Lose camwheel on M40 engine

[BenE9]

I just bougt a 318i cab which the owner had been changeing the cambelt with very bad result , he admit he had forgot to tighten the bolt on the camshaft Wheel so he said the Engine was just running about 30 sec and then the engine stopt and he said he did not hear any metall sounds from the Engine.
And I can turn around the crankshaft and camshaft independetly from each other how much I want and I dont hear anything from the Engine or feel any resistance , Have the all of the inlet valves ( as I guess they hit the piston first ) alredy been bent so much they dont touch the piston ? The valves moves but with no oil pressure they perhaps dont open enough to hit the piston . As I have read when the cambelt break on a M40 Engine it´s just crap so I wonder how much damage is`t likly the Engine have. ? Is it a remotly chanse the valves/pistons are alright ?
Best regards Ben

[Jamesy]

In short I would set engine timing, refit cambelt, turn over by hand and if ok carry out compression check then you'll get your answer, if compression is ok, start it!

Can't recall ever loosening a 'camshaft wheel' when fitting a timing belt on an m40.

Andrew.

[Brianmoooore]

The valves moves but with no oil pressure they perhaps dont open enough to hit the piston .

Wishful thinking, I'm afraid!
The cam pulley on a M40 sits on a taper, and is not keyed to the camshaft, like on a M20, to enable the timing to be set accurately. The idea is that you lock the crankshaft at TDC, with a locking pin pushed in just below the starter motor, then set the square section on the cam to be parallel/right angles to the head, before tightening the pulley bolt to lock it to the cam.
Difficult to say what's happened to your engine, depending on whether the cam slowly moved on the pulley, or let go suddenly, which would be the same as a belt breaking.
I'd time it up with the old belt and see what happens, as suggested above, checking the compression on each cylinder.
Note that you should never turn the camshaft when #1 cylinder is at TDC or 180 degrees away from it. With the crank at any position more than a few degrees away from these two positions, you can turn the cam at will.
If there's no compression, then whip the head off to see what's happened and go from there.
As long as the price you paid for the car reflects that it's a non runner, then it's no big deal. Even if you have to change the whole engine, they're available relatively cheaply, and can come from other than E30s, since you already have the E30 specific bits.