Full plastic arch liners like a modern car has would have gone some way to preventing the inner arch rot from being as bad if at all in the places it has gone.bmwe30mtech wrote:Fantastic work going on again.
Its so strange how most E30's rust in the exact same places, down to the cm!
Keep the pics coming Barry
Worlds longest Resto, my C2 2.7 19/3/18 Vent guage action
Moderator: martauto
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Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
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Full plastic arch liners like a modern car has would have gone some way to preventing the inner arch rot from being as bad if at all in the places it has gone.
had a smoke mate? read that!
had a smoke mate? read that!
That looks amazing, it's coming along so well.
Try using flickr to upload photos, it's much easier than imagecack, you can use the uploader tool which allows you to upload multiple photos in one hit.
Try using flickr to upload photos, it's much easier than imagecack, you can use the uploader tool which allows you to upload multiple photos in one hit.
Le Mans Classic 2006
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Bob_S
- Engaged to the E30 Zone
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that's some fucking awesome work going on there a credit to the bloke!!
Looks like it's coming on well Si, I know what you mean about not enough hours in the day though!!!
Looks like it's coming on well Si, I know what you mean about not enough hours in the day though!!!
Bollocks to this 24v scrap!
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daimlerman
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Thanks for this update Barry,we can all see where the money goes on a proper restoration now.Where did that inner rear arch repair panel come from,please? 
Youth is wasted on the young.
It was cut from a complete inner inner rear arch that simon bought.daimlerman wrote:Thanks for this update Barry,we can all see where the money goes on a proper restoration now.Where did that inner rear arch repair panel come from,please?
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B7
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Looking good guys. Shows it's thorough when your tackling stuff not found before. And I know Si went to town hunting for it.
Really brings it home re how many complete and utter (as well as dangerous) sheds there must be out there. This was a clean relatively rot free car. Barry, can you just imagine how bad your green pina must have been if we'd dug deeper on that?
Really brings it home re how many complete and utter (as well as dangerous) sheds there must be out there. This was a clean relatively rot free car. Barry, can you just imagine how bad your green pina must have been if we'd dug deeper on that?
B7's Motto. "If it's French, BURN IT!!!!!!"
I had a good nosey at the bulk head on the green turd and it was like a colander.B7 wrote:Looking good guys. Shows it's thorough when your tackling stuff not found before. And I know Si went to town hunting for it.
Really brings it home re how many complete and utter (as well as dangerous) sheds there must be out there. This was a clean relatively rot free car. Barry, can you just imagine how bad your green pina must have been if we'd dug deeper on that?
Even the roof skin had a hole!
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daimlerman
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Thanks for that Barry,I am teaching myself to MiG weld and bunged a small plate(badly) in the same area.Beardymatt was very kind when he saw it,just told me to keep trying!!bss325i wrote:It was cut from a complete inner inner rear arch that simon bought.daimlerman wrote:Thanks for this update Barry,we can all see where the money goes on a proper restoration now.Where did that inner rear arch repair panel come from,please?
Right here we go!
The dreaded sunroof tray! One of the lesser known rust hot spots as its not something you notice until its to late. The problem with this area is that it is only in primer with no other rust protection but it basicly for the sunroof panel to slide along and for water to run along to the drain tubes in the corners. What can happen is that the drains can block leading to water backing up the tubes and sitting in the tray or condensation build up from lack of use. It can spead onto the roof skin and this is when people begin to notice as the odd blister start to appear on the surface of the roof skin, by this time a repair can be tricky as cutting out a peice of roof skin and welding in another peice will result in the skin distorting in turn needing alot of filler to get some sort of shape back which isn't ideal. Sadly a new roof skin is NLA so be warned CHECK YOUR ROOF! To do this put the sunroof in the tilt position and with a torch, peer into the roof where the sunroof panel would slide into and look all around for the dreaded rust!
Here is the said panel cut out of the skin. The tray is actualy bonded to the roof skin and has 4 brackets spot welded to the roof frame.
The roof skin after the tray had been removed. Nothing serious on the skin, just some light surface.
After being cleaned up and zinc alloyed.
Before being bonded in place.
Bonded in and brackets spot welded in.
Anther previous "repair" had be done to the roof skin around the sunroof appature, why, who knows? Maybey an
attempt at breaking in? As you can see the layer of filler under the paint. Simon discovered this a while after purchase of the car as you could see the prep lines in the filler that had not been rubbed down properly before paint.
When removing a sunroof tray care must be taken when seperating the original bonding as it can dent the roof skin arround the area that it is bonded to but even with care it will still result in slight deformation in some of that area.
This is the roof skin after the previous repair had been removed and redone and the slight deformation repaired.
A shot of the A pilar and C pilar to show the orginal braised joins of the roof skin.
A skim of Dolphin Glaze, a liquid filler for finishing work on filler repairs.
Gary at work.
The finished repair in primer.
The dreaded sunroof tray! One of the lesser known rust hot spots as its not something you notice until its to late. The problem with this area is that it is only in primer with no other rust protection but it basicly for the sunroof panel to slide along and for water to run along to the drain tubes in the corners. What can happen is that the drains can block leading to water backing up the tubes and sitting in the tray or condensation build up from lack of use. It can spead onto the roof skin and this is when people begin to notice as the odd blister start to appear on the surface of the roof skin, by this time a repair can be tricky as cutting out a peice of roof skin and welding in another peice will result in the skin distorting in turn needing alot of filler to get some sort of shape back which isn't ideal. Sadly a new roof skin is NLA so be warned CHECK YOUR ROOF! To do this put the sunroof in the tilt position and with a torch, peer into the roof where the sunroof panel would slide into and look all around for the dreaded rust!
Here is the said panel cut out of the skin. The tray is actualy bonded to the roof skin and has 4 brackets spot welded to the roof frame.
The roof skin after the tray had been removed. Nothing serious on the skin, just some light surface.
After being cleaned up and zinc alloyed.
Before being bonded in place.
Bonded in and brackets spot welded in.
Anther previous "repair" had be done to the roof skin around the sunroof appature, why, who knows? Maybey an
attempt at breaking in? As you can see the layer of filler under the paint. Simon discovered this a while after purchase of the car as you could see the prep lines in the filler that had not been rubbed down properly before paint.
When removing a sunroof tray care must be taken when seperating the original bonding as it can dent the roof skin arround the area that it is bonded to but even with care it will still result in slight deformation in some of that area.
This is the roof skin after the previous repair had been removed and redone and the slight deformation repaired.
A shot of the A pilar and C pilar to show the orginal braised joins of the roof skin.
A skim of Dolphin Glaze, a liquid filler for finishing work on filler repairs.
Gary at work.
The finished repair in primer.
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e30bmlover
- Ac Schnitzer prophet
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- Location: Playing on the ring road!!!
she looking good si!! she will be one hell of a car when finished, im excited for you!
Bugger......
Another thing for the long list of things to get sorted!!lol.
Nice fix tho, it's coming into shape!
I knew it was buggered already but I ddn't think it was into the roof!!bss325i wrote:It can spead onto the roof skin and this is when people begin to notice as the odd blister start to appear on the surface of the roof skin, by this time a repair can be tricky as cutting out a peice of roof skin and welding in another peice will result in the skin distorting in turn needing alot of filler to get some sort of shape back which isn't ideal. Sadly a new roof skin is NLA so be warned CHECK YOUR ROOF!
Another thing for the long list of things to get sorted!!lol.
Nice fix tho, it's coming into shape!
Paul.
325i sport Tech1
335i Chromie - Sold
2001 E46 M3-Sold
1999 E39 M5
325i sport Tech1
335i Chromie - Sold
2001 E46 M3-Sold
1999 E39 M5
UPDATE! The panel work is now complete so just waiting for our number one painter Adam to be free to start the prep then lay some coats on the C2 but for now here's the rest of the panel.
The O/S foot well has rotted through behind the accelerater pedal pivot point so a repair here was needed.
This is how much had to be cut out. As you can see, what may look like a small hole can easily grow when you start to dig and having to cut back to good metal can look a bit
but to do a repair that wont come back usualy means plenty of metal has to come out.
As per the N/S sill repair, Simon supplied a secondhand section form another car to get a section that was needed for this repair, the rest of the metal that went in had to be fabricated.
Here is the Supplied floor section being cleaned up ready for welding.
A section of the inner sill had to be fabricated, here it is welded in then zink alloy sprayed.
The floor section welded in then zinc alloyed.
From underneath, the welding then zinc alloyed then seam sealered.
Now onto the dent and imperfection repair, after casting his well trained eye over the car, any area that needs work is marked with crayon then the repairs begin with being taken back to bare metal.
Nice rot free rear wheel arch back to metal. Luckily both rear arches and infact the whole of both rear quarter panels were in fine condition with regards to rust.
The doors required some of the same
The completed repairs in primer.
Even new panels sometimes need a bit of attention.
What colour will be folks?
The O/S foot well has rotted through behind the accelerater pedal pivot point so a repair here was needed.
This is how much had to be cut out. As you can see, what may look like a small hole can easily grow when you start to dig and having to cut back to good metal can look a bit
but to do a repair that wont come back usualy means plenty of metal has to come out.As per the N/S sill repair, Simon supplied a secondhand section form another car to get a section that was needed for this repair, the rest of the metal that went in had to be fabricated.
Here is the Supplied floor section being cleaned up ready for welding.
A section of the inner sill had to be fabricated, here it is welded in then zink alloy sprayed.
The floor section welded in then zinc alloyed.
From underneath, the welding then zinc alloyed then seam sealered.
Now onto the dent and imperfection repair, after casting his well trained eye over the car, any area that needs work is marked with crayon then the repairs begin with being taken back to bare metal.
Nice rot free rear wheel arch back to metal. Luckily both rear arches and infact the whole of both rear quarter panels were in fine condition with regards to rust.
The doors required some of the same
The completed repairs in primer.
Even new panels sometimes need a bit of attention.
What colour will be folks?
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oldroydsr4
- E30 Zone Squatter
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- Location: Warwick
This will be lovely
I dont think i could bring my self to driving a car this mint.
I dont think i could bring my self to driving a car this mint.
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daimlerman
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When this car is painted blue,we are watching the creation of a £20,000 Alpina.Take a deep breath,Simon, it will be worth all the heartache.
Youth is wasted on the young.
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Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
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Ta guys 
colour is decided but we will have to wait! either way some peeps won't like it but hey ho!
Went to have a look today as it's ready for the spray gun and wet/dry to start! I like it as it is lol
colour is decided but we will have to wait! either way some peeps won't like it but hey ho!
Went to have a look today as it's ready for the spray gun and wet/dry to start! I like it as it is lol
Think he's saying that an Alpina C2 2.7 has been sold on Pistonheads.
3 on there at the moment, under the Alpina section. One sold at £10,500, and two for sale, one at £7,500 and one at £10,500.
3 on there at the moment, under the Alpina section. One sold at £10,500, and two for sale, one at £7,500 and one at £10,500.
Currently slumming it in an E46 Touring
The two for £10500 are the same car. Ive seen it before it was restored.Gortour wrote:Think he's saying that an Alpina C2 2.7 has been sold on Pistonheads.
3 on there at the moment, under the Alpina section. One sold at £10,500, and two for sale, one at £7,500 and one at £10,500.
The £7500 looks interesting though, a metal bumper auto in gloss black.
Still has the branch and also factory A/C.
