Flywheel Plate Needed?

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ashje
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Sat Jan 09, 2016 2:38 pm

Ok so i'm putting the m20 fly and clutch back on the car and i'm just double checking where the round plate in the middle of the first picture goes or if it's even needed?

I've looked on realoem but unsure if i need to look at the e36 328i or e30 325i, there is also a large rectangular or triangular plate i don't have either and i'm not sure if it's needed.

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Thanks
Ash
maxfield
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Sat Jan 09, 2016 2:50 pm

The plate goes on the front of the flywheel, the bolts for through the plate before flywheel.
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jmc330i
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Sat Jan 09, 2016 2:58 pm

The plate goes between flywheel and the bolt heads, think of it like one big washer for all the bolts. And yes it's needed.
James
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ashje
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Sat Jan 09, 2016 3:10 pm

Okay so the order is flywheel, plate, bolts and then the clutch assembly can go straight on? There's nothing else needed after or before the flywheel?
maxfield
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Sat Jan 09, 2016 3:25 pm

That's correct.
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Motorhole
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Sun Jan 10, 2016 10:00 am

Large rectangular/triangular plates not required on a manual car.
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mark_i
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Sun Jan 10, 2016 10:14 am

and double check the spigot bearing at the rear of the crank is the correct size for the gearbox input shaft you want to use.
btw the white goop on your sump gasket isn't the best stuff to use...
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Jan 10, 2016 10:23 am

mark_i wrote: btw the white goop on your sump gasket isn't the best stuff to use...
That (excess) white goop will be breaking off on the inside, and gradually collecting in, and blocking, the oil pick up gauze.
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ashje
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Mon Jan 11, 2016 1:21 am

Brianmoooore wrote:
mark_i wrote: btw the white goop on your sump gasket isn't the best stuff to use...
That (excess) white goop will be breaking off on the inside, and gradually collecting in, and blocking, the oil pick up gauze.
It's being redone, the white goop is genuine VW stuff. What would people suggest that's better?
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Supafly
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Mon Jan 11, 2016 10:53 am

I would also change the long bolts which will be tight against the flywheel to hex bolts as removing them later on will be a pain if there isn't enough clearance.
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ashje
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Wed Jan 13, 2016 6:33 pm

Okay i've gone to tighten up the flywheel and the bolts will go 3 turns before going tight, is this correct?

Using an m20 flywheel with the big washer and i've used m20 flywheel bolts.

Supafly wrote:I would also change the long bolts which will be tight against the flywheel to hex bolts as removing them later on will be a pain if there isn't enough clearance.
Which bolts are these?
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:01 pm

ashje wrote:Okay i've gone to tighten up the flywheel and the bolts will go 3 turns before going tight, is this correct?
Do you mean that the underside of the heads of the bolts are only about 5mm from the face of the 'plate' before the bolts enter the threads in the crank, and then only turn three turns before they go tight?
If so, this is NOT correct, and you are likely to fatally damage the crank if you torque it up, plus you will likely end up minus a pair of legs if you drive the car with this fitted.
If you've used M20 bolts and flywheel, I've no idea what is wrong, unless it's simply that the flywheel isn't seated on the crank, but something definitely is!
As a general rule, the minimum any bolt that's running anywhere near its maximum torque, should engage with a nut a minimum of the diameter of the bolt.
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ashje
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Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:41 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
ashje wrote:Okay i've gone to tighten up the flywheel and the bolts will go 3 turns before going tight, is this correct?
Do you mean that the underside of the heads of the bolts are only about 5mm from the face of the 'plate' before the bolts enter the threads in the crank, and then only turn three turns before they go tight?
If so, this is NOT correct, and you are likely to fatally damage the crank if you torque it up, plus you will likely end up minus a pair of legs if you drive the car with this fitted.
If you've used M20 bolts and flywheel, I've no idea what is wrong, unless it's simply that the flywheel isn't seated on the crank, but something definitely is!
As a general rule, the minimum any bolt that's running anywhere near its maximum torque, should engage with a nut a minimum of the diameter of the bolt.
That's exactly what i mean, i thought it wasn't correct so did not torque anything up. It was getting dark this evening so i will have a proper look tomorrow and report back.

Nothing is catching on the back of the flywheel.
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ashje
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Thu Jan 14, 2016 12:20 am

Okay so this was niggling me so i had another look tonight.

The flywheel is sitting flat and is not fowling anything.

Flywheel = 10mm thick
Washer Plate = 7mm thick
Bolts = 28mm

But there is a gap in the crankcase from where the flywheel sits to where the thread starts.

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ashje
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Thu Jan 14, 2016 12:41 am

After a brief search i think i'm trying to use a shim from an auto setup rather than a manual, the auto ones appear to be thicker
jmc330i
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Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:25 am

willnz wrote:Your bolts are too short, end of..
28mm is the correct length?
James
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'93 318i touring 16v
jmc330i
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Thu Jan 14, 2016 10:59 am

Sorry, completely missed the fact it was an M52 swap :roll: :o:
James
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ashje
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Fri Jan 15, 2016 12:03 am

So i pulled another spreader plate from an m10b18 earlier, same P/N as m20 manual. Its definitely thinner and has made a difference.

I'm now at 4.25 turns by hand until it stops, at which point it's right up against the plate.

I believe the issue is fixed as the max the bolt can go in is about 6 turns (without the flywheel fitted) so by the time i torque up i'm nearly there.

The back of the bolt to the plate distance is 7mm at the start point, so for whatever reason these bolts are designed to go in less distance than a normal bolt.
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