CPS prob I think?

[m_jermyn]

Recently my new 2.7 has developed a stuttering issue just out of the blue. Reading another zoners thread with a similar issue he was directed at the CPS..

Now my problem is the CPS seemed to check alright, I checked the resistance between pins 1 & 2 and they read 555 ohms.

I had the meter on the ohm setting with the dial pointed at 20k.

Reading the bentley it says the CPS is within specs, problem is my CPS sits anot 3mm from the toothed wheel. I cleaned the face with a rag and it has improved things but not totally solved it.

This is as close as I can get the CPS to sit near the wheel without elongating the bracket holes.

Thoughts?

[m_jermyn]

Hey Will,

The stuttering is even and happens at the same tons every time, not so bad an not really noticeable from 1000-1700 rpms. 1700-2500 rpms it's noticeable and jerky at part throttle, WOT it's there but not really noticeable.

It happens cold warm an hot.

The instruments don't die but you do see the tacho jerk or pause when the stuttering happens.

When I checked the CPS the car hd been standing for 5 hours and the sir temp is 27deg today.

I will check the other things as suggested and report my results. When building the engine I did check the C109 plug and all looked A ok.

Does this so far rule anything out?

[m_jermyn]

Sorry for spelling using the iPhone doing this

[eltel]

sounds abit like fuel pump/dme relay problems which are quite similar..do as willnz says and bridge the pump relay etc

[TouringTash]

Is this after the chip change and nothing else mike?

Shoddy start for my boys eh

[m_jermyn]

Ok just necked the coil and results are...

Pimary= 01.0 multimeter set on ohms 200

Secondary= 6.33 multimeter set on ohms 20k

I connected a 12 volt light as suggested and at no time did it flicker when driving.

Still to check relays

[m_jermyn]

Just checked the fuel and main relays..

I bridged the pins as suggested with a wire I made up and the car still stuttered with both relays bridged

To be sure I have some spare relays and I swapped them in and still the car stutters

Whats next spark plug wires?

Oh and I have noticed when it stutters the exhaust pops just a tad..

[eltel]

test your throttle position switch.. disconnect the plug and test the sensor for continuity at the throttle closed between left and centre pin and again as it approaches wide open throttle between right and centre pin.. there should be no continuity in between. also make sure it clicks just as you move the throttle off it's stop.

may not be this but i had a back popping engine that was caused by the tps.

[m_jermyn]

Ok will test that today....

Also today the engine would completely die like a stall then kick back in with a back fire.

[TouringTash]

Sounds to me like its down to the CPS. Draft in a second pair of hands and eyes to measure the readings at the c plug whilst you give all the wires/connectors a good wiggle.
Is everything to do with the ECU seated correctly?
I doubt its a faulty component just loose or damaged wiring somewhere.
Do cars in OZ have anything we don't have in Europe due to emissions?

[m_jermyn]

C plug?

[TouringTash]

Sorry, was late and listening to Hussey enjoying himself too much at the crease.

ECU

The further up the cps line for a reading the better.

[eltel]

i think the c plug you are referring to may be the round socket plug bolted to the bulkhead next to the fuse box.. but there is also one just under the inlet manifold that causes alot of problems

[TouringTash]

Dizzy sounds a good call.

Mike?

[m_jermyn]

Ok today it had quite a violent shudder and the gauges did infact drop off a little then it kicked bak into life wit a wheel chirp.

This happened at 50kph and it did it 3 times before I backed of the throttle and eased it back on.

How do I check the dizzy?

[m_jermyn]

I also rechecked the

Coil
Primary = 0.8 ohms set on 200
Seconary = 5.80 ohms set on 20k

Bentley says primary should read 0.5 secondary 5000 ohms

CPS measured 522 ohms

I did this after car sat overnight so everything was cold

[m_jermyn]

It only did one big backfire when it was stuttering and I planted it out of frustration.

Brand new dizzy cap damn it... Will do the tomorrow and report back with my findings.

Thanks Will

[TouringTash]

Is it warm where you are?

If so I'll pack a few tools and pop over its effing cold 'ere.

[m_jermyn]

Yup 27 today, I gotta spare room

[TouringTash]

Now thats tempting, sister is in the US for three weeks but I may pop over in the new year. Surely it'll be sorted by then.

[m_jermyn]

Well I just had a look at the Dizzy cap and wouldnt you know one of the 8mm bolts was well and truely loose. Did it up tiht and toock it for a spin andddddddd.

Still not fixed. So im going to get my spare coil and see what that does.

Damn figgen shiit is upsetting me now

[TouringTash]

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

that hurt

[m_jermyn]

The hunt continues,

Just tried a second coil and still it stutters.

Will be borrowing a set of leads in a hour and see if that fixes it.

[m_jermyn]

Ok swapped dizzy cap and leads, swapped AFM and coil.

However when pulling the AFM I have noticed alot of oil in it, also in the throttle body and the air filter is soaked too..

With the TPS sitting below the throttle body it's fair to say this is full of oil too..

Any ideas?

[HartgeH27]

Mike,
Not doubting anything Will has suggested but I had a very similar problem and it was the multi pin plug beneath the inlet manifold. Laymans suggestion only !

[HartgeH27]

[m_jermyn]

Ok but why am I getting oil in my throttle body, AFM and even my air filter is soaked?

Crank case pressure?

I discovers the plug for the tsp and had oil in the electric plug there too.


Why do k have engine oil where engine is not meant to be?

[m_jermyn]

Ok if it was crank case pressure wouldn't the oil come up through that tube beneath the inlet manifold? If so it would not make it as high as the throttle body?

More likely the oil is coming from the breather pipe between the cam cover and throttle body? But why?

[daimlerman]

Oil will be entering via the breather system,did you fit nice new hoses with the re-build?
Good connections at the rocker cover?
Unlikely,but is the tube down to the crankcase clear?
'Proper' oil drain from the head clear?(thinking here is that oil arrives in the head and has no way of escaping)

[m_jermyn]

All new hoses and the tube with the spring on it that sits beneath the inlet Manifold was clean as a whistle when installed.