snapped lollipop bolt in chassis HELP!
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BATTS91
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well i have a solution but requires drilling the coont out and the drill a hole in the floor to get to the hole and put a nut and bolt through and drive it dwn to my pals and weld the nut in and obv the hole too :/
What you need is some proper heat, then it will come straight out..oxygen acetylene is what is needed.
Google for a local mobile mechanic, and ask then if they have got the right gear, should only charge you an hours labour
Google for a local mobile mechanic, and ask then if they have got the right gear, should only charge you an hours labour
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B7
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Last resort this. Don't do it unless absoloutley no other way.BATTS91 wrote:well i have a solution but requires drilling the coont out and the drill a hole in the floor to get to the hole and put a nut and bolt through and drive it dwn to my pals and weld the nut in and obv the hole too :/
I'd be hiring an oxy kit and getting the stud cherry red!
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cecotto479
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Ideally you don't really want the stud cherry red, you want the captive nut heated as hot as you can get it. Loads of plusgas. Loads of heat. More plusgas. More heat. Mole grips or stillsons. It'll definitely come out. An oxy turbo mapp gas kit hired or borrowed will do it.
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/\ thisrhubarb wrote:What you need is some proper heat, then it will come straight out..oxygen acetylene is what is needed.
Google for a local mobile mechanic, and ask then if they have got the right gear, should only charge you an hours labour
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BATTS91
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right if i go for the oxy acetylene route any other tips , the last thing i tryed today was mole grips and because i drilled a hole in the centre one side of the bolt has caved in so getting it hot wouldnt this make it even weaker and the part of the thread showing snap off ? may make a call to tool hire shop tomorrow see what happens
Don't heat the stud! That will make it worse.
The captive needs the heat, getting it hot safely is another matter.
Drilling it out is the safest way IMO. It won't be much fun though.
If the shell has rust issues anyway, would you be better off scrapping it?
The captive needs the heat, getting it hot safely is another matter.
Drilling it out is the safest way IMO. It won't be much fun though.
If the shell has rust issues anyway, would you be better off scrapping it?

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BATTS91
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its not that bad of a shell actually just the usuaral box section has gone and a jacking point nothing really ive seen a hell of a lot worse repaired think ill try renting a welder , never used oxy so stick to what i know and can use
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Speedtouch
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Could you not replace the lollipop with just the one bolt (the snapped one will serve to locate it) and gently drive it to a place where you can get a nut MIG-welded onto it?
I've usually found that stuck bolts will usually succumb to the red-hot heat from local MIG-weld.
I had a 1992 Ford Orion with a totally jammed in wishbone bolt with a rounded-off head, and MIG-welded an old broken socket drive bar to it, which shifted it.
I've usually found that stuck bolts will usually succumb to the red-hot heat from local MIG-weld.
I had a 1992 Ford Orion with a totally jammed in wishbone bolt with a rounded-off head, and MIG-welded an old broken socket drive bar to it, which shifted it.
///M aurice
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ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
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EFASpeedtouch wrote:Could you not replace the lollipop with just the one bolt (the snapped one will serve to locate it) and gently drive it to your local weigh-bridge

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Speedtouch
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In situations like this, even a cheap MIG welder comes in very handy - can you not hire or borrow one locally?
///M aurice
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BATTS91
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thats for rounded off heads bud the bolt head sheared off ,
dezzy you take the pish i bet your turd has rust lurking the all do at some point the getting old well they are old, it was'nt so bad when i bought it but being on the driveway almost a year in all this shite wether hasnt done me favours water just sitting on it not running of in daily useage
i think my safe bet is rent a welder i think the local charges £30 inc delivery a day may have a look see if theres some cheap mig welders about for sale local
dezzy you take the pish i bet your turd has rust lurking the all do at some point the getting old well they are old, it was'nt so bad when i bought it but being on the driveway almost a year in all this shite wether hasnt done me favours water just sitting on it not running of in daily useage
i think my safe bet is rent a welder i think the local charges £30 inc delivery a day may have a look see if theres some cheap mig welders about for sale local
I'm only offering you the benefit of my vast experience. It sounds like I'm on a wind up, I'm not.BATTS91 wrote:over the stance thread issues dont think he likes my car lmaorhubarb wrote:scrap it over a snapped bolt ffs??!!![]()
Have a look at any of the resto threads on here. There is loads of them. Most started with a couple of small rust issues.
X10 what you can see and you'll be somewhere near

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x20 will bring you closerDezzy wrote:I'm only offering you the benefit of my vast experience. It sounds like I'm on a wind up, I'm not.BATTS91 wrote:over the stance thread issues dont think he likes my car lmaorhubarb wrote:scrap it over a snapped bolt ffs??!!![]()
Have a look at any of the resto threads on here. There is loads of them. Most started with a couple of small rust issues.
X10 what you can see and you'll be somewhere near
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BATTS91
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my cars no minter but its not a rott box either im not going to lie about it no need , there the passenger floor around box section usuaral place drivers jacking point slight bubble on rear valance , boot seal tiny rust and a pin hole in scuttle some may say its major but in reality and actually looking at it in the flesh its fook all ive seen on an e30 rear arches are fine which is a suprise , the car started life as a 318 is and mow m50 powered
na m8, ive pulled many a studs out with emBATTS91 wrote:thats for rounded off heads bud the bolt head sheared off ,
One method we use at work is heat the stud for quite a while, this heat would transfer into the nut. We then rapidly cool the stud/bolt using a can of air duster turned upside down to make it contract then quickly try to work it loose usint mole grips/ pipe wrench etc. Didn't work every time but worth a try.
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Speedtouch
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Should be more than ample for the job. I use a Clarke 90EN (90 Amp) no-gas one, and it's fine for stuff like this.
You can pick them up second-hand for far less. Be sure to test them first though, as the wire feed rollers tend to wear (they are replaceable). SIP ones in particular have a poor design of wire feed.
You can pick them up second-hand for far less. Be sure to test them first though, as the wire feed rollers tend to wear (they are replaceable). SIP ones in particular have a poor design of wire feed.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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BATTS91
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a little google on reviews show its made by sealey which is good , and an overall good base welder in comercial use may be buying a new welder instead of tax and mot this month and get alot of welding done i suppose






