Production BMW Build 320 - RACING!

[milescook]

Well I now have the 4 tyres and wheels Won't be MOT'ing until new year. But I have been busy.... taken from the website:

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After a bit of a lull, I bought some new calipers and brake discs for the front, to go with the Goodridge hoses which I can finally now install.

As a side note, I did try and rebuild my existing calipers. First job was to tidy them up as they were quite rusty. After some effort with a wire brush, they looked too far gone. Then I found a handy way of de-rusting metal effort free, using the old car battery, a mixing bowl, some water and washing up powder! Basically, electrolysis. After several days and nights leaving it on, changing out the orange water, not only did I find this was a great method, but also my calipers were so far gone one of the bolt holes as disintegrating. Oh well! So off to euro car parts I went....



So now everything is tip top, giving me much more confidence. I also bought some one man operated speed bleeder nipples from this guy - the correct size was M7 in case anyone orders the wrong size like I did initially! He refunded and was quick to dispatch. They seem to work well, though I either need to buy two more for the rears or just get a tool which might be better in the olong run.

By the way, an important top tip is you either have Girling calipers or ATE (shown below):




These don't fit unless you have the correct caliper carriers! Cheers to Eurocarparts and my contact there for quickly realising the issue and rectifying. Bought 4 wheels too with decent road tyres:




Now we get to some cooler stuff... for a while I've been working on the mandatory Marshall operated cut off and fire extinguisher, and they are finally finished!







I was working into the wee small hours, and I'm chuffed with the results. Hopefuly it all passes from a safety point of view. My only concern is the extinguisher handle is quite stiff to pull, and this is mostly caused by the curve in the line as the cable goes round the bottle to the handle - something that can't be avoided. I don't want to pull it too hard to test for obvious reasons!

[milescook]

And more....

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Just a small update, I've finally secure the race battery with a fabricated bracket. I'm not 100% happy with it, but it's solid and secure enough to drive around roads for now.



I might give the roll cage turret struts a lick of hammerite or a spray of primer. Also thought I'd show the story so far, against how it started...!





Slow progress! But getting there. I'm looking at getting a rear beam with disc brake conversion after all, the beauty of that is to replace all that makes it worth replacing the brake lines (you need 4 for discs) plus the tricky suspension bushes at the same time. So that could be the next update.

The scary thing is, after than I need sports suspension, race transponder and 4 race tyres, and I'm done! Wow...

[milescook]

Since those updates, I bought a complete rear beam assembley in very good condition, with trailing arms, disc brakes, pads with lots of life and 4 braided hoses all in one complete set. Pretty happy!

As they are now on my living room floor, I'll see if i can source the parts in the wiki that help you remove the old bushes from the trailing arms and beam itself. I want to go original BMW instead of powerflex for the moment. A lot of people are finding traction out of corners difficult and point towards inboard springs and not too stiff a rear set up.

I'm considering waiting until I've sourced some rear suspension before taking the old lot off and assembling the new, thoughts? The wallet will need a break soon! I'm not even sure what suspension I'm going for, and how much "drop" I need. More research is needed.

When I've fitted the new rear, bled the brakes etc it's going back on the road for the first time since Christmas! Will certainly be an interesting drive to work in it now...

[milescook]

Had my first project sponsor! Massive thanks to James Wallbank for his generous donation, and here is his contribution:



The new addition is a Longacre 17 inch mirror. It gives pretty good view all around the back of the car and to the passenger side front window!

Invested in some flame retardant padding, keeping with the colour scheme:



This is located anywhere my helmet might hit above, or my right leg. Not so much my ankle though, otherwise I'm ruuning out of room near the loud pedal. On the plus side, I now have a comfy arm rest.

Also this week:



So I bought a replacement rear beam complete with disc brakes, calipers (in great condition), pads, braided hoses and trailing arms. Only by dismantling the entire thing in the back of my Fiesta allowed me to single handedly take it out! Heavy stuff. So after reading countless rear bram removal guides on the interweb, I'm going one slow step at a time. Slow being the correct word...

I burnt, hacksaed, burnt, hammered, hacksawed and burnt again for good measure. The rear beam bush that bolts the beam to the car was going nowhere. So I gave up, went to B&Q and bought longer blades for my jigsaw. After 15 mins, the result was the below!



A bit of how powered jigsaw followed by ensuring I hadn't gone through to the beam itself, on both sides inside the bush, and eventually I was able to prise out the bushes that had sat quite happily in that beam for 20 odd years. I'll replace with original Lemforder ones to ensure the back end is not to stiff, rather than polybush firmness. These cars apparenlty don't respond too well to hardcore stiff suspension at the rear as traction becomes an issue, so I'm taking a recommended alternative route. I'm considering sticking to inboard springs rather than coilovers for the same reason.

Next up I'm ordering the replacements, plus the 4 trailing arm bushes. With thos in, I'll be ready to take the old beam off... very scary!

[rix313]

Just a small update, I've finally secure the race battery with a fabricated bracket. I'm not 100% happy with it, but it's solid and secure enough to drive around roads for now.

I used one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Race-Rally-RT ... _500wt_923

Also the scrutineers like to see yellow heat shrink or tape on the earth cables. Something to do just in case you get an overly anal one who hasn't had any for a while

[Sanchez]

Should the battery be on its side?

[milescook]

Is a dry battery so no worries about leaks.makes sense to lay ot down unless i see a reason otherwise.

[milescook]

Next some rear bushes work!

After a lot of research, I've begun the much feared process of the rear bushes replacement process. I have a new set of trailing arms and rear beam ready for a disc conversion. So I bought a trolley jack and set about removing the rear beam. So I thought!



There's quite a lot to do, and a very good guide on the E30 bible, otherwise known as the e30zone.net for the trailing arm bushes and rear beam. In a nutshell, I need to take the exhaust off, disconnect the driveshafts, disconnect the propshaft from the diff, remove the diff, remove the trailing arms (possibly take the fuel tank out first), undo the brake lines, and then finally take the beam off...

In a couple of sessions I managed to removed the driveshafts (cable tied so they didn't dangle), got the exhaust off and disconnected the driveshafts. Not exactly lightning fast work sadly.



After trying a G clamp and getting nowhere, I tried the clever DIY tool method from http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... Arm_Bushes and after a visit to screwfix and £10 worth of tools, the result is below!



Basic tools, first time I've bought 'threaded bars', well worth it. I've gone through two already though so glad I bought a pack of 5. The nuts chew through the thread.



I'd drilled into the rubber which probably made it come out easier. Winding the bush out into the large socket, then jigsaw-ing the overhang, then pulling the rest out. Very satisfying to see the bush out after 20 odd years.



Then with the help of a bit of fairy liquid, the new bush popped in relatively easily. Chuffed to bits! 3 more to go though sadly...

So next step is then the other 3 bushes, then getting the diff off and the old rear beam. It's pretty chilly outside these days so I'm making slow progress on the weekends.

[capri_rob]

Nice work

[rix313]

You don't need to have the fuel tank out to get the beam off mate.

[milescook]

You don't need to have the fuel tank out to get the beam off mate.

Interesting... apparently one of the bolts is very close so it depends if I can get a tool on there. We shall see. I'd rather drop the whole lot in one go but it's quite heavy and I'm on my own

[keri-WMS]

Small detail, but it's worth just checking which rear calipers you have - mainly to be sure you have a matching pair. The Touring version has bigger pistons than the saloon ones, and I suspect they are all getting mixed up on people's cars over time!

[rix313]

You don't need to have the fuel tank out to get the beam off mate.

Interesting... apparently one of the bolts is very close so it depends if I can get a tool on there. We shall see. I'd rather drop the whole lot in one go but it's quite heavy and I'm on my own

It might be the brake pipes that who ever it was was referring to but you shouldn't need to have the tank out. The prop buts you can undo by rotating the prop to access the bolts. Put the hand brake on to hold it still while you undo them otherwise you're chasing your arse. You will need to let it off and rotate the prop, then put it back on again to undo the newly exposed nuts. A bit of a faf but makes life easier if that makes sense lol. The nuts are also self locking ones to will be tight all the way off.

Once the prop is undone there's the diff ear and then the 2 large nuts at either end of the beam. Once those are undone smack the bolts through into the car (put a jumper or something over them otherwise they fly around inside the car as you have to give them some stick). It should then be free and be able to be lowered down on the jack.

Don't drop it straight out as you will still have the handbrake cables and rear brake pipes still fitted. Lower it down enough and you should be able to gain access to the brake lines. Bear in mind brake unions by nature are the shittest things known to man and are just waiting to round off and never come lose causing problems. You can buy special brake pipe spanners but from my experience they prevent nothing and the unions still just annihilate themselves because they are made of cheese. The handbrake cables slide out although they can be very stubborn if they've been on there. Some WD40 and a tug will see you right

[keri-WMS]

Bear in mind brake unions by nature are the shittest things known to man and are just waiting to round off and never come lose causing problems.

100% agree!!!!!

You can buy special brake pipe spanners but from my experience they prevent nothing and the unions still just annihilate themselves because they are made of cheese.

Mine have been pretty handy over the years (Halfords brake pipe C-spanners) - you normally need to nudge them clockwise, anticlockwise, clockwise, anticlockwise etc to crack them loose though.

[DanThe]

Bit of grease when assembling goes a long way

[milescook]

Oh cheers for the extra top tips all!

[milescook]

Been working on this nearly a year and a half, here's a breakdown of why (and it's not quite finished!) people say building is more expensive than buying pre built. More "fun" tho

Clutch replacement 550
Steering wheel and boss 170
Servicing parts 60
Jump leads 17
Halfords paint and rust kit 50
Wheels 125
FX,Batt cable, Bat cutout, switches 376.95
Paints4U 20
More parts 60
Bonnet part 11
Seat 270
Goodridge hoses 60
Harness 60
Aerocatch, harness bolts, pads, spreader plates 131
Fuel filter 10
Roll cage 1740
Halfords paint and rust kit 35
Bob empson garage - tow strap and harness spreader plates 136
Windscreen 40
Race battery 135
Paints 20
More paints 22
Screws etc 20
Fog blanks 12
Rear disc conversion 60
Yellow stuff used front pads 20
Wheels and tyres 80
3 subframe and 4 trailing arm Lemforder bushes 67
17 Inch Rear view mirror 55
Brake fluid 20
Rollbar padding 20
Front eccentric lolipop powerflex bushes 30





Total 5282.95


But... I have sold some parts too

Gear knob 5
Steering wheel, rear seats, rear door card 60
Boot carpet 15
OBC 45
Speakers and M Badge 15
Door cards 20
Fog lights 32
Sun visors 10
Matts 15
Aerial 17
Wheels 75
Fire Extinguisher 30
Rear ashtray 6
Bonnet strut 9
Bonnet cable 11




Total 365

Won't even bother putting the race wear and tools I've bought....

[Demlotcrew]

Wow! It really does seem like a lot when written down like that, I have seen prices rise for track/race parts well over the rate of inflation in the past few years, It can only mean sales have dropped and costs have risen and to keep the profit margins where they are prices have had to go through the roof!

I am interested in what these parts are?

FX,Batt cable, Bat cutout, switches 376.95

I have an idea (electrical safety cut off) but I had no idea it was so expensive!

[milescook]

Ok for that entry, there was a bit more than that, also FX was Fire extinguisher (about £200). Direct from my order history on DT:

1 TOTMA610-0002 TOW LOOP MSA APPROVED 70MM IN BLUE
1 LMA788 BATTERY CUT-OUT SWITCHES - MASTER SWITCH KIT FIA TYPE
1 LIF935-100-001 6' PULL CABLE RED T HANDLE
1 GRYGE344-3 STARTER PANEL AIRCRAFT STYLE IGNITION PUSH BUTTON STARTER & 3 ACC ON/OFF SWITCH
2 A/EPVC20R HEAVY DUTY 135AMP FLEXIBLE BATTERY CABLE (SOLD PER MTR) IN RED
4 A/ECTT25/10 10MM TERMINAL SUIT MASTER SWITCH USE WITH 130 AMP CABLE (EACH)
2 J/ANSQ NOVICE SQUARE (YELLOW BACKGROUND BLK X)
1 OMPCA303 **NLA** MECHANICAL CONTROL STEEL BOTTLE 4.25-LTR ECOLIFE

[Demlotcrew]

Oh I see! The Fire Extinguisher is the bulk of that purchase! That's more like it.

I have been researching an electronic remote cut off, and the best I could find was this on eBay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150760655580? ... 1423.l2649

Because of the battery location and connection type, I want a simple "Master" cut off and theres nothing simpler than an electronic one.

Im in two minds as it will effectively be adding weight to the car and I don't need it other than from a safety aspect.

Andrew

[milescook]

Use a pull handle, much simpler and less expensive

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... ery+cutoff

That followed my adventures - probably looks much more compliacted than it was. I did this in the end:




Sorry just re-read your comments on batter location. I guess it would still be pretty simple though? Still one live cable from the battery but diverted into the cab first, as I guess you have it in the boot?

[Demlotcrew]

I was just going to "break" the main earth going to the battery (killing all power), Is the start button an FIA/MSA requirement?

Does the On/Off red Protective Switch cut the engine? Was this cutting the Coil or power to the ECU? Have you had to remove the steering lock?

[milescook]

Other more informed people will correct me I'm sure but here goes...

The only MSA requirement is the marshal operated and internally operated battery isolation gadget - in whatever form that takes your fancy. The start button and ignition switch was purely because I was having to route the ignition cables through the cutoff - you can isolate the battery but the car will still run (as i accidently found out - apparently it's not good for the car ) as it's still getting power from the alternator. You need to isolate the battery and also cut the ignition i.e. coil. That's partly why the FIA approved cutoffs have a few terminals. It also diverts residual current back to earth when used but lets not complicate things...

So rather than hijack my ignition before passing it on, I just decided to cut into the loom, the car ends went to the cut off and then the new switch through the power, the other ends from the ignition were just covered up. You also need some other wires from the ignition connected to the new "ignition" switch to do this.

Streering lock is as-is. Another anti theft measure I guess, you could start the car but the steering lock would still be on without the key.

[Demlotcrew]

Cool thanks, that all makes sense.

I was simply going to intersect the .5 gauge Green wire coming from the C101 which supplies HOT On Run +12v to the Main ECU Relay with a simple rocker switch which will also activate/deactivate the remote battery isolation cutoff at the same time.

This way I have minimal wiring, minimal weight and the safety of cutting the engine and the main battery at the same time.

Sounds more complicated than it actually is!

[Duke137]

I just read your list of from your "spend"

All I can say is WOW, I reckon my list would be 3 times as long and as expensive (for my 24V road car) but I dare not even attempt to add it up for fear of shitting myself

[milescook]

I have been a bit tight are where i can

[Brian28]

It's not all about spend though, no point in spending more on something that isn't going to make the car quicker/more reliable just for the sake of spending more. Get the car into a condition where it will pass scrutineering, you will get a lot faster from being out there driving it than you would sitting out a season to afford more expensive shiny go faster bits. I stuck a PBMW car together for the 2007 season on a miniscule budget buying used bits from here, pistonheads, ebay etc. One of the best cars I ever had, nice drive, really reliable, and regular top ten finishes. Change (but not much!) out of £1350, with reasonable DIY kit and a bit of luck in finding bits. I bought the base car as a £100 breaker, so you'd need to allow for E30 price inflation

[milescook]

You don't need to have the fuel tank out to get the beam off mate.

Interesting... apparently one of the bolts is very close so it depends if I can get a tool on there. We shall see. I'd rather drop the whole lot in one go but it's quite heavy and I'm on my own

It might be the brake pipes that who ever it was was referring to but you shouldn't need to have the tank out....

Damnit



Somone else has this problem?

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=229859

Suggestions? Could I just move the filler pipe itself?

And Brian28 - fair play! I don't think there's a point in buying everything brand new, as people make more back from their cars to move on to the next, by selling parts rather than the whole car.

[Demlotcrew]

Just take the rubber filler hose off and the bolt will just miss the tank filler funnel.

[milescook]

Ta!

[rix313]

You all sorted now dude?

I was just going to "break" the main earth going to the battery (killing all power)

A note on this. Doing such a thing would potentially cause the following to happen: 1. the engine continues to run on the power from the alternator. 2. the alternator spikes the electronics and buggers it up.

The main concern to the motorsport governing bodies and scrutineers is the fact that there is the chance the car will continue to run if its been shunted. The kill switches you can buy which have the diode packs on them (like the one Mr Cook has) intersect with the ignition as well as the main battery feed. So when the switch is flipped it cuts the ignition stopping the engine (and the alternator spinning and thus creating power) and then cuts the battery power for good measure to stop anything else going on.

I went the uber simple option and ran a new cable from the alternator to the side of the kill switch the battery was connected to, then ran a cable from the other side of the switch to the existing live feed loom. What this achieves is when the switch is pulled, any power from the battery or alternator is completely isolated from any of the vehicles electrics; any charge from the alternator just gets dumped into the battery and no harm done. The downside however is having to run another cable.

[milescook]

Hoping to pick up my rear beam with new bushes from the local garage.this weekend looks ok weather wise so hoping to get the old beam off and new beam and arms on. Also source some used Gaza gold to pickup in the new year

[Demlotcrew]

You all sorted now dude?

I was just going to "break" the main earth going to the battery (killing all power)

A note on this. Doing such a thing would potentially cause the following to happen: 1. the engine continues to run on the power from the alternator. 2. the alternator spikes the electronics and buggers it up.

The main concern to the motorsport governing bodies and scrutineers is the fact that there is the chance the car will continue to run if its been shunted. The kill switches you can buy which have the diode packs on them (like the one Mr Cook has) intersect with the ignition as well as the main battery feed. So when the switch is flipped it cuts the ignition stopping the engine (and the alternator spinning and thus creating power) and then cuts the battery power for good measure to stop anything else going on.

I went the uber simple option and ran a new cable from the alternator to the side of the kill switch the battery was connected to, then ran a cable from the other side of the switch to the existing live feed loom. What this achieves is when the switch is pulled, any power from the battery or alternator is completely isolated from any of the vehicles electrics; any charge from the alternator just gets dumped into the battery and no harm done. The downside however is having to run another cable.

That's all good but its too much extra unnecessary weight and no possibility of having more than one kill switch without running cables. I agree isolating the battery may not in all cases stop the engine from running.

Like I said, the remote electronic isolator I linked to will cut the battery power and the power to the ECU, this will stop everything dead and you can add as many remote kill switches as you like.

[milescook]

Took the local garage 15 mins, after me cocking around for hours! Top tip there...

Stay sunny this weekend please I have work to do!!

[Demlotcrew]

They have installed the bush upside down!







































Joke!