E30 Zone

I want to replace the rubber mounting blocks that go between the ITB's and head and just wondered if this is a simple procedure that I can do on a DIY basis? Is it simply a case of methodically removing parts, replacing the blocks and bolting everything back on again?

Are there any simple mods/upgrades I could do at the same time?

I understand that M3's have no gaskets between the ITB's and the airbox but is it correct that I could use those supplied for the e28 M5's?

Any help and / or advice would be much appreciated as the under bonnet area of my car has been pretty neglected by previous owners. I intend to polish and re-paint the cam cover and gradually replace all rubber components. (I need to do this gradually as I can't afford to do it all in one go!) What would be the best route to take with this?










http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E30/2 ... ssembly-2/

Hi there,

You should be able to use S38 items, especially as your car is an early engine with small ports. It's pretty easy to do the throttle body isolators, just be mindful to do everything back up to the right torque!

In terms of upgrades, you have an endless list! In terms of bolt on stuff, I would suggest getting the basics right first - clean injectors, new leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm, new plugs and balance throttles. Clean the idle speed control valve with carb cleaner, make sure the TPS is working right. A set of upgraded engine mounts may help.

Hope that's enough to get you started!

Good luck!

Mike

Thanks Mike.

I'm gradually working my way through your list but there seems to be an intermittent misfire / hesitation that seems to occur once the engine is warm. It's not there all the time, just most of it. It does feel like an electrical / ignition fault as opposed to fuel though?

I'm just waiting for the engine to cool so I can fit new iridium plugs. I fitted a new fuel pressure regulator today too.

I'll let you know how I get on?

Hi Dave,

Yep - you have to keep going through the problems! Does sound like an electrical fault though, probably a dicky plug lead, plug, worn rotor cap or the coil breaking down.

Let me know how you get on - I am fitting a stand alone ECU to mine so have a set of good leads (8mm I believe), rotor arm, cap and coil if you are interested...?

If not, no worries - will be interested to see how another S14 is going ready for when I drop mine in (see S14 into 325i thread in this section...)

Cheers,
Mike

I'm definately interested in those parts if they're all good? How much posted?

Mark

You have PM...!



Mike

Will be back home at weekend and back to trying to solve this bloody hesitation / stutter / misfire! One day last week it didn't occur at all but came back as quickly as it had gone. One other thing is that it started after the car wasn't used for a while. I'm not sure if that might matter?
Anyway, having gone right through the ignition side of things I just bought a new idle control valve which I will fit soon as I'm back. I've got a new set of Iridium plugs too. Are they any good or better than normal ones? I'm also going to replace temp switches because they are obviously related to the car getting warm, which is when the trouble starts. As I've said, on choke the engine runs perfectly and actually feels like a peach. It's bone dry too! Which I'm told is pretty unusual for an s14.
Anyway, the saga continues....

Hi,

It sounds like your main OBC relay/ cut out.

Do you have the 'large' OBC in your Car ?

The OBC relay sits on a metal frame secured under
the dash.

When you access it join the 2 greens together
and it will by pass the cut out until you can
obtain a replacement.

Its quite common on the old E30 M3.

Check on www.s14power.com and do a Search
called something like ''Desperation sets in''
by Member 'RichW'.

If you have the same symptons and equipment
then chances are its that.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

Seems it was all down to the ECU despite the fact it had been repaired just over a year ago. I bought a new unit and now it's running better than ever.