Respray - your ideas on quotes

[skipunda]

I've had to start saving for a complete respray.

What i'd like to know is the kind of prices I should be looking at..I can do the searches for types of paint required but lets say for the sake of argument Lachs Silver just as it left the factory.

Do you think it a decent cost saving tip to suggest to my painter I do the prep work i.e. remove all old paint and prime? Or is this a relatively straight forward job for a pro?

[gooner1]

Would be a relatively straight forward job for any competent sprayer, i would of thought.
But, obviously , the less prep work he has to do, the less you should be charged.
Only if you do it right though. What sort of prices were you quoted as a matter of interest.

[skipunda]

Haven't got the foggiest, gooner, but I will be going to see 2 different people soon. I know for sure that my favoured one doesn't have an 'oven' which is a minor concern of mine...

i'm looking circa 1k really...not sure what I can get for that

[Chris36]

My local guy charges £150 a side. And thats pretty decent (including prep) So I reckon £700ish for a good job.

[skipunda]

The sprayer is next door to my MOT man so I am hopeful I can roll the car from one place to another!

[e30_singh]

A decent bodyshop may charge in the region of £1000-1500 on same colour respray. If you want a complete change sills, shuts, inside of bonnet, boot etc you will be looking at more.

These days bodyshops get more money for fixing insurance jobs. Taking on private jobs is more agro for less money. The amount of time and effort it takes one man to do a private job he could do an insurance job and get more money.

Unless you know someone who just does private work etc.

[gooner1]

Had a couple of quotes for my cab just before Christmas,both came in at 2k.
Cutting out and replacing a rear arch was included in the price though, with me supplying the arch and paint . Was,nt shocked at the prices tbh.

[skipunda]

A decent bodyshop may charge in the region of £1000-1500 on same colour respray. If you want a complete change sills, shuts, inside of bonnet, boot etc you will be looking at more.

These days bodyshops get more money for fixing insurance jobs. Taking on private jobs is more agro for less money. The amount of time and effort it takes one man to do a private job he could do an insurance job and get more money.

Unless you know someone who just does private work etc.

Hmm hadn't considered inside of bonnet, boot being an extra cost but of course it should be....

The thing is it's just too cold for me to go DIY'ng spray work...leave it to the pro I thought

[fuzzy]

for a full respray youll be at the cheap quality end for anything under £1500.

[bss325i]

I would say the average price for a repaint is about £2000. You can get cheaper but it will more than likely be crap. Some repaints will cost more. What will determin the price will be the bodyshops hourly rate unless they do price work as well as the actuall amount of work involved. The more prep/filler repairs needed will obviously drive the price up as well as the amount of masking needed. The prep work is what take the most time up, not the actual laying of coats so if you can do the prep then this will save alot of money but if your prep is crap then the final result will be crap as the prep is more important to get right than the actual laying of paint. Poop prep will stick out like a sore thumb!

Strip as much of the car as you can for two reasons, one because less masking saves time and money. Two beacuse mask lines look shit and can potentialy cause laquer peel after some time.
Strip everything, all windows, trim, badges, lights, rubbers, handles, locks etc, you get the idea.

My repaint cost me £1600 but that was at staff rate of £15 ph instead of £30 and that was all repairs, prep and paint. I just stripped and refitted it.

Here is my repaint thread. It wil give you an idea of how much needs stipping, maksing, prepping etc and of what a top job entakes.

I am supper fussy with my sport and one thing i stipulated when i had the work done was for it to be flawless. It helped that the guy who painted it also sold me the car in the first place.

The same people resposible for my car also carried out the body resto on simon13's 2dr Alpina C2 2.7.

Here is my repaint thread.

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 89&start=0

[e30_singh]

Best job to get it resprayed in same colour to keep costs down. If you do want a complete colour change then it will cost more, although this can also be cheap depending on how much you minus from the job. For instance you could say you just want all the exterior panels sprayed.

Would look pretty wank though imagine having a lachs silver e30, and when you open the door all the sills and surround are red or something. Most people will think WTF?

[skipunda]

The prep work is what take the most time up, not the actual laying of coats so if you can do the prep then this will save alot of money but if your prep is crap then the final result will be crap as the prep is more important to get right than the actual laying of paint. Poop prep will stick out like a sore thumb!

Yeah, thats the problem, it's got to look great otherwise theres no point! I'll think about this prep work

[e30_singh]

If you prep the bodyshop might not guarantee the finish, they will want to prep it themselves so they know thats its done proper.

Check with who ever you get it sprayed from first.

[skipunda]

Yeah, will see what they both say regarding the prep work, maybe say "if you dont like any part of it, please go ahead and bill me for the extra hours fixing time" or something to that extent

made a couple of expensive purchases recently you see

[badassyas]

I'd say between £1000-£1500 too. which would become cheaper if you done SOME of the prep work yourself. By that i mean, removing arch liners, all lighting, door handles, bumpers(chrome) badges etc. i would suggest only going this far. because that enables the painter to paint up to the edges of panels etc and not just mask around things leaving a hard edge.
DO NOT to anymore like rubbing your car down or any filler work. because once the paint goes on and if things look ripply or react etc. the painter will turn round and tell you that the prep work could have caused it etc. which will more than likely be the case... and will be very reluctant to re-do areas needing attention. whereas if you leave all that in his hands, then its on their head to make sure it comes out correct. If you choose Lachs Silver you will have issues if a Paint booth isnt used (well about 75% chance) silver is the most wankiest colours to apply. Paints need consistent temperature etc. silver needs it the most. if it does play up, even though the paint can have been applied equally and consistently, it can appear patchy (some people call it Mockley) no matter if 2k or waterbase paints are used. they both can throw up this problem... hope this helps.

[gooner1]

Will have a thorough read of that Baz when i get some time. Not %100 sure i,m going to
go ahead with mine atm, but useful info regardless. Thanks.

[bss325i]

Will have a thorough read of that Baz when i get some time. Not %100 sure i,m going to
go ahead with mine atm, but useful info regardless. Thanks.

No worries.

[kieran325]

How about a quote from BMW themselves ?

I'm going to whip mine round for a quote when its up and running and I might be surprised -David Holmes BMW Stockport.

I caught the wing on the E46 on my driveway and the quote from BMW was very very competitive to say the least, a local repair shop wanted more than BMW.

[skipunda]

Ta for your large post, barry, will take a look at the thread dreckley