Ello Guys,
Got myself an E30, 325 Cabby and needed someone who's a wiring expert, central locking has packed in and few other bits too. got loads of spares and just someone to come up to North Hertforshire, if anyone interested, please call me please:
07950 673 559
Thanks
Bini
E30 Wiring Expert Needed - UK, Hertfordshire
Moderator: martauto
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pac1982
- Engaged to the E30 Zone
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what are your exact problems, I'm no expert at all but have owned E30's for the last 6 years or more and always managed to fix my problems with guides on here or with the help of the legend that is Brain Moore.
I know it may look a bit daunting seeing all the wires etc but once you know what colour wire to do what with it all becomes fairly simple.
Central locking problems are quite common, not sure what your exact fault is with it but have a search for the red/black mod
I know it may look a bit daunting seeing all the wires etc but once you know what colour wire to do what with it all becomes fairly simple.
Central locking problems are quite common, not sure what your exact fault is with it but have a search for the red/black mod
1991 BMW E30 318i Neon Design Convertible (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 325i Touring (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 318IS (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 316i (RIP)
Hi mate,
thanks for your quick reply.
Central locking packed in, just stopped over night, then the passenger side door stopped working, cannot open at all.
Horn dont work along with water jet washer, central electric unit (in ceiling).
I had a guy fit an alarm and said the wiring were a mess, i then got a garage to have a look at it and said they cant estimate the cost as they wont know till they open up the car - i also think they taking me for a ride as they quoted me some silly prices for other parts.
Do you have links to vids or instructions on how to check out the wiring please?
thanks for your quick reply.
Central locking packed in, just stopped over night, then the passenger side door stopped working, cannot open at all.
Horn dont work along with water jet washer, central electric unit (in ceiling).
I had a guy fit an alarm and said the wiring were a mess, i then got a garage to have a look at it and said they cant estimate the cost as they wont know till they open up the car - i also think they taking me for a ride as they quoted me some silly prices for other parts.
Do you have links to vids or instructions on how to check out the wiring please?
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
The only "link" you need to sort this out is this thread!
Locking: Take the RH speaker panel off, remove the speaker, a piece of plastic inside the sill immediately below it, undo two cross head screws directly below the speaker, and ppull out the central locking ECU, complete with the triangular plate it's mounted on. Unplug the ECU and connect a 12 volt bulb between the red/black and brown wires. Does it light?
Horn: Turn the ignition on, remove the fusebox lid and listen carefully while the horn button on the steering wheel is pushed. Does relay C2 click when the button is pushed or released?
Washer pump: Pull the plug off of the pump and connect your 12 volt bulb between the purple/black wire and body earth (the terminal on top of the RH suspension turret). Does the bulb light with the ignition on? If so, connect the bulb between the two pins of the plug, and operate the washer button. Does the bulb light?
What's "central electric unit"? The LED panel above the interior mirror? What does it do or not do?
Ironic that an alarm fitter says " the wiring were a mess". It's usually alarm fitters, along with ICE fitters that are responsible for the mess. Pics will be good.
Locking: Take the RH speaker panel off, remove the speaker, a piece of plastic inside the sill immediately below it, undo two cross head screws directly below the speaker, and ppull out the central locking ECU, complete with the triangular plate it's mounted on. Unplug the ECU and connect a 12 volt bulb between the red/black and brown wires. Does it light?
Horn: Turn the ignition on, remove the fusebox lid and listen carefully while the horn button on the steering wheel is pushed. Does relay C2 click when the button is pushed or released?
Washer pump: Pull the plug off of the pump and connect your 12 volt bulb between the purple/black wire and body earth (the terminal on top of the RH suspension turret). Does the bulb light with the ignition on? If so, connect the bulb between the two pins of the plug, and operate the washer button. Does the bulb light?
What's "central electric unit"? The LED panel above the interior mirror? What does it do or not do?
Ironic that an alarm fitter says " the wiring were a mess". It's usually alarm fitters, along with ICE fitters that are responsible for the mess. Pics will be good.
Hi Brian - thank you so much for your advice mate, I'll be with the car tomorrow and shall have a look around and take some pics.
Since the central locking system packed in, i could open the doors with the key, but now the passenger door doesn't open, even with key - its completely jammed and doesn't let me turn the key when inserted.
Regarding the central elec unit - yes, the LED panel above the mirror, lights incorrectly come on to show there is an issue with lights, i can press the reset button and they all flash up.
Other Issues:
Speedometer is intermittent, sometimes drops and is always up and down, which is a big concern, luckly i only use the car on weekends. The previous owner has said he has given me the spare defibrillator that is needed for this.
Side electric mirrors dont work, long with indicators dont cancel - again, ive been told these are all electric issues.
Also, while I'm explaining, the starter motor wiring has an issue too, as the car sometimes doesn't start, Ive been told its not the starter motor itself as the motor doesn't make a gaging stalling noise as you turn ignition, but just doesn't want to kick start. Lights turn on in dash, but zero ignition.
Thanks again for your input, will check car tomorrow and give some more feedback.
Thanks
Bini
Since the central locking system packed in, i could open the doors with the key, but now the passenger door doesn't open, even with key - its completely jammed and doesn't let me turn the key when inserted.
Regarding the central elec unit - yes, the LED panel above the mirror, lights incorrectly come on to show there is an issue with lights, i can press the reset button and they all flash up.
Other Issues:
Speedometer is intermittent, sometimes drops and is always up and down, which is a big concern, luckly i only use the car on weekends. The previous owner has said he has given me the spare defibrillator that is needed for this.
Side electric mirrors dont work, long with indicators dont cancel - again, ive been told these are all electric issues.
Also, while I'm explaining, the starter motor wiring has an issue too, as the car sometimes doesn't start, Ive been told its not the starter motor itself as the motor doesn't make a gaging stalling noise as you turn ignition, but just doesn't want to kick start. Lights turn on in dash, but zero ignition.
Thanks again for your input, will check car tomorrow and give some more feedback.
Thanks
Bini
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hennared323i
- Old Skooler
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- Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:00 pm
What?Bini wrote:Speedometer is intermittent, sometimes drops and is always up and down, which is a big concern, luckly i only use the car on weekends. The previous owner has said he has given me the spare defibrillator that is needed for this.
Speedometer doesn't work properly, while driving the needle drops and jumps up again. ive been told that i have the spare part to change that, he said it was a defibrillator (located under the steering wheel area), but i cant find any info on that online, maybe ive heard wrong. I'm far from a mechanical expert and just learning as i go along, esp now its coming up with some many problems.
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hennared323i
- Old Skooler
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Speedo issues:
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ot_Working
Suggest you spend some time reading the wiki then post your questions in technical help
A Defibrillator is for starting stopped hearts
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ot_Working
Suggest you spend some time reading the wiki then post your questions in technical help
A Defibrillator is for starting stopped hearts
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pac1982
- Engaged to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 5330
- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: isle of wight
i think he was being sarcastic mate hoping you would post up a pic of a proper shed, but looks like you just proved him wrong, looks quite a nice chariot electrical niggles asideBini wrote:You're not the chap who sold me the car are you?!haha
Will get pics of inside over weekend.
1991 BMW E30 318i Neon Design Convertible (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 325i Touring (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 318IS (Sold)
1990 BMW E30 316i (RIP)
I have a similar issue with the speedo. Its usually the connection at the differential at the back of the car. IT gets wet and covered in mud etc, so over the years they rust.
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ot_Working
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ot_Working
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German-Whips
- E30 Zone Camper
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- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Berkshire
Any more pictures of the car? That looks really nice! 
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Copper, the metal that is used for the wires in your car, has a strange property. If it's subjected to sufficient vibration for long enough its structure changes at a molecular level, and it transforms from a soft, ductile metal to a much harder and more brittle substance.
The last 300mm or so of the wires from your speedo. to the sensor on the differential are subjected to a considerable vibration from the rear axle, and the copper inside this cable undergoes the transformation referred to above, leading to an internal break in the wire without any visible damage outside. It can be confirmed by gently pulling on the wires and seeing if they stretch.
This is the most likely cause of your speedo. trouble, with the broken ends of the wire touching or moving apart inside their outer plastic sheath as the axle moves under acceleration and braking, giving rise to the intermittent operation you describe.
The copper can be returned to its ductile form by heating it to red hot and allowing it to cool slowly, but since this is somewhat impracticable with a plastic covered wire, the whole 300mm of wire at least, complete with plug to the sensor, should be replaced, and spliced to the origial loom.
A suitable plug and wire can be found connected to the headlamps on a scrap E30.
There is another fault that gives an intermittent speedo, which is caused by dry solder joints on the speedo circuit board. This particular problem can usually be identified by the effect of thumping the top of the dash while driving to see if it affects the fault.
The last 300mm or so of the wires from your speedo. to the sensor on the differential are subjected to a considerable vibration from the rear axle, and the copper inside this cable undergoes the transformation referred to above, leading to an internal break in the wire without any visible damage outside. It can be confirmed by gently pulling on the wires and seeing if they stretch.
This is the most likely cause of your speedo. trouble, with the broken ends of the wire touching or moving apart inside their outer plastic sheath as the axle moves under acceleration and braking, giving rise to the intermittent operation you describe.
The copper can be returned to its ductile form by heating it to red hot and allowing it to cool slowly, but since this is somewhat impracticable with a plastic covered wire, the whole 300mm of wire at least, complete with plug to the sensor, should be replaced, and spliced to the origial loom.
A suitable plug and wire can be found connected to the headlamps on a scrap E30.
There is another fault that gives an intermittent speedo, which is caused by dry solder joints on the speedo circuit board. This particular problem can usually be identified by the effect of thumping the top of the dash while driving to see if it affects the fault.
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pacerpete
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Iver heath. South bucks.
zaust wrote:Well car is now in my hands, looks like a lot of little niggles bit should get them sorted.
Beautiful looking motor so hope to do it justice.
Sort him out a n/s repeater while you are at it Marc
Just wana say a massive thank you to Marc AKA Zaust for helping me sort out the car! All wiring sorted, MOT passed first time without any advisories and drives absolutely superb!zaust wrote:Well car is now in my hands, looks like a lot of little niggles bit should get them sorted.
Beautiful looking motor so hope to do it justice.
True expert and a genuine decent bloke.
