
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Thu Jun 28, 2018 3:47 pm

If you know of an engineering shop nearby, then ask if they have a thick piece of plate they can give you to flatten out the piece you have just made. Explain why and you may be happy with the end result, us engineers will always help out.

Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
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iDemonix
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Mon Jul 09, 2018 4:40 pm

Welded the piece I cut in place. It wasn't the best weld, and there were 1-2 tiny pinholes which I filled with weld and then ground it all down. It's solid though, and I suppose not too bad for a first attempt at welding.

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I'm using a weld-through primer, and sealing with tiger seal, then will paint over with por-13 (for engine bay) or undercoat/waxoyl (for inner arches). Someone the E30 FB disagreed and said to use a 2k primer, I was told to use what I'm using by a welder who does this for a living, so if anyone has any opinions feel free to chip in!

Next bit is to cut the 'floor' bit of the wing out as pictured. My welding friend recommended cutting a piece with a 1cm lip bent down where it joins my new metal, going to take a lot of fettling...

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Crawling along...
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iDemonix
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Sun Sep 15, 2019 11:45 pm

Christ, can't believe it's been over a year!

For lots of personal and other reasons people won't care about, the project hasn't really moved since the last post, however, all is about to change.

I decided to focus what budget I had on motorbikes, and now the track bike is built ready for next year, it's time to try and get this BMW on the road before Xmas 2019.

I've taken 3 days off work as I've got loads of annual leave to use before the year ends. My jobs are going to be: getting all the front end stripped/primered/painted; cut the rot out ready for patching; rebuild the front suspension; refurbish the brakes.

As it's been a while, rather than jump in to cutting out round the gaping holes, I'm starting mechanically. I've allotted a budget of £2k to get this car done before xmas, and I think that's doable. I've spent a fair bit already on new parts, as now I've got money invested in it, it'll force me to get all the horrible welding done. Probably not the way most people go about things but hey ho.

Let's start with the current state of the front end:

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Oh my. What about the other side?

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Yup.

The eagle eyed will spot the fact that it has an E30 control arm on the O/S and an E46 control arm on the N/S...

I stripped the chassis last year back to bare metal, and painted it in two coats of Por-15. It turns out it really is best on rust, and shite on plain metal.

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I'm going to strip the chassis + inner wings back to bare metal, if anyone has a recommendation for what to use that'd be appreciated. I've got 4x cans of zinc based primer, not sure if it's ideal to use that + paint over?

Removal of most of the front end uses the BFH, as with all rusted project cars:

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The bolts all put up a fight but eventually came off both sides, although the disc retaining bolt had to be drilled out each side, but that doesn't matter as the wheel bearings/ABS rings were toast anyway.

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This left me with some beautiful Girling callipers:

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Despite them looking like something a canal magnet fisher rescued from the deep, the pistons both came out with a mate pumping a bicycle track pump, and me holding the beachball adapter on the inlet and covering the piston with a towel, which makes a good bang when it fires out (watch your fingers). I was hoping both the pistons would be useable, but sadly one has pitted past the dust seal quite badly, new one being ordered.

Good:

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Bad:

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A mate came round to lend a hand, so I left him to sort the callipers out, and after a couple of hours with a dremel and wire wheel, they've come up good:

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There was more work done on the above after that pic, they're both very clean now, and the bores have been given a light polish with 1500 wet/dry.

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They're going to be painted in the above, he's popping round to finish the job this week, then I'll fit the rebuild kits + new piston and they're good to go, going to try and source some new bleed nipples, and the new lines will likely be braided.

So, so far that will be a punishment of the wallet to the tune of:
  • Lemforder wishbones
  • Lollipop bushes (eccentric type)
  • ARB bushes
  • ARB drop-links (Meyle HD)
  • Front back plates
  • Discs/pads (Brembo + Pagid) + wear sensor
  • 2x Wheel hubs/bearings
  • Calliper rebuild kits
  • New front brake piston
There's other fiddly bits too like dust seals, as I think the current ones might be past it:

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I've ordered a ton of tools and parts, but sadly the ball joint splitter didn't arrive in time for my mate helping me on the Saturday, so we improvised with a BFH and a claw hammer, seeing as the ball joint is scrap anyway:

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With the suspension legs off, it's time to whip the lollipop bolts out and inspect the bushes:

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Now you see why they're on the list above.

Lollipops twisted and bashed off the wishbones, it's time to remove the metal remnant of the old bush. If you're someone that's very delicate, takes pride in their work, and has great care for the things they work on, then go inside for a bit and ask someone else to come and batter the living daylights out of the internal ring with a lump hammer and an old chisel, a-la:

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Bonus points were almost given for belting it out at 50mph, ricocheting it off a wall, and almost hitting the helper friend that's wielding an angle grinder.

Buff the inside with 1500 grit sandpaper, tape up for wire wheeling and some generic aerosol heavy duty black gloss car paint:

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I've emailed a local-ish (Newbury) sandblast + powdercoat place to get a quote for some work. I'm torn between just getting the struts and ARB done, or getting an engine support to hover the engine whilst I remove the rusty subframe for the same treatment.

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When starting I'd wanted to put a Z4 purple tag rack in, but I don't think I'll do that just yet as it involves a bit of custom part malarky with the steering column guibo and pipework - another time, just need it MOT'd for now.

Going to see what the quotes come back like, and if they're not too bad including the subframe I might just bite the bullet and buy a support. It will add engine mounts and bolts to the bill, as most of them look perished/worn anyway.

It's Monday tomorrow, and most my parts are scheduled to arrive over the next 2-3 days. First job is to get the old wishbones removed, but I think I'll have to cut the ball joints with angle grinder as the bolts on top of the subframe are just round blobs of rust. Then I need to get the old ARB off, but again the bolts look unrecognisable so will see how that goes, wire wheel everything first. That'll just leave the subframe attached and that's it. If I bite the bullet on the above I'll remove the steering rack this week and order the support.

Once I'm done with suspension removal and starting to rebuild bits on the bench, I can finally raise the car a bit higher on the jacks and start cutting some straight lines on the biggest MOT fail areas:

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Both corners need doing. I can't decide how much to cut out on the drivers side. I can't put a screwdriver though the area around the throttle pedal mount, so I'm tempted to paint that in por-15 and primer the rest (after patching/welding), as otherwise I've got to slowly cut the bracket out or buy some thicker metal and attempt to make it. It feels solid so I might leave it.

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That's enough for now. Having new parts arrive is a great motivation, and seeing the callipers start to look fresh etc pushes me on to get the big (welding) jobs done, so that I can finally start the reverse process of bolting bits back on to the car!

Very rough aims for last half of September:
  • Patch front floor panels
  • Patch inner wing (see previous post)
  • Get struts/ARB and maybe subframe powdercoated
  • Buy suspension (H+R 30mm lowering + Bilstein B4 shocks)
  • Fit new wishbones, ARB drops, bushes, lollipop offsets
  • Fit new wheelhubs, discs, brakes, pads (front)
  • Strip + paint (suggestions on products please) engine bay, inner wings, etc
  • Cut + patch sills (sections, not full)
Overall I'd just like to have the front end of the car complete this month, excluding the engine as that's one of the last jobs. I know it roughly runs, so I can figure the details later.

Trying not to think about the jobs after the above, as my todo list in Excel is over 250 lines long now and grows daily. Ah well, still semi-enjoying it, as long as NatWest holds out!

More updates to come (this year, this time!)
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iDemonix
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Mon Sep 16, 2019 12:04 am

I've just noticed that in the revamped forum there's a build forum, if a mod would like to move this over that'd be nice :)
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Mon Sep 16, 2019 8:47 am

Just read the whole thread, and good for you for sticking at it :thumb:
It will be worth it!!
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martauto
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Mon Sep 16, 2019 3:36 pm

iDemonix wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 12:04 am
I've just noticed that in the revamped forum there's a build forum, if a mod would like to move this over that'd be nice :)
Well here we are !!
Happy happy ?

Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
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ah
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Mon Sep 16, 2019 7:06 pm

iDemonix wrote:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 5:58 pm
Decided to try knock a patch part up, it went quite well so wheeled the welder over and had a go.

Image

Image

I tidied it up a bit after the above pic, ground it down, welded a bit more for better penetration and to fix some holes.

Image

Few holes which I started sorting, but...

Unfortunately my welder is playing up, and it's massively frustrating. Just doing the above line, the welder wire feed jammed 3-4 times. My actual welding skills I don't think are *too bad*, but my machine is so intermittent one minute it shoots wire out too fast, then it stops completely, then works again....

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Already replaced the welder tip, gas shroud, brass holder... bought a new torch neck but can't get the old one off and the replacement is too big anyway, might replace the sleeve to the torch to see if that's it - have to sort it before I do any more welding.

There are some holes and more bits to do on this patch, but I couldn't get the wire feed working again so that's it for today, fun to finally hold a welder to a car I suppose.

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Ground down, bit of etch primer thrown on whilst I take some time away from the car trying to sort the MightyMig 150 out...
Sorry I'm a bit late to the party, the last picture of the wire wound up in the welder,could be caused by wrong size tip,so the wire doesn't pass through if it's to small,also wire speed far to fast,but correct me if I'm wrong but there seems to be part of the wire feed missing.There are 2 holes directly after the feed wheel where something seems to go.
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iDemonix
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Mon Sep 16, 2019 8:18 pm

ah wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 7:06 pm
Sorry I'm a bit late to the party, the last picture of the wire wound up in the welder,could be caused by wrong size tip,so the wire doesn't pass through if it's to small,also wire speed far to fast,but correct me if I'm wrong but there seems to be part of the wire feed missing.There are 2 holes directly after the feed wheel where something seems to go.
Hey, thanks for the advice. The tip is .6mm and the wire is too. I ended up replacing both inner liners and this helped a bit, but then I didn't try much more welding - will be picking it back up soon.

You're right, the bit missing I've removed for the picture, it clamps the wire sleeve in place.

It's a crap welder tbh and I'm tempted to just flog it and drop £500 on an R Tech MIG 180 that'll last me forever.
martauto wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 3:36 pm
Well here we are !!
Happy happy ?

Mart.
Thanks Mart!
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iDemonix
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Mon Sep 16, 2019 8:44 pm

Didn't get too much done today as the sunny forecast was a lie and it rained most the day.

Amazingly the ARB bolts/nuts came apart without use of an angle grinder, and after much wrestling with the rusted-in-place brackets, an ARB was finally released:

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Next job was to introduce the eccentric bushes to their new homes:

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I thought this would be a lot easier, even with a 4ft pole on the vice handle, the wood broke before the bushing went in:

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After using a small piece of metal and improvising a bit, I got to this stage:

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I don't have a metal ring or race the right size to put in the vice to get it the rest of the way through, and because of how tough it was to get it that far, I've decided to leave the other one out, and I'll find a local engineering shop or mechanic to press them in properly for a beer token.

Lollipops set aside, it was time to drop the wishbones off the car, and get the final strut off.

Some interesting combination of adapters/bars was required to get the nuts off.

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After a lot of plus gas, and the 4ft pole back on the ratchet, they both freed up without much fight.

With several careful blows with a lump hammer, the wishbones dropped out both sides:

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Time to disassemble the legs for either powder coating, or sanding + spray painting (if powder coating is expensive, still awaiting a quote...). My cheap Chinese spring compressor arrived, and the spring washers shot off in turn and nearly got me:

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A load of faffing later:

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The washers look reusable, the nut will be replaced, as will the ancient foam rod protector. The rubber seals were seemingly attached to the metal bits they sat on, but after careful prying with a screwdriver they came free. The top mount bearings sound gritty and have a tiny bit of play, so new top mounts will be used both sides - now ordered.

The 'dust guard' bit that protects the bearing is well and truly attached to the legs. I think I'll just have to put a dremel cutting disc on and slowly turn it in to dust:

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I have no idea how to separate these two parts, it looks like under the collar it's threaded? But it's so rusty it's hard to tell:

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Whilst we're discussing bits I can't remove:

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I don't own a blowtorch but I'm starting to think it might be time to get one, as I can not remove that ball joint at all.

My mate popped over again to help finish the callipers he started, so I put the strut to one side as he needed the bench and I focused on tidying up the N/S wheel arch. I started stripping it back to bare metal on the right of the below pic with the angle grinder, before assessing it and realising as there was no rust it'd be easier to just wire wheel the dirt off (which I started on the left) and top coat it with more waxoyl base layer.

Before:

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After:

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10 minute job but makes it look much more respectable. Another coat tomorrow, and maybe a couple more on the bit I stripped to metal to layer it up to the same thickness as the rest.

Another job to sort on that side is to strip this tomorrow with the flapper wheel:

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Can't get a thin screwdriver through it, so it might be a strip back and POR-15 job, will see. Be nice if no welding was required in that area as that's where the ABS box sits.

Whilst I was doing all of that, my friend did a good job of cleaning and then painting up the callipers:

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They're looking good, and if you're reading this, thanks Will!

One piston needs replacing, I've measured it as 48mm, but there appears to be two different depths for sale on eBay, so I'll have to measure how tall it is tomorrow, I know the Touring has slightly different, bigger brakes than most other E30 models.

More wire wheeling and disassembly tomorrow, if the powder coaters don't get back I'll chase them or look somewhere else. Also must cut the floors neatly this week for patching, and making up some card templates.

Now that the suspension and braking is almost entirely removed, the front end looks very bare, and I am now starting to think I might as well just suspend the engine on a bar and drop the subframe for a clean up. I'll decide tomorrow.
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Tue Sep 17, 2019 9:16 am

Love threads like these.

I’ve a Touring and doing front end suspension the last two weeks. Very satisfying.
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iDemonix
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Tue Sep 17, 2019 8:22 pm

Another day, another few bits done.

I drove over to a local MOT/service place that did a great job of pressing the bushes in, no payment required but I left a beer token, saved me mashing them to pieces...

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After clamping the collars in the vice, and using a big extension bar through a hole on the lower strut for leverage, both eventually came free after some soaking in plus gas:

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Struts are now all disassembled, the clips for the cables don't look saveable though so if anyone knows how to source replacements please let me know.

Now...

Cutting commences!

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O/S hole neatened up for patchwork:

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Some fettling tomorrow to get the edges neat enough to weld against...

The passenger side needs the fuel line dropping first, as it's too close to cutting action to leave in place.

My mate Will came over again, I set him to work on stripping the wing and rot hunting:

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Sadly this revealed some holes:

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The underside needs stripping to see if any holes appear and patching is needed, don't want to replace the entire panel if I can avoid it.

Some nice bits, brake pad sensor arrived:

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Measurements, piston is 48x48, and the struts are the standard touring 51mm, I'll get dampers/springs ordered shortly.

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I've bitten the bullet and ordered the engine support bar, hopefully it'll arrive in time for the weekend and I can get the subframe off for blasting/coating, not that anywhere has gotten back with a bloody quote yet!

Day off work tomorrow, then back at work Thu/Fri, hoping to do a good push on the stripping/primering at the weekend. I've got 3 cans of aerosol zinc based weld-thru primer, so that's what's going to be used for inner wings/engine bay, and then I'll pick a paint to go over it.
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iDemonix
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Tue Sep 17, 2019 11:20 pm

Just felt my wallet hurt a bit more to the tune of 2x Bilstein B4 dampers (51mm versions) now en route.

The last bit I need are dust seals (£25 for a pissing pair?!?!) and springs, I think for springs I'm going for H&R -30mm:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372208044267

If anyone thinks they won't fit, shout quick as I'll order in the next day or two. I can't find a H&R seller in the UK so it looks like I'll just have to wait for them to arrive from Germany.
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Tue Sep 17, 2019 11:52 pm

Those springs will fit , personally I would go for Eibach which are a bit more forgiving than H&R and more or less the same price. The rust hasn't been too bad so far, especially that inner wing, it's nothing, fingers crossed for the rest of it!
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iDemonix
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Wed Sep 18, 2019 12:46 am

I couldn't find a good priced seller of Eibach, do you have a link or know of anywhere to look for a set? I did a lot of looking but I couldn't find any that would list 'Touring' as a model they fit, can I use the same springs from a coupe/saloon?

Thanks, yeah the rust is far from terminal, just annoying and a bit bad in lots of places. Hopefully do a fair bit of chopping this week and then I can finally start the "refitting is the reverse of removal" stages.

My friend has offered a lot of time to help, thinking I might get him to master brake/fuel line bending as I'm going to have to take them all off at some point!

Can I use the same 3/16" copper tubing for fuel and brake line, with 10mm couplers?
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iDemonix
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Wed Sep 18, 2019 1:32 pm

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383125607922

Could anyone confirm if I could use those before I drop some cash on them? It's very hard to find any Eibach that list 'touring' in the fitment, would these ones do? I would have thought a touring would have had slightly stronger rear springs, but I'm not sure.

Any fast advice appreciated as they're one of the last big pieces of the puzzle to get the front end on the ground again, and they need to come from Germany...
stones
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Wed Sep 18, 2019 3:33 pm

Eibach did list springs for Tourings but when I last tried to order I was told they didn't know when they would be back in stock. (4 or 5 years ago)
However even before this many people have used the springs for convertibles.
Links from my watch list coming up
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-Pro-K ... 1438.l2649

and the H&R listed for Tourings
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H-R-Federn-3 ... 1438.l2649

You can probably find them cheaper if you use the part numbers listed
HTH :)

Just to add using my Tourings Reg on Demon tweeks it shows the convertible spings in the list (PN e2010-240)
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iDemonix
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Wed Sep 18, 2019 7:32 pm

Thanks for the advice, the part number is great help.

Searching for that finds me these, which seem to be a bargain:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283369045500

They're listed as E2010-240 and for an E30 convertible, exactly like your listing, I've ordered those which should arrive in a week - just need to get the fecking powder coaters to talk to me now. Spoke to two on the phone, both asked for pics to be emailed and still no quote/reply. Hard to give money away these days!
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iDemonix
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Thu Sep 19, 2019 8:15 pm

Bit of progress!

Dust seals worked loose from the struts in prep for powdercoating:

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The other one was a little easier...

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After this, the backplates showed up, and I realised I ordered the rear ones, not the front. Oh well, front ones ordered and rears put aside for when that end of the car gets attention.

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The new piston made an appearance too and appears to be an exact match of the old one, it's going to rain on Sunday so that might be the day I sit and do the front calliper rebuilds.

Has anyone used any of the cheaper brand braided hoses? There's braided hoses for the front callipers from £25 to £125 on eBay (with £125 being the named brands) - I don't like skimping on brakes, but is there any 'same factory but no badge' stuff about?

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Struggling to separate these from the rack. I'm presuming it's just a flat spanner on it and usual thread, but they don't seem to want to budge. Some wiki and forum posts talk about a bent over metal ring/washer but I don't see anything like that...

The next stage is going to be doing the welding. I hated welding the first time, but I think 80% of the reason for that was the shit hobby machine I bought, that jams every 3 seconds. I spent way more time messing with the machine and wire tension than actually trying to weld. A welder mate has offered to lend me his spare for a bit, so hopefully picking that up tomorrow night - I'm really hoping it's like night/day compared to the old one, and I pick it up faster than last time...

With that said, need to get things roughly cut out. The drivers side got cleaned up around the edges and then some weld through primer:

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Had to do similar on the N/S, I don't want to disconnect or replace the fuel line yet, so the health and safety conscious may want to look away for the next image:

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With that out of the way, choppy choppy:

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It's really awkward to try and cut straight lines with an angle grinder, especially when you're leaning in through the door and the cut runs perpendicular to where you are. The N/S needs more tidying up to try and straighten the edges a bit.

You'll notice in the above pic I've got to deal with all the ridges in the floor pan. I can't decide whether to do multiple smaller patches (like two rectangles instead of one square) to try and make life easier meeting the floor pan, or whether to just heat the floorpan edge up with a blowtorch and batter it flat, opinions on a postcard...

Trying the former method on the O/S, I first knocked up a big square patch to do the entire area, and tried to use a hammer and my bench vice to shape it similar to the floor. This took an hour and it was a crap fit, so I threw it out and started again with a smaller patch. After another 30-45 mins of messing about I had something that roughly fits:

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I wheeled my little hobby welder over for one last chance, and it instantly stuttered then jammed before I'd even tried welding. On a completely unrelated note if anyone sees a Sealey MIG for sale in Oxfordshire on eBay, I'd advise not buying it.

My mate finished a majority of the front chassis strip, so that's ready for epoxy primer coat #1 tomorrow afternoon, then it'll get a 2nd coat on Saturday. I need to pick a standard silver aerosol paint to top coat it, anyone has any brands they'd go with, let me know.

The main struggle is forming patches and making them line up at the moment, I'm using straight tin snips and power tools and it's a pain in the arse trying to do straight lines or nice curves. I wish I had a guillotine. Also I've seen lots of people on tutorial YouTube videos using something I think is called a nibbler, something like that or a recip. saw might be better...

The last thing I need advice on (sorry for all the questions, I appreciate all the help so far)

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There is rust under/behind this. I think I can patch it as it's not TOO big a hole, but the ABS unit is sat there, all copper piped up. It's my understanding that once I remove pipes from the ABS unit and let air get in to it, I can't bleed it and will need a professional grown adult mechanic to come help. Not really sure what my options are here though, as I can't really weld or cut with it sat there.

Powder coaters quoted £120 for subframe and £120 for the struts/arb/brackets. Can't decide whether or not to bother with the subframe yet, part of me can't as I don't want the engine suspended outside in the wind/rain for a week waiting for the subframe back. Hmm.
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martauto
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Fri Sep 20, 2019 12:35 pm

Looking really good mate :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

On the ABS side of things, have a look in the tech section at the stickies as there is one just for you !!

Mart.
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Just got too old.
Stephenmoooore
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Fri Sep 20, 2019 4:18 pm

ABS unit won't need bleeding, other than as normal,as long as it isn't activated when dry. Even then it's easy enough with a couple of bits of wire and a little bit of knowledge.
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iDemonix
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Fri Sep 20, 2019 6:30 pm

Oh really? Thanks both, that's put my mind at ease then, I'll dig that forum post out too. If I can disconnect the copper pipes and remove it that'll make life a lot easier!

No real updates today, given my free labour a Friday night off, do a few bits tomorrow. Powder coaters are ignoring me again, so it'll be one more phone call tomorrow and if no reply they're getting wire wheeled and rattle canned. Can't believe how useless they all are, have rang, left voicemails and emails to multiple, but only one quote back.

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This arrived. I built it, we put it over the engine, and I've decided I'm not going to use it. It feels fairly sturdy, and if the car was in a garage then I'd probably use it, but the car is going to be sat on the drive in next weeks constant wind and rain, and I've not even got a confirmed drop off time at a painter yet. It could be sat with the support on for ages, and I'm not comfortable working in the car or around the engine when it's balanced on the wings. If I eventually do an engine swap in years to come, all my new suspension will be copper slipped and come apart easily, so I can get it done then. Not doing it also saves me removing the bonnet, steering rack/pipes, and £120 from my wallet.

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The dog wasn't happy, I forgot to order him more food, but I didn't forget to splurge a load of money in Bilstein shocks for the rust heap on the drive.

Shocks look good, and come with brand new collars which is awesome as the old ones are mullered. The last remaining pieces for the front suspension rebuild are the bump-stop and gaiter bit (en route), the springs (en route), and the front backing plates (at my local sorting office for collection tomorrow). Can't wait to see the car on four wheels again, even if it's only for half an hour.

Still need to remove the track rod end, going to pop an adjustable on the flat bit of the nut and batter the living hell out of it tomorrow. Wiggling it wiggles the other side, so it might be a spanner each side whilst doing it.

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The accessible bits of the bay that were wire wheeled got a coat in 1k epoxy primer, which I've almost ran out of already (my wallet feels warmer than the angle grinder). Looks a lot better now, Need to put a grey/silver top coat on, but not sure what to use. I'm tempted to just buy some generic Halfords silver aerosol as it's never going to be seen, and the protection to the metal is provided by the primer.

There's tons to do yet, but I'm trying to keep focussed on the front end/engine whilst it's in the air. The last time I ran the engine (1y ago now) it would idle ok, but when you revved it something was squealing like a pig under the bonnet and it sounded like a bearing rattling, a very similar noise to the bearing that failed in the water pump on my old 998 mini. I might whack the old radiator back in this weekend and fire it up, give it a quick rev, and see if I can identify whether it was the water pump or the alternator, as I don't want to replace the non-faulty one - or worse: replace both and find it was something else.

Whilst talking about that area, I don't think I'm going to put the big old fan back on the pulley, as all the cool kids seem to have an electric radiator nowadays. Hopefully that's an easy swap and doesn't require any custom fab/brackets, and I'm presuming it'll have it's own shroud or use the shroud from my old fan. More reading...

My mate with the welder was busy today, so I'm picking that up tomorrow AM, but then it's forecast rain every day for the next 10 days - oh how I wish I had a garage/workshop I could fit a car in... Hopefully whilst it's raining a powder coater will be sorting out my struts + ARB, and I can practice welding some old sheet metal on the bench, try and make some patches (which I hate), or rebuild the callipers etc.

Should be an update soon with lots of swearing and very badly welded plates in a footwell or on a sill/wing.

Did I mention I hate making patches?...
Last edited by iDemonix on Fri Sep 20, 2019 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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iDemonix
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Fri Sep 20, 2019 6:33 pm

Oh and I've found a bloke on the E30 Zone FB group that apparently is breaking a silver E30 touring, with the caveat being he's 300 miles away near Newcastle.

Awaiting pics and prices, and if anyone else is breaking a touring (silver, but any colour considered except 'rust orange') please point them my way as I really need a valance and wings, and at some point could do with both o/s doors and a tailgate. There's a nice condition valance on eBay for £175 posted, but I'll see what this FB man comes back with first, if he does, everyone seems to ignore me when I offer them money lately....
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Fri Sep 20, 2019 8:25 pm

Great write up mate, glad you decided to save it!
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