Head Gasket... Part 2, the Fix! edit: Running again!

[stonesie]

the new plugs are a different fitment, they're wider at the pin so don't connect properly. I may aswell do leads anyway, then i've fully completed the replacement of all major service parts.

The new plugs will probably have the cap still on them for modern HT leads, it just screws off with the aid of some pliers to grip them

Glad you got it all up and running though mate


Oh and fit a genuine stat, I fitted a GSF jobbie when i did my cambelt/water pump ect and it lasted 2 months before it jammed open... The genuine is over £20 but imo it is worth it to know that it's right

[Oggy]

Stonsie, cheers, done that now, don't I feel daft!

I've made a mistake, I didn't attach the rocker breather pipe to the TB before I fastened everything else back in, and now I've split the end of the hose trying to get it on.

Also, when running, she sounds a little rough, is this likely to be due to the fact she's not been run properly since the rebuild?

I really want to have it back on the road for this weekend but i'm getting so frustrated with it!

[Brianmoooore]

The split breather pipe will make it run rough, if there's air leaking in there.
The fact that it split means it's way overdue for replacement!

[Oggy]

I thought as much, however I can't seem to find the hose to buy one? What would it be called?

Ideally I'd like to replace all of the hoses, however due to unemployment, and finding it extremely difficult to find a job at the moment, I'm having to make do with what I have for now.

I've replaced everything I could afford to whilst doing the headgasket, so it's only the hoses really that are due for replacement any time soon.


The issue is basically when the throttle is pushed, whether blipped or slowly pushed down, the engine seems to stutter a bit before picking up properly.

What other possibilities are there? What should I check?

Thanks for your help

[Brianmoooore]

The issue is basically when the throttle is pushed, whether blipped or slowly pushed down, the engine seems to stutter a bit before picking up properly.

typcal symptom of an air leak on the intake side of things. The ECU doesn't get to know about this extra air, as it's not going through the air meter, so the mixture will be weak.
Check the big air hose between the air meter and throttle body as well.
Look up the part numbers of these parts on the ETK (online versions: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do and http://bmwfans.info/original/ )

[Oggy]

Brian, I'm in need of some more help please

I just went outside, started it up, and had a look around for possible air leaks, couldn't find anything obvious, so I turned it off.

Now it won't start for anything.

Could I have gotten something else wrong that would result in a similar symptom? Fuel lines mixed up perhaps? But if that was the case, why would it run a few times for around a minute a time, and move me off my driveway and back on again no problem (apart from the initial stutter)?

I should also mention that the oil light is on, dispite the level being fine on the dipstick. There is a little bit of water in with the oil currently, as I've not had it running long enough to be able to do the engine flush as yet. Is it possible that the water could be causing problems?



I've had enough with it now, I had no problems with my old E30, and whilst I wasn't expecting this one to be entirely problem free, it's been so problematic, it's making me not want the car at all!

Please help!

[stonesie]

I would check the wiring connections for the oil sender, if that's fine then sometimes the level sensors do stick after an oil change so you will need to get the oil hot before the float will re-float itself... As long as the oil pressure light is behaveing normally then it will be fine.


By not starting or anything, what does it do when you turn the ignition on??

Have you had any earth's off? if so then cleaning the contact points and re-tightening would be the first thing to try.

[Oggy]

I would check the wiring connections for the oil sender, if that's fine then sometimes the level sensors do stick after an oil change so you will need to get the oil hot before the float will re-float itself... As long as the oil pressure light is behaveing normally then it will be fine.


By not starting or anything, what does it do when you turn the ignition on??

Have you had any earth's off? if so then cleaning the contact points and re-tightening would be the first thing to try.

I don't understand what you mean regarding the oil pressure light behaving normally? The light on the dash disappears when it had started previously(if I recall correctly), if that's what you mean? It's just the oil level light that's on the computer I was unsure about.

I've had it running already a few times, and didn't change anything to stop it from running, which Is why i'm wondering if I have the fuel lines the wrong way round and previously it's been running off the contents of the fuel filter. Is that a possibility?

Cheers,

Oggy

[Oggy]

UPDATE:

I think I've just realised what the problem is. By sitting down and thinking properly and discussing it with a friend, I remembered that It'd run low on fuel just before I took it off the road, thus all the crap in the bottom of the tank has been flushed into the filter when I added more fuel the other day.
Which would explain the fact it did run, now doesn't, as there would have been enough residual fuel to run, but not to rev properly!

This would be backed up by the fact that neither fuel line squirts fuel when the ignition is turned on.

So it's not that I'd got the hoses backwards, it's that there's just no fuel getting through!

I'm off outside to have a crack at removing it now, will keep you updated.

[Oggy]

New fuel filter has been fitted, fuel is now getting to the fuel rail properly, and at pressure, but it still won't start?

[Oggy]

w0000p!

Started and driven down my road and back!

Still got the slight stutter occasionally, so some more leak hunting to be done, but apart from that, it runs!

I'll need to adjust the valves aswell, am I best setting them when hot or cold?

[leeparkes]

w0000p!

Started and driven down my road and back!

Still got the slight stutter occasionally, so some more leak hunting to be done, but apart from that, it runs!

I'll need to adjust the valves aswell, am I best setting them when hot or cold?

good feeling when it fires eh!

[bodger]

stone cold mate, needs to be stood a full day and night to make sure, set the gaps at 0.25

[leeparkes]

stone cold mate, needs to be stood a full day and night to make sure, set the gaps at 0.25

+1
they have to be stone cold!

[Oggy]

stone cold mate, needs to be stood a full day and night to make sure, set the gaps at 0.25

+1
they have to be stone cold!

I'm glad I asked, as the Haynes manual suggested they could be set either cold or hot, and even quoted different tollerences for each circumstance!

I'll set them tomorrow, run it to temperature, add engine flush, run for 15 minutes then drop the oil, change the filter again, and put the fresh stuff in.

Then there's the coolant flushes, a few replacement hoses and engine wise she's ready for the other additions including bucket seat, harness, E36 steering rack and pump, and when they arrive, my strut brace, steering wheel and Spax adjustable shocks and springs set!

Can't wait to be driving again!

[Oggy]

Right, I've done the valves, and they sound much better now, however, I can't get the water to circulate properly, dispite having tested the thermostat and bled the system a number of times, it still won't circulate.

Is it possible the thermostat could have died since testing, without having been used?

[Brianmoooore]

Have you bled from the top heater hose?

[Oggy]

Brian, yes I had, and it seems I was just being impatient I think.

Just taken her for a run down the motorway a junction and back, and the temperature stayed constant at just below the centre marking.

When I returned, I checked the hoses to be sure and found that the bottom hose was hot, finally.

Anything important I should be checking before resuming use as normal?

I still have to do the engine flush and oil change, then coolant flush, as there is still contamination between the two (hopefully just residual from before the rebuild!)

Thanks to everyone for your patience whilst i've been doing this, I know it's dragged out, but I really do appreciate every bit of help and advice given. Thanks again.

Oggy.

[Oggy]

Ok, now I've had enough.

I can't figure out if i've done something wrong, or if it's just generally buggered or what, but having just spent several hundred pounds on it, it still isn't right.

To add insult to injury, the cap has come off the pressure regulating part of the expansion tank, and as a result, I can't do anything with it.

So if there is anyone local who would be willing to give up a bit of their time to try and help figure out what's up, i'd be eternally greatful and would supply unlimited tea/coffee and biscuits throughout!

If it's buggered, how much would I be looking to put an M50 engine in?

[bodger]

Ok, now I've had enough.

I can't figure out if i've done something wrong, or if it's just generally buggered or what, but having just spent several hundred pounds on it, it still isn't right.

To add insult to injury, the cap has come off the pressure regulating part of the expansion tank, and as a result, I can't do anything with it.

So if there is anyone local who would be willing to give up a bit of their time to try and help figure out what's up, i'd be eternally greatful and would supply unlimited tea/coffee and biscuits throughout!

If it's buggered, how much would I be looking to put an M50 engine in?

what torque settings did you do the head bolts

[Oggy]

Whatever it was in the Haynes, plus the additional 2nd stage and 3rd stage turns as prescribed in the manual.

[Brianmoooore]

Brian, yes I had, and it seems I was just being impatient I think.

Just taken her for a run down the motorway a junction and back, and the temperature stayed constant at just below the centre marking.

When I returned, I checked the hoses to be sure and found that the bottom hose was hot, finally.

Anything important I should be checking before resuming use as normal?

I still have to do the engine flush and oil change, then coolant flush, as there is still contamination between the two (hopefully just residual from before the rebuild!)

Thanks to everyone for your patience whilst i've been doing this, I know it's dragged out, but I really do appreciate every bit of help and advice given. Thanks again.

Oggy.

According to this, it's all done! What's the problem now?


What on earth does this mean?

To add insult to injury, the cap has come off the pressure regulating part of the expansion tank

[Oggy]

I thought it was all done!

The cap for the expansion tank, with the pressure rating on it, the actual grip has come away from the internal piece of said cap, if that makes more sense? Meaning I have the cap off, but the internal bit still seals the expansion tank.

It may be OK, but until I can get the system flushed, I've no idea, and to be quite honest, I've had enough with it!

[Brianmoooore]

the actual grip has come away from the internal piece of said cap

Never heard of that one before! Was it the original cap, by any chance, or a replacement one under the 1996 safety recall?
If it's the original, it needs changing anyway, and your local dealer should give you a nice free one.

[Oggy]

No, it's already been replaced, with the number 140 on the bottom IIRC?

The cap holds itself onto the internals by 4 small lips of plastic, and now they won't stay gripped well enough to remove the internals, so i'm stuck!

[stonesie]

Well it sounds like it's buggered to me (the cap) so get a replacement and have a good look at it, then heat some needle nose pliers and stick them in there and let it all cool, then unscrew the remains.

Looking at the new one will help you to judge how far in to put the pliers and where without damaging the coolant bottle's neck

[bodger]

oggy you have pm

[Oggy]

Bodger, I've just got your message now, but i've repled

[Oggy]

I don't suppose anyone would be willing to take a photograph of the expansion tank from above, without the cap in it would they please?

I've got part of the old cap out, and i'm ready to order the new one, but I just want to make sure i've not damaged the tank neck by mistake