M3 S62 4X4!!! Glutton for punishment!
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:34 pm
The Plan: Build the S62 into my Bronzit LHD, and attempt to make it 4 wheel drive ! 
I have been doing loads of research and chatting with the guys on R3v based in the US who are doing similar projects using slightly different methods.
I've made a start at least
So, The ingredients:
1X E30 (standard to begin with, then into the M3 if it succeeds)
1x S62
1x BMW V8 Auto transmission Bellhousing
1x clutch and flywheel combo. Most likely to be something heavy duty with lightweight flywheel and 240mm friction plate.
1x Getrag 265 5 speed overdrive box from US spec E30 M3 and some other cars (non-dogleg)
1x X5 sump
1x X5 oil pump
1x X5 Front drive Shaft
1x X5 front diff with tall Ratio (168 case Z3 lsd internals can be used)
1x E34 Transfer case with Variable resistor control mechanism as I haven’t yet figured out how to use the ABS sensors to lock it up automatically.
1X E34 Front drive shaft
1X complete front end of an e30 IX (struts, wishbones, subframe, etc)
2x Adjustable camber and caster top mounts to make up for the angular difference between ix and standard struts.
Its not going to be quite enough the match that of the ix. The angular difference in the strut was for 4x4 straight line acceleration improvments. To be honest even though im building this monster id still like a fair bit of forward aim for improved strength during braking. (I'm gonna need it)
1x modified ecu to trick the complex S62 oil pan electronics into not causing issues and limp modes etc.
Yes it would be easier to do this to an E30ix, but I'm not doing that! I want to eventually transplant all this to the m3 so need to succeed by keeping the setup as close to the m3 as poss.
As my bronzits’ s54 engine kit has sold I thought it would be a perfect candidate for this attempt. This leaves me the M3 as a working daily driver until ready. If I succeed I will then drive the s62 for a bit whilst getting the M3 sorted. I may then swap both engines with one another if I find I like the way the S62 AWD drives. Leaving me an s14’d Bronzit daily driver, and a beastly E30 M3 S62 AWD
I have had the engine for a while, 70k odd miles out of a 2001 model. Stripped down and put on stand, flipped upside down to swap out the sump and pump.
The S62 sump has a G-force directed oil suction system whereby it has a total of 5 pick up points throughout the sump, 1 on main pump pick up, 2 magnetic valved channels again leading into the master pump via the upper sumps wall, and 2 at the rear with the same sort of system. The valves move around in a screw like fashion determining which ”˜point’ the oil must be picked up from.
As the e30 chassis has no G-meter built in, this system will not work anyways! no matter how sideways you’re going This is a good thing for me as the x5 sump I’m using has NONE of the above, Just a pick up! The x5 pump consequently also has to be used (need on for a trial fit before purchasing new one). Not only because the oil channels will no longer exist but also because the mounting of the pump is specific to the sump.
There have been some concerns raised about the pump in terms of sufficiency for oil delivery on an engine like the s62. As the vanos units have there own high pressure pumps it will be a case of ensuring the main components are well oiled. May have to incorporate an Accusump or similar to ensure oil pressure is maintained.
Next: Due to the length of the Getrag 420 (6 speed m5 box) different sizes of output shafts and lack of mounting bolt holes on the rear of the box I have decided to use the Getrag 265, The us version of the e30 m3 Overdrive box. These boxes are notoriously indestructible and have been used in applications of 800hp + from the research I’ve done! The main reason for choosing it is it has a detachable bell housing, rear housing and lots of bolt holes and mounting points at the rear. When the time comes to fit the transfer case It will be a case of making a plate to mate the two. If this fails the rear section of the e34 gbox (which is made to mount the tCase) Will be Modified and attached to the back of the box. I will create extra anchor points to the rear casing bolts to ensure its on it good and proppa!.
The bell housing is needed as the v8 has a different bolt pattern to i6’s. And being a removable one getting it to fit should be fairly plausible with some chopping, and making of adapter plates. Clutch wise its will need to be an e30 m3 240mm spec’d clutch, and e34 m5 pressure plate. More on this later.
The E34 Transfer case plug. This will activate the electromagnet giving me lockup. Probably wire this into a potentiometer until I can figure out a way of controlling it based on slip.
The output of the transfer case to the front diff (line of drive) is originally straight on standard E34 ix’s and X5’s, Ie no Cv joints etc. Because I am using a diff with a v8 the x5’s diff centre line is about 10cms further over to then the inline 6 awd bmws. This means I will need a double cv jointed front prop (eventually).
I have no idea what steering rack I can use yet. I know the likes of e30 and e36 racks foul between the diff and the steering knuckle. The chaps in the US have tried and failed. So more on that in a few months.
Next is the e30 Ix stuff. So, struts, wishbones, and subframe. The Subframe is the tricky part. Later e30’s apparently came with the corrects holes for both standard and Ix front subframes and is just a case of bolting them up. However both the Bronzit and the M3 are pre-facelift and lack the front holes needed. So what will be happening here is I will be getting a block of steel, drilling and tapping it, bolting it up to the subframe nice and snug and then cutting some of the bottom section of the front chassis rails, allowing the ”˜blocks’ to be inserted snuggly in and welded and bolted up as required. Some has suggested using a super heavy duty rivot tapping air gun thing. No idea what it is but he seems very confident in their ability. Though I haven’t actually tried to bolt the bastard up yet, with around 170mm from centre to centre between holes it looks like it might go straight on. We’ll see”¦”¦”¦”¦”¦.
Apparently the above swap is has been done in the US and Europe. Lots of cars out there have been converted to 4x4 with standard inline 6 engines. So this part doesn’t worry me much. A plus point is that the rear 5 stud hubs from an e90 are a direct fit on the Ix front legs! Happy days!
Let me know your thoughts, and please go into detail as I need to overcome as many problems as poss before they happen.
Thought through and knowledgeable feedback wanted especially!
Oh and heres the thread on R3V http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=235274
Cheers
Turk
I have been doing loads of research and chatting with the guys on R3v based in the US who are doing similar projects using slightly different methods.
I've made a start at least
So, The ingredients:
1X E30 (standard to begin with, then into the M3 if it succeeds)
1x S62
1x BMW V8 Auto transmission Bellhousing
1x clutch and flywheel combo. Most likely to be something heavy duty with lightweight flywheel and 240mm friction plate.
1x Getrag 265 5 speed overdrive box from US spec E30 M3 and some other cars (non-dogleg)
1x X5 sump
1x X5 oil pump
1x X5 Front drive Shaft
1x X5 front diff with tall Ratio (168 case Z3 lsd internals can be used)
1x E34 Transfer case with Variable resistor control mechanism as I haven’t yet figured out how to use the ABS sensors to lock it up automatically.
1X E34 Front drive shaft
1X complete front end of an e30 IX (struts, wishbones, subframe, etc)
2x Adjustable camber and caster top mounts to make up for the angular difference between ix and standard struts.
Its not going to be quite enough the match that of the ix. The angular difference in the strut was for 4x4 straight line acceleration improvments. To be honest even though im building this monster id still like a fair bit of forward aim for improved strength during braking. (I'm gonna need it)
1x modified ecu to trick the complex S62 oil pan electronics into not causing issues and limp modes etc.
Yes it would be easier to do this to an E30ix, but I'm not doing that! I want to eventually transplant all this to the m3 so need to succeed by keeping the setup as close to the m3 as poss.
As my bronzits’ s54 engine kit has sold I thought it would be a perfect candidate for this attempt. This leaves me the M3 as a working daily driver until ready. If I succeed I will then drive the s62 for a bit whilst getting the M3 sorted. I may then swap both engines with one another if I find I like the way the S62 AWD drives. Leaving me an s14’d Bronzit daily driver, and a beastly E30 M3 S62 AWD
I have had the engine for a while, 70k odd miles out of a 2001 model. Stripped down and put on stand, flipped upside down to swap out the sump and pump.
The S62 sump has a G-force directed oil suction system whereby it has a total of 5 pick up points throughout the sump, 1 on main pump pick up, 2 magnetic valved channels again leading into the master pump via the upper sumps wall, and 2 at the rear with the same sort of system. The valves move around in a screw like fashion determining which ”˜point’ the oil must be picked up from.
As the e30 chassis has no G-meter built in, this system will not work anyways! no matter how sideways you’re going
This is a good thing for me as the x5 sump I’m using has NONE of the above, Just a pick up! The x5 pump consequently also has to be used (need on for a trial fit before purchasing new one). Not only because the oil channels will no longer exist but also because the mounting of the pump is specific to the sump. There have been some concerns raised about the pump in terms of sufficiency for oil delivery on an engine like the s62. As the vanos units have there own high pressure pumps it will be a case of ensuring the main components are well oiled. May have to incorporate an Accusump or similar to ensure oil pressure is maintained.
Next: Due to the length of the Getrag 420 (6 speed m5 box) different sizes of output shafts and lack of mounting bolt holes on the rear of the box I have decided to use the Getrag 265, The us version of the e30 m3 Overdrive box. These boxes are notoriously indestructible and have been used in applications of 800hp + from the research I’ve done! The main reason for choosing it is it has a detachable bell housing, rear housing and lots of bolt holes and mounting points at the rear. When the time comes to fit the transfer case It will be a case of making a plate to mate the two. If this fails the rear section of the e34 gbox (which is made to mount the tCase) Will be Modified and attached to the back of the box. I will create extra anchor points to the rear casing bolts to ensure its on it good and proppa!.
The bell housing is needed as the v8 has a different bolt pattern to i6’s. And being a removable one getting it to fit should be fairly plausible with some chopping, and making of adapter plates. Clutch wise its will need to be an e30 m3 240mm spec’d clutch, and e34 m5 pressure plate. More on this later.
The E34 Transfer case plug. This will activate the electromagnet giving me lockup. Probably wire this into a potentiometer until I can figure out a way of controlling it based on slip.
The output of the transfer case to the front diff (line of drive) is originally straight on standard E34 ix’s and X5’s, Ie no Cv joints etc. Because I am using a diff with a v8 the x5’s diff centre line is about 10cms further over to then the inline 6 awd bmws. This means I will need a double cv jointed front prop (eventually).
I have no idea what steering rack I can use yet. I know the likes of e30 and e36 racks foul between the diff and the steering knuckle. The chaps in the US have tried and failed. So more on that in a few months.
Next is the e30 Ix stuff. So, struts, wishbones, and subframe. The Subframe is the tricky part. Later e30’s apparently came with the corrects holes for both standard and Ix front subframes and is just a case of bolting them up. However both the Bronzit and the M3 are pre-facelift and lack the front holes needed. So what will be happening here is I will be getting a block of steel, drilling and tapping it, bolting it up to the subframe nice and snug and then cutting some of the bottom section of the front chassis rails, allowing the ”˜blocks’ to be inserted snuggly in and welded and bolted up as required. Some has suggested using a super heavy duty rivot tapping air gun thing. No idea what it is but he seems very confident in their ability. Though I haven’t actually tried to bolt the bastard up yet, with around 170mm from centre to centre between holes it looks like it might go straight on. We’ll see”¦”¦”¦”¦”¦.
Apparently the above swap is has been done in the US and Europe. Lots of cars out there have been converted to 4x4 with standard inline 6 engines. So this part doesn’t worry me much. A plus point is that the rear 5 stud hubs from an e90 are a direct fit on the Ix front legs! Happy days!
Let me know your thoughts, and please go into detail as I need to overcome as many problems as poss before they happen.
Thought through and knowledgeable feedback wanted especially!
Oh and heres the thread on R3V http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=235274
Cheers
Turk
my wallet is hurting!
