MOT - Headlights too low

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mk3-ralf
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:31 pm

Hi all,

after a bit of quick advice. My car failed its MOT as the headlights were too low and they can't adjust them back up high enough.

Is this a known problem that people have had before?

any ideas to get the lights raised slightly?

I don't want to fork out a fortune for new lights.

I work away in Glasgow 5 days a week otherwise i would nip over there and try adjust them myself.

Thanks,
kam-325i
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 5:14 pm

Known Problem.. The adjuster's tend to seize up over time.
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mcbonio
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 5:15 pm

I'm having the same problem myself, the headlight adjusters are a long threaded rod which becomes very rusty and seize up bad. The plastic components become brittle and can break.

I've had to purchase a good set of lights because of all this.!
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mk3-ralf
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 5:22 pm

if i could go there and unsieze the rods i could technically adjust the lights manually i assume?

is it not possible to replace the rods with a screw/bolt and adjust them manually?

i just want to get it through the MOT..any bolts i could wind/unwind or add a couple of washers to adjust ?
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 5:28 pm

you could try and put a few washers under the two bottom frame fixings.....
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 6:42 pm

New adjusters are readily available from BMW, and easy to fit.
Do you have a headlamp adjuster knob on the panel above the driver's knees? If you have, the system will almost certainly have failed, and this leaves the headlamp aim slightly to low, even if the adjuster on the hydraulic cylinder (which, unlike the manual adjusters, doesn't seize up) is turned to the fully raised end of its range.
The answer in this case is to screw out the threaded steel rod that goes from the hydraulic cylinder to the headlamp two or three complete turns, which will bring the headlamp aim back into the adjustment range of the cylinder adjuster.
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harry_p
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 6:53 pm

A quick easy bodge to get it through the mot would be to remove the two side grilles and add a couple of washers between the lamp bracket and front pannel where they're screwed in place, ten you have all the time in the world to fix the adjusters properly when you get it home.
cheers,

harry
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PeteE30Tourer
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 6:56 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:New adjusters are readily available from BMW, and easy to fit.
Do you have a headlamp adjuster knob on the panel above the driver's knees? If you have, the system will almost certainly have failed, and this leaves the headlamp aim slightly to low, even if the adjuster on the hydraulic cylinder (which, unlike the manual adjusters, doesn't seize up) is turned to the fully raised end of its range.
The answer in this case is to screw out the threaded steel rod that goes from the hydraulic cylinder to the headlamp two or three complete turns, which will bring the headlamp aim back into the adjustment range of the cylinder adjuster.
Hi Brian,

I have the same problem and I have the hydraulic headlamp adjuster system, which has long since failed. The problem I have now is that threaded steel rod is seized in the hydraulic cylinder. I had this problem at last year's MoT but I managed to free it up enough to move it enough. This year, it's seized solid and cant be moved. Do you know if this hydraulic cylinder/steel rod can be replaced with a manual adjuster without swapping out the entire headlamp unit? If not, I guess I could find someone with a replacement assembly.
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:01 pm

Yes it can be replaced, you just need an adjuster and new grommet. :D
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PeteE30Tourer
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:13 pm

So, part 1 in the diagram below

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=63&fg=05

can be replaced with which items from the diagram below?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=63&fg=05
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:14 pm

PeteE30Tourer wrote: The problem I have now is that threaded steel rod is seized in the hydraulic cylinder. I had this problem at last year's MoT but I managed to free it up enough to move it enough. This year, it's seized solid and cant be moved.
What's seized solid? The centre steel rod only has to be screwed out once, and then it doesn't matter if it does seize again, as the adjustment should now be within the range of the adjuster around the hydraulic cylinder. This adjuster is plastic on plastic, so should never seize,
As Rav says, the manual adjuster and the hydraulic assembly are interchangeable.
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:58 pm

PeteE30Tourer wrote:So, part 1 in the diagram below

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=63&fg=05

can be replaced with which items from the diagram below?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=63&fg=05
Those links are for the American parts numbers, totally different from the Uk spec ones.
You basically need the same Adjuster as the rest on the lights and a grommet.
Be carefull though, as the new stuff is a pain in the ar53 to put in as they are very very tight.
Both sides can be done in about 15-20 minutes.
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scallyally
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Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:05 pm

Steel threaded rods are locked by turning 90 degrees, (grip nylon collars with long nosed pliers). I freed mine off with a wire brush and coated with copper grease. The old grommets tend to crumble, and should be replaced or they won't secure the headlamp. Fit the grommets to the rods then carefully push them into the headlight bracket. Aligned mine at the mot station (cost me a fiver and got sore fingers! Even new rods are tight)!
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mk3-ralf
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Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:32 am

thanks guys...i will pop down to the garage on sat armed with lots of washers and hope for the best.

I'll deal with fixing the adjusters once I have the car back at home with MOT :D
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