Good evening,I’ve got a slight leak from the two pipes feeding the heater matrix inside the car , I’ve purchased the o rings in readiness (OEM) to replace but now I’ve noticed a very minor leak on the drivers side (I have another leak which I’m trying to locate so I’ve covered the floor with talcum power which has identified one coming from the heater ) so ive ordered a new one as it’s probably the last time I’ll go through this again.
I’ve started to remove the old matrix but I’m stuck , the pipes are plastic not aluminium ,I’ve removed the one pipe holding the control valve with no issues but the top pipe has the securing bolts facing the bulk head one of which I can’t undo and with it fitted I can’t withdraw the matrix .I suppose I could cut the old pipe on the matrix side of the joint but I’ll be in the same position putting the new one in ,can anyone help .
Thanks in advance
Heater matrix
Moderator: martauto
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Feed a 1/4" socket long extension bar through the bulkhead grommet beside the stub pipe, attach socket to bar and place on head of bolt, attach 1/4" ratchet drive to extension bar in engine bay, undo bolt.
When refitting, tape the small square nuts in place.
When refitting, tape the small square nuts in place.
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Bonymaenjack
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 855
- Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:00 pm
- Location: Swansea
Thank you both ,I’ll let you know how I get on
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Bonymaenjack
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 855
- Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:00 pm
- Location: Swansea
Just a quick update. the job wasn't too bad to do. It surprising how much gunk can collect around a "sealed " area.
To recap removing the matrix included removing the servo and brake linkage bracket after disconnecting the two clevis rods.(the clevis from the master cylinder had to come off as well) to allow sufficient clearance. Slacken the lock nut before removing the pin.
To speed up the process I cut the uppermost plastic pipe the matrix side as I found that the rubber grommet on the bulk head prevented even a 1/4 drive extension bar from lining up to engage the bolt.
Refitting was quicker than removing and I did as Supafly suggested cut a 8mm spanner down which I used for the one bolt on the uppermost inlet pipe.
The hardest part was replacing the pin securing the rod from the brake pedal .
To recap removing the matrix included removing the servo and brake linkage bracket after disconnecting the two clevis rods.(the clevis from the master cylinder had to come off as well) to allow sufficient clearance. Slacken the lock nut before removing the pin.
To speed up the process I cut the uppermost plastic pipe the matrix side as I found that the rubber grommet on the bulk head prevented even a 1/4 drive extension bar from lining up to engage the bolt.
Refitting was quicker than removing and I did as Supafly suggested cut a 8mm spanner down which I used for the one bolt on the uppermost inlet pipe.
The hardest part was replacing the pin securing the rod from the brake pedal .