ECU was from a facelift C2 2.7 Alpina which is correct for the engine. Tried the 2.5ecu and it's worse with that.dano0 wrote:i take it your running an early ecu tech1 is the trigger pin still in the fly wheel as there prone for falling out or could it be in a diffrent position useing the td crank
just a few odd ball ideas as it doesent seem to be any thing simple
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B7
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e30topless
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I had a chat with simon about this while I was down there, it is bloody strangeB7 wrote:No, but this one was perfect on my old engine and if it was kaput, surley it wouldn't fire at all?Theo325 wrote:Sorry to hear this Tevor, have you tried a different CPS?
Therefore I'd rather find another engine, use my head, oil pump and anything else I can, return the car to a 2.5 and sell the 2.7 engine on for someone else to play with. maybe they'll have more luck. remember this has the pukka TD crank, pistons and the C" stamping on the block.
I just wanna drive the thing.
any way if you move it on I would be VERY interested !!
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B7
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I recok you are right. It's got to come out again! Thats why I'm thinking 2.5 back in and back to standard with no dramas.E30BeemerLad wrote:Trevor, pull it to bits mate and go at it again, for the cost of a headgasket set & bolts it's got to be worth it. A ballache, well & truly, but you ain't gonna be happy with something that wasn't what you were planning to start with.
Although I've just done exactly what you are having thoughts about, but ended up with a better engine.
Anyone won't a C2 bottom end?
B7's Motto. "If it's French, BURN IT!!!!!!"
sorry thought yours was pre face lift would say its electrical is there any one down your way that could do a parallel code Read witch would check all the ecu wiring
you'd be looking for some one with a ADP code reader
you'd be looking for some one with a ADP code reader
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B7
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I'll be in touch. It'll only be the bottom end (which is the bit with all the morsels in). Once I get a sound 325 engine.any way if you move it on I would be VERY interested !!
All a bit of a shame really but I neither have the time nor the energy to take this any further.
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The_Diddler
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Trevor, so its the C2 bottom end with a standard 325 head set up at the mo??
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B7
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Yes. No C2 head available. I'll be keeping the head if I go ahead with a 2.5. Thats just had a full rebuild and I'll use it along with the oil pump on the best 2.5 bottom end I can find .The_Diddler wrote:Trevor, so its the C2 bottom end with a standard 325 head set up at the mo??
Basically, it's the daddy of all cranks, the TD, 325 rods with the bespoke shortened Alpina mahle slugs.
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Simon13
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Remember plan B Trev. This 2.7 donk isn't being stripped sold just yet! Theres 1 more throw of the dice. Its a bit of a long shot but it just might get this thing going
I still have the bottom end off XMX, its mint. Main end shells are just unreal for the milege. You can have a look when we bring the 2.7 over my place
I still have the bottom end off XMX, its mint. Main end shells are just unreal for the milege. You can have a look when we bring the 2.7 over my place
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e30topless
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try stick with it after all the effort you have put in, fingers crossed it will work outB7 wrote:I'll be in touch. It'll only be the bottom end (which is the bit with all the morsels in). Once I get a sound 325 engine.any way if you move it on I would be VERY interested !!
All a bit of a shame really but I neither have the time nor the energy to take this any further.
and if it doesn't.... i will shoot down there and collect with no messing about just let me know
I had an M20 ballache a couple of years ago. It turned out to be the wiring under the inlet manifold was corroded. Fuel was getting to the plugs but not enough at the right time. Just an idea Trevor.
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B7
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It's seen 2 fuel injector looms and the one in the car was perfect.Dan325iSport wrote:I had an M20 ballache a couple of years ago. It turned out to be the wiring under the inlet manifold was corroded. Fuel was getting to the plugs but not enough at the right time. Just an idea Trevor.
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B7
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There could be a plan c as well. I'll bell you tomorrow.Simon13 wrote:Remember plan B Trev. This 2.7 donk isn't being stripped sold just yet! Theres 1 more throw of the dice. Its a bit of a long shot but it just might get this thing going
I still have the bottom end off XMX, its mint. Main end shells are just unreal for the milege. You can have a look when we bring the 2.7 over my place
B7's Motto. "If it's French, BURN IT!!!!!!"
Trevor, dont be hasty and sell the bottom end. There is nothing on it that will prevent it from firing other than lack of compression or timing. The engine that the bottom end from and ecu came from was a runner before it was stripped so i doubt it will be either of these.
Are you sure the timing is correct and that the crankshaft isn't 180 deg out?
I'm gonna have to come and look at this, bell me in the morning i.ll pop over tomorrow.
Are you sure the timing is correct and that the crankshaft isn't 180 deg out?
I'm gonna have to come and look at this, bell me in the morning i.ll pop over tomorrow.
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Dan318-is
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This is what i was getting at trev. Its an easy thing to do and would cause the symptoms mentioned.bss325i wrote:T
Are you sure the timing is correct and that the crankshaft isn't 180 deg out?.
Dont give in mate either way!
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Simon13
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how can it be 180 out? the crank pulley only fits 1 way, there is a dowel on the crank nose, both valves are shut on TDC on No.1
I've seen it with my own eyes and turned this engine over by hand with all the covers off. I'll eat my hat if the timing is out. Everyone says oh its simple, i could sort that and get it running! I hope they can too
All parts fitted came off running cars! head off pyf, inlet off the C2 2.5 breaker, trevs own 2.5 engine.....
Shame its not manual we'd tow the c**t up the road until it started with my touring!
I've seen it with my own eyes and turned this engine over by hand with all the covers off. I'll eat my hat if the timing is out. Everyone says oh its simple, i could sort that and get it running! I hope they can too
All parts fitted came off running cars! head off pyf, inlet off the C2 2.5 breaker, trevs own 2.5 engine.....
Shame its not manual we'd tow the c**t up the road until it started with my touring!
When you checked the timing did you remove the damper pulley to see the timing mark?
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Simon13
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its all fixed jon, the rotor only fits one way, as does the dizzy. We checked the lead order against my alpina. Engine has very good spark on brand new plugs. Coil is ok too
All that does is cut out the starter solenoid circuit.d6dph wrote:Nothing to do with the autobox inhibiting the starting is it?
Oh god that would bed6dph wrote:Nothing to do with the autobox inhibiting the starting is it?
But I really hope not.
It kind of would make sense with the manual? Ecu but Trev did say they tried the two5 one.
The inhibitor circuit doesn't go through the DME (ECU).Jon_Bmw wrote:Oh god that would bed6dph wrote:Nothing to do with the autobox inhibiting the starting is it?![]()
But I really hope not.![]()
It kind of would make sense with the manual? Ecu but Trev did say they tried the two5 one.
So has it been compression checked, this is the last thing I can think of.
Even if it had an imobiliser that has unknown it would have stopped the fuel or the spark. Have you checked the sparks with a timing light to make sure they 'fire' more than once. Engine earths good?
What an annoying problem.
Even if it had an imobiliser that has unknown it would have stopped the fuel or the spark. Have you checked the sparks with a timing light to make sure they 'fire' more than once. Engine earths good?
What an annoying problem.
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Simon13
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compression is bang on 190PSI on all 6. No we haven't used a timing light just the trick of earthing the plug on the cam cover and cranked it. We've swapped engine earths, they tend just to not start with iffy engine earths i've noticed
If compression is bang on then there is no need to get rid of the bottom end.
It will not be the cause of this starting problem.
It will not be the cause of this starting problem.
Clutching at straws here...but:
Has it been turned over by hand? If so was it more stiff than they are normally? All I am wondering is if there may have been a mix up with the big end bearings or main bearings(or indeed caps) and there is too much friction for it to get it started?
Also, on Pug engines, the big end bearing caps are UNIQUE to the conrod and when fitted incorrectly, they will not allow you to turn the crank. I am sure this is not the case as Trev is pretty miticulous, but you never know. 1 to 6 could easily be put in the wrong way round when you are working with a bare block on an engine stand(that is orientated strangly). I nearly got it wrong when I was grovelling under my 205 and could easily distinguish flywheel end from non.
Just an idea?
Compression would show up as ok, but perhaps take longer to get 'up there.'
Has it been turned over by hand? If so was it more stiff than they are normally? All I am wondering is if there may have been a mix up with the big end bearings or main bearings(or indeed caps) and there is too much friction for it to get it started?
Also, on Pug engines, the big end bearing caps are UNIQUE to the conrod and when fitted incorrectly, they will not allow you to turn the crank. I am sure this is not the case as Trev is pretty miticulous, but you never know. 1 to 6 could easily be put in the wrong way round when you are working with a bare block on an engine stand(that is orientated strangly). I nearly got it wrong when I was grovelling under my 205 and could easily distinguish flywheel end from non.
Just an idea?
Compression would show up as ok, but perhaps take longer to get 'up there.'






