Hockey puck engine mounts. Postage on P3

[oze30]

Right,

After some person on here decided to disappear off t he zone, I'm going to try and do this right.

At the moment, Hockey pucks retail for roughly 3quid. I can get them for about half that plus post (1.50 GBP plus post for a single unit)

You will need to drill them, unless I can find a way of drilling them, but I won't be machining them down. (I don't see why you couldn't use these to lower the whole drivetrain. Use 4 pucks up front, and one and a bit in the box side of things?? )

Options.
1. Hockey pucks.

Notes:
-Washers can be used to fine tune the height.


Each puck is 3"x1" in size.

If I can find a way to machine these down cost effecvtively then I'll add that option too.

Costs at the moment are to be finalised, depends on how much postage will be and all the other stuff that's required. Once I find out I'll let you all know.

Anyone interested?

removed the options as I can't get access to the laser cut ones. but normal galvanised ones are a goer.

[Turbo-Brown]

Not sure how you're gonna stick a bolt into both sides of the hockey pucks so there's a threaded bit sticking out both sides, or am I missing something here?

[oze30]

you drill from the top down, not side to side and thread a bolt through the mount, puck, subframe then nut.

[DRIFTBOY]

I might well be interested in these.

I've read some very good reports from people using them.

[gareth]

thing is, with these, there will always be a direct mechanical linkage (the bolt) between both sides of the mount which will transmit the vibration through, bypassing the rubber. that's what it's there for. they'll be noisy...
oh, also prone to working loose too so some nylock or ideally aerotight (BMW M10 or M12 guibo fixing nuts) should be used to prevent them dropping off.

that said, if it stops my steering comumn locking when the engine moves across on left handers, it's a reasonable compromise

[oze30]

thing is, with these, there will always be a direct mechanical linkage (the bolt) between both sides of the mount which will transmit the vibration through, bypassing the rubber. that's what it's there for. they'll be noisy...
oh, also prone to working loose too so some nylock or ideally aerotight (BMW M10 or M12 guibo fixing nuts) should be used to prevent them dropping off.

that said, if it stops my steering comumn locking when the engine moves across on left handers, it's a reasonable compromise

Exactly young Gareth.

I have no chance of turnig left on roundabouts without it catching. That's how close mine is, But I'm using the Z3 rack. A little more noise wont hurt it. You'll be able to feel the engine note change when you need to shift up. AND you'll be able to feel something going awry earlier.

You could always put a rubber washer under the head of the bolt??? I dunno??

[suzie650]

You know I'm in. (just pucks)
But why such a long bolt???

Feedback on these is very little added vibration.

[maxfield]

If this will be a bolt on job I'm interested.

Let me know.

[suzie650]

Not at this time - You'll need to turn the pucks down to the right diameter and thickness.
Apart from that, it's pretty much bolt on

[oze30]

Diameter shouldn't matter. It's the height of the puck that's the problem.

Anyone know how to machine rubber down and what bit to use to drill through rubber???

[suzie650]

Normal lathe and normal drill should do

[oze30]

using a metal bit?

[jaffro]

a metal bit will drill them fine just start with a small bit first

[oze30]

Cool. I'll have a go and see how they turn out

[jaffro]

just make sure you hold them in a vice of some description so they dont spin on you

[oze30]

HEHE!

Done that before with a piece of metal. it sliced my boot open!

[suzie650]

Col, I'll have mine undrilled please. (have access to a lathe)
Thanks!

[oze30]

no probs.

[burrows]

hey chaps ive done this and its a good mod you only feel the extra vibration at idle. I made mine in my garage and used sickaflex before assembly inbetween the two pucks and the metal disks . its a worthwile mod.
thanks m

[oze30]

Ok.. Pucks should be with me sometime this week.
From what i can gather, an M20 mount is roughly 2 inches high, so 2 hockey pucks will cover that. Does anyone know the compressed height of the different mounts? eg M20, M10, M40/42, M30?
Can you please put your names down and I'll send details of payment.

1) Suzie650

[Dave_M3]

1) Suzie650
2) Dave_M3

PM on the way

[oze30]

Can you please let me know whether or not you need holes drilled. i dont have access to a lathe, so i can't help you there.

1) Suzie650
2) Dave_M3

PM on the way

[Dave_M3]

Sorry, I don't need the pucks machined, I can get the use of a lathe easy enough.

[UweM3]

I am using this since two years. Never thought it would be worth a while to sell it!
If you tighten the bolt up too much you will get more vibration. Just fit the nut with a little bit of Loctite and you will be fine. It didn't fall apart in two years driving round the Nuerburgring and I have seen 1.4G round the bends on my datalogger.
BTW the pucks can be turned down on a lathe without a problem (with metal cutter)

[oze30]

I have the pucks!!!!

Uwe, I'm making bugger all out of this. But at least you'll get them this time unlike some other tw@t!

[oze30]

Measured the height of the pucks compared to an M20 B25 mount.



As you can see it's about the same height as the original mount. I'll be pricing up the washers tomorrow.

[oze30]

Pucks will be undrilled, at 1.50 each plus postage.


4 pucks 6 quid
6 pucks 9 quid
12 pucks 12 quid


Suzie, yours are in the mail!


Cheers

[ric325i]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :IT&ih=011

i got those things off ebay and they are pretty pants to be honest. they have teh 2 bolts in them to stop the vibrations form being too much but teh bolts just spun. so me and carl just cut teh bolts out and put a single nut and bolt through.

the pucks could be cracking but why are you machining them?? 2 pucks drilled should do teh job or have i missed something?



p.s i wish i had just bought the pucks

[oze30]

Depends on what height you ned the mounts. Uwe has roughly 2.5 pucks. The standard M20 mount is about 2 pucks high. It's up to you how high/low you want your engine I guess.

[suzie650]

Well, if you don't put it pretty damn close to where BMW intended it to be, you'll be chewing prop guibos at a fair rate.

[ric325i]

Well, if you don't put it pretty damn close to where BMW intended it to be, you'll be chewing prop guibos at a fair rate.

i would not worry about that too much as the prop does have a nuckle in the middle section so its not that much of a problem.

think of the conversion boys

[UweM3]

Well, if you don't put it pretty damn close to where BMW intended it to be, you'll be chewing prop guibos at a fair rate.

i would not worry about that too much as the prop does have a nuckle in the middle section so its not that much of a problem.

think of the conversion boys

don't say you haven't been warned.....

[ric325i]

lower the centre bearing by putting a spacer in if your that worried.

[jaffro]

centre bearing would need lifting not lowering

[UweM3]

The magic word is ALIGNment. If you drop the engine on the mounts and not on the gearbox, the propshaft will not be in line with the gearbox output shaft. Moving the centre bearing up and down doesn't solve this.
You create more pressure on the layshaft bearing/seals etc. Your alignment must be spot on (more or less) up the knuckle joint of the propshaft. Sure this will not result in immediate failure, it's more of a long term wear.