Opinions/Experiences with EBC Greenstuff Pads

[Jon_Bmw]

You should never boil standard run of the mill brake fluid on the road. If you do, then you are a total nutter and dangerous. But logic suggests that if you are thinking of doing trackdays then it would be daft to not upgrade it.

Edit: Scrap all of this, I have just seen your sig.

[lunatixantix]

You should never boil standard run of the mill brake fluid on the road. If you do, then you are a total nutter and dangerous. But logic suggests that if you are thinking of doing trackdays then it would be daft to not upgrade it.

Edit: Scrap all of this, I have just seen your sig.

I'm a complete and utter nutcase!!

In all honesty I'm not all out mad on the road - I know my car and know my limits, and am careful not to overdo it so as to cause harm to anyone else on the road.

But seeing as this car is just a toy, it will be a mix of general "weekend use" and trackdays (predominantly drifting), and I just don't want the headache of having to remove wheels, change pads/discs, remount wheels everytime I take the car to a track.

I suppose you could just call me lazy

[Bob_S]

You should never boil standard run of the mill brake fluid on the road. If you do, then you are a total nutter and dangerous. But logic suggests that if you are thinking of doing trackdays then it would be daft to not upgrade it.

Edit: Scrap all of this, I have just seen your sig.

I'm a complete and utter nutcase!!

In all honesty I'm not all out mad on the road - I know my car and know my limits, and am careful not to overdo it so as to cause harm to anyone else on the road.

But seeing as this car is just a toy, it will be a mix of general "weekend use" and trackdays (predominantly drifting), and I just don't want the headache of having to remove wheels, change pads/discs, remount wheels everytime I take the car to a track.

I suppose you could just call me lazy

all 20 minutes worth yes?

[lunatixantix]

You should never boil standard run of the mill brake fluid on the road. If you do, then you are a total nutter and dangerous. But logic suggests that if you are thinking of doing trackdays then it would be daft to not upgrade it.

Edit: Scrap all of this, I have just seen your sig.

I'm a complete and utter nutcase!!

In all honesty I'm not all out mad on the road - I know my car and know my limits, and am careful not to overdo it so as to cause harm to anyone else on the road.

But seeing as this car is just a toy, it will be a mix of general "weekend use" and trackdays (predominantly drifting), and I just don't want the headache of having to remove wheels, change pads/discs, remount wheels everytime I take the car to a track.

I suppose you could just call me lazy

all 20 minutes worth yes?

Just to put it into perspective - Die Hard with a vengeance is on - seen it more times then I've had hot dinners... Too lazy to get up and grab the remote to change it!

[magpie]

i'm wicked and i'm LAZY!

that song springs to mind somehow

[lunatixantix]

i'm wicked and i'm LAZY!

that song springs to mind somehow

[magpie]

You should never boil standard run of the mill brake fluid on the road. If you do, then you are a total nutter and dangerous. But logic suggests that if you are thinking of doing trackdays then it would be daft to not upgrade it.

Edit: Scrap all of this, I have just seen your sig.

there is ht brake fluid on the market,

but only available to nutters

or loonatix

[lunatixantix]

I'm assuming HT means high temperature? Excuse the ignorance

Is there a particular brand or "type" of fluid? (I mean like reg brake fluid is dot 3/4 etc)

Will it make any difference to road use?

[Bob_S]

I use halfords 5.1 in my chariot and not boiled it

[lunatixantix]

I use halfords 5.1 in my chariot and not boiled it

Am I wrong in assuming that different types of pads/discs require different kinds of brake fluid?

How would I know what type to use?

[magpie]

no pads discs do not need spesh fluid.

but if your going upgrade brakes,then ht fluid is an ingredient in
the cake mix,like a cherry on a cake

[Fushion_Julz]

The "DOT" number only refers to the specification that the fluid complies with.

The thing to look for is the boiling points of the fluid in the specification sheets (usually found on the Internet).

The two top fluids in that respect are ATE SuperBlue and AP Racing 600

AP: http://www.apracing.com/info/info.asp?s ... Details_94
ATE: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ate/ate_ ... _fluid.jsp

Silicone based fluid is not really a good choice...Although it offers excellent pedal feel when cold and is not hygroscopic like most other fluids, when it gets hot it boils very quickly and looses effectiveness, even when cooled down.

You want a high boiling point fluid to avoid heat build up as much as possible....As the brakes get (very) hot, the fluid in the caliper cylinders heats up, in turn and eventually will boil...transmitting heat down the lines to all the remainder of the fluid...
Boiling brake fluid = no brakes (at all)

[magpie]

if your gonna go,
you need to stop,

[lunatixantix]

OK, so from what I've gathered so far, it looks like my way forward now is:

1. Rear disc conversion
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0381035932

2. Discs upgrade
Black Diamonds KBD 754/133

3. Pads upgrade
EBC Yellowstuff?

4. Brake fluid replacement
AP Racing 600

Is this all the work I would need to do to have some good "top notch" all rounder brakes?

Or is there anything else I would need to change?

Sorry guys I know I keep going on and on - thanks for all the info/advice so far though!

[magpie]

a good spec list imo

yellow or red seem flavor otm

[mt1104]

ATE super blue fluid has a really nice blue colour which makes it easy to change out with the old manky fluid (mine came out a realllllllly lovely deep brown colour).

I'm half way through a brake service on my car and I'm putting OEM vented discs on with some cheapo cheapo ferrodo 3466 pads I got off ebay for all of 15 quid with ATE Super Blue fluid. Currently I've rebuilt the rear drums so their working 100% now rather than the 10% they were lol.

I'm hoping for good results tbh, the fluid is the most important thing as far as fading goes along with pads, and road rallies are very very heavy on brakes as we don't have pacenotes and so have to errr on the side of caution all the time if we want to finish an event.

If you are going for a rear disc conversion, might as well get a z3 rear axle for the nice big discs, you will have a 5 stud rear though which will make things complication when it comes to wheels and spares.

[Fushion_Julz]

ATE Super Blue is also available as the same spec fluid in Amber so you rotate the colours at each fluid change...

[billgatese30]

I have never used super blue in anger (i.e. on the track) but have used motul RBF600 on the track and never managed to boil it, super has a similar temp rating though and should be ok.

the main thing with racing fluids (or those with high boiling points) is that they are often very hydroscopic and can take on water easily, this is what lowers the boiling point dramatically, and as a matter of course should be changed every few months and/or after every trackday to ensure top performance.

[lunatixantix]

the main thing with racing fluids (or those with high boiling points) is that they are often very hydroscopic and can take on water easily, this is what lowers the boiling point dramatically, and as a matter of course should be changed every few months and/or after every trackday to ensure top performance.

So could take out the element of being lazy

[billgatese30]

yes, if its for a pure everyday tootle about road car, decent pads will do the job for the odd quick stop, 2 minute blast up and about the motorway roundabouts etc, fluid is less important if youre not getting loads of heat in the brakes.

good high temp fluid comes into its own when on the track or when really pressing on at very high speed on open but twisty country roads, but it does require a little bit more maintenance

But to be fair, of you do two trackdays a year then change it before each one and that'll be enough, failing that, just change it every 6-8 months or so (unless you have been doing trackdays etc) and you should be fine, its not like you need to do it every week or anything

[George]

I found Pagid Fast Road pads v decent on the E36. Dusty though.

[Black_Potato]

Green stuff really shouldnt be used on track, they are a complete liability when they overheat.

[gareth]

just a thought, being a 316i, you'll be hard pressed to cook ebc reds in any situation so yellows may be over the top and a lot more work for the rest of your (road) mileage. i have a heavy car (m30 in a touring) and can cook reds at the ring if i'm being over cautious and over-braking into each corner because i can pick up so much speed again on the straights.
i use fresh cheapo dot 5.1 fluid from the local motor factors and have never boiled that, even after fading the ebc red's and / or mintex M1144's.

just for reference, when your barkes are hot. soft pedal = boiled fluid, and hard pedal but no brakes = pad fade.

the only thing i would say is that i leave the car a while between laps of the ring to let everything cool. i suspect a 30 min stint round a uk track will generate more stored heat in the calipers and fluid so be more prone to boiling the fluid

[Bob_S]

just a thought, being a 316i, you'll be hard pressed to cook ebc reds in any situation so yellows may be over the top and a lot more work for the rest of your (road) mileage. i have a heavy car (m30 in a touring) and can cook reds at the ring if i'm being over cautious and over-braking into each corner because i can pick up so much speed again on the straights.
i use fresh cheapo dot 5.1 fluid from the local motor factors and have never boiled that, even after fading the ebc red's and / or mintex M1144's.

just for reference, when your barkes are hot. soft pedal = boiled fluid, and hard pedal but no brakes = pad fade.

the only thing i would say is that i leave the car a while between laps of the ring to let everything cool. i suspect a 30 min stint round a uk track will generate more stored heat in the calipers and fluid so be more prone to boiling the fluid

The ring is comparitively light on brakes as opposed to a UK track day I find.

[gareth]

amusingly, i've still not been on any uk track apart from a 1/4 mile blast at santa pod

the cheapo fluid i use can't be bad though, if i can cook ebc red's on road or 'ring' before boiling the fluid.

most fluid problems are due to 7 year old fluid that's full of water / shite

[Bob_S]

amusingly, i've still not been on any uk track apart from a 1/4 mile blast at santa pod

the cheapo fluid i use can't be bad though, if i can cook ebc red's on road or 'ring' before boiling the fluid.

most fluid problems are due to 7 year old fluid that's full of water / shite

I agree. My 2.8 is savage on rear pads as I am still on standard and can destroy a new set in half a day at oulton. plenty of 3 fig plus to slow points! I am going to get some yellow rears. They came into their own at the ring after unglazing and thanks to karan for the braking tip