E30 Zone

Are there any Zoners wanting a Quaife ATB diff for their E30?

If anyone is interested, I'll have a look into how much of a discount we could get for a group buy.

Are you trying to bankrupt me?

It would have to be a decent discount, I think I can have mine rebuilt to 40% lockup for the same price as a quaife and the bmw item will always be more desirable. Though the quaifes are good in their own right.

I am interested depending on price.

I got one for my 205 a few years back in a group buy. iirc was over 100 quid off rrp.

might be interested dependant on price

Maybe how much are they normally & what ratios can they come?

doughboy wrote:I got one for my 205 a few years back in a group buy. iirc was over 100 quid off rrp.

These will be well over £100

About £700 RRP

Think he's saying £100 off the rrp Dan. Think my mate bought his in the same group buy on the 205GTIdrivers forum.

The ratio is decided by what diff you build the LS unit into as you re-use the existing crown wheel and pinion.

I've been quoted £195+VAT to have the diff rebuilt and the preloading taken care of.

Come on guys, these diffs have a lifetime guarantee! And before anyone says it, you do get traction if one wheel is in the air!

Turbo-Brown wrote:Think he's saying £100 off the rrp Dan. Think my mate bought his in the same group buy on the 205GTIdrivers forum.

Yes, you're correct:) iirc I paid 4 something for it. Who was your mate who got one too?

Alex, so you have to send them your old diff, if so can they use an open diff or does it have to be a LS?

Miamistu

The E30 ones are about £700+VAT so if we could get £100 off that'd be great.

Really just need to know numbers so I can approach them and ask.

Don't want to say ten people if only three of us want them


EDIT> sorry Matt, just missed your post!

You can rebuild the Quaife unit into an open diff. The pinion just stays in the diff casing and the crown wheel unbolts from your open diff.

The only rub is that you need to either very carefully measure up the position of your old diff in the casing, or give it all to someone who knows what they're doing.....which is what I plan to do. Get new bearings and crush washers etc that way too.

iirc a quaiffe diff for an e30 was about £700+ outright to buy. im certainly interested in this. what do it mean about preloading? and what exactly is done or replaced during the rebuild? and whats the difference between an atb diff and a convensional e30 lsd?

E30 type are clutch pack ie full lock up as and when required, the quiffe diff doesn't lock up in the same way.

Wiki is so much better at explaining it than me:

Geared, torque-sensitive mechanical limited slip differentials utilize worm gears to "sense" torque on one shaft. The most famous versions are:

Torsen differential invented by Vernon Gleasman in 1958, then sold to Gleason Corporation, who started marketing it in 1982;
Quaife differential, sold under the name Automatic Torque Biasing Differential (ATB), covered by European Patent No. 130806A2.

Geared LSDs are dependent on the torque and not on the speed difference between the output shafts. Such differentials may be acceptable on dry pavement, but are not adequate on slippery surface

in rear-wheel drive vehicles, to maximize traction and make oversteer easier to manage (as in Drifting). Although, for professional drifting, a geared LSD is less effective compared to a clutch type LSD.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential

There should be a thing in the wiki page explaining how the "one wheel on a slipery surface" scenario has been overcome in the newer versions of the ATB.

Fuzzy, the preload I'm talking about is to do with the mesh between the crown wheel and pinion gears. In FWD cars it's easy as this is typically not adjustable, but with our RWD diffs, the side to side position of the crown wheel relative to the pinion and the back and forth position of the pinion relative to the crown wheel is critical to the life of the two gears.

There's usually something called a "crush washer" which dictates the position of the pinion; the more you tighten that nut on the input flange the more this washer crushes, moving the pinion away from the crown. They don't expand again once you've crushed them so if you go to far you have to start again.

If you replace the nose bearings you'd need to re-set the pinion position, and if you replace the output bearings, the side to side position of the crown would need resetting.

It's a skilled and fairly involved job which is why it'd cost £230 odd to get it done, at least at my local place anyway.

Should give you a diff that'll outlast the car though.