My 84 v8 swap e30

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:47 am

Well, it's back :) Not running yet, but I've made a bunch of progress over the last month or so.

Photo from right before I put it away after selling my previous m30b35 swap.

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Car sat (non-op) for about 4 years, after I sold my m30b35 swap to a local mechanic to put in one of his cars.

I've ended up purchasing 3 m6x engines, 1 m62b44, and 2 m60b40. I've taken the m62 and m60 apart and build an almost complete M62B40 that's still on the engine stand. Rebuild heads, new crank/rod bearings, timing guides etc.

The 3rd engine I bought complete from a running 95 540i car locally, I've taken it apart replaced just the things that needed attention. Valley pan, new top to bottom gaskets, taken oil pump off (with its 3 missing bolts in the oil pan) and cleaned/re-assembled it and set the oil pump chain slack per the manual. The timing guides must have been done along with the chain as the main dual row chain is not as stained as the camshaft chains and the guides don't show much wear at all so I left it alone.

I've finally replaced the steering rack on the car, gone is the original 318i rack. Got the rack from the Rack Doctor after reading many threads and talking to Rich over the phone. I've picked an e46 330i 3.0 lock to lock rack built with the e36 tie rod ends to drop into the e30 (Rack Doctor offers this on their site).

Lowered the front subframe with the Garagistic spacers to keep the driveline angle as good as possible for the m6x swap.

I've taken the dash out in order to have more visibility with installing Wilwood pedal box along with Garagistic bracket. This is probably one of the most tedious parts of the swap. First I had the wrong masters that were too long, had to order a different set. Then, I didn't like the amount of play in the wilwood pedals (side to side). After talking to Wilwood and exchanging a couple of photos and short video they've sent me some washers that I've installed to get the side-to-side play improved.

I've also made some modifications to the Garagistic pedal box bracket to make a little more clearance for the wiring loom under the dash going to/from the fusebox, and also a little bit for more clearance around one of the mounting bolts/nuts against the wilwood balance bar, it was just too close to my liking and I didn't want to risk it.

Today I've finally dropped the v8 into this thing, something that I've always wanted to do for a long time. To be honest the drop in wasn't even that bad, I think my m30b35 took more effort. My friend and I did have to put a very steep angle on the engine hoist leveler but in the end it fit .

Test fit is to see how much clearance I have for various lines (brakes/clutch), wiring, and around the exhaust manifolds . I went with the flaming river u-joints and DD shaft for best clearance.

In the next few weeks I plan on taking it back out to install the TTV racing single mass flywheel and e36 m3 clutch kit (along with the pilot bearing , if you guys remember from my m30b35 swap (Hey Pinepig! LOL) I left it on the trunk of the car DOH!

I still need to source an e36 328i manual driveshaft, order z3m radiator, and 2 catalytic converters. But most of the other major things have been done :)

Plan is to BAR this swap just like I did my m30b35, so hopefully it will be just as painless as prior attempt.

M62B40 engine that's on the engine stand I am either going to complete as the 4.4L or look at what it would take to build that into a stroker using M5 crank? But that's not on the immediate to do list right now.

Will post updates here as I make more progress.

Unfortunately, the hosting provider I was using to host all my previous photos from earlier stages of restoration and modifications went out and I lost a bunch of images :( Wish I had the original photo of what the car looked like when I first got it :/

Shot of it when she was on Hartge 16s

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Specifications

Chassis
- 84 318i 5speed , non ABS, manual windows and sunroof

Suspension
- Ground control race camber plates
- Ground control coil-over kit
- 51mm cut/re-inforced/shortened strut housings
- Custom re-valved Bilstein sports
- Ground control tall rear upper mounts
- Offset lower control arm bushings
- New oem rear subrame and trailing arm bushings
- Cabrio front sway bar

Wheels / Tires
- TireRack TRM 15x8 4x100
- Kumho v710 225
- Hoosier R6 225

Steering
- e46 330i 3.0 lock to lock steering rack
- e36 tie rod ends
- Flaming River u-joints and DD shaft

Brakes
- Late model 325i front and rear calipers and rotors
- New front and rear hubs and bearings
- New front and rear calipers
- Wilwood pedal box with 2x compact 5/8 masters
- Wilwood 2in 3out bias valve

Drivetrain
- Originally M10B18 (block cracked around head bolts)
- 2nd swap was a fully rebuilt 91 M30B35 with 5speed and 533 flywheel and 325e driveshaft(sold)
- Custom 3.46 LSD diff with 4 clutch discs
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- 95 M60B40 engine, re-sealed top to bottom
- 94 530i 5speed transmission
- VVT Racing single mass v8 flywheel
- E36 3.2 M3 clutch kit
- wilwood compact 3/4 master
- e36 328i manual driveshaft

Cooling
- S54 Z3M radiator
- SPAL pusher fan
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Shifter
- early console cut and modified to fit directly to trans tunnel
- Z3 2.8 shifter
- Zhp shift knob

Exhaust
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Interior
- Original black carpet
- Late model 7k instrument cluster swap
- Late model dash swap
- Late model black/cloth door and quarter panel swap
- Late model speaker shelf swap
- New consoles and oem leather shift/e-brake boots and e-brake handle
- Corbeau race bucket driver seat
- Corbeau trs reclining passenger seat
- Momo wheel
- Map light mirror
- Radio delete plate


Exterior
-318is shadow line trim and rear quarter windows
-Euro bumpers
-Original M-Technic kit
-Startec tails
-Late model headlights
-Yellow m-technic fogs
-Euro plate filler
-Motorsport door handles
-Late model body painted mirrors
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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:48 am

Pedal box with masters

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This part was fun

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e46 330 rack and u-joints

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Since my car is a non-abs car, my original MC had 3 hard lines going to it, so I have 3 lines to deal with. The garagistic wilwood pedal bracket does not allow for adding a remote balance bar adapter that wilwood makes so I am going to try this 2in (from the masters) to 3 out valve.

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New valley pan, top, bottom , rear gaskets and seals.

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and it fits

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And it fits :)

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:48 am

Pulled the engine/trans out today, got the flywheel and pilot bearing installed.

Installed Garagistic poly mounts and reinstalled engine with e38/e39 modified manifolds to see how much clearance I have around the steering shaft u-joints , firewall, subframe etc.

It looks like passenger side exhaust exit is the worst spot right now, will need to massage the footwell area to make clearance.

Looking at the rear accumulator pipe options as well, I have two different styles on hand . One with 2 outlets and one with 4.

Intake manifold installed to check for clearance at the back of the manifold against the firewall cowl area.

Flywheel and new bolts installed, pilot bearing.
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Checking for clearance around the oil pan and e46 rack, looks good here.
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Driver side exhaust mount clearance with flaming river u-joints
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Passenger side is UGH tight.
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Rear water pipe clearance , flywheel

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More of rear water pipe and firewall clearance

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Top view

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Manifold on.

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:49 am

Since I got the dash out I went ahead and lowered the heater/ac box down into the cabin to make room for installing the wiper assembly.

Got the wiper assembly installed, with new bushings as someone on the forum recommended. Went to install the blower fan and resistor and found out the blower resistor is the wrong style, 4 pin vs 3.

Started looking carefully at the rear accumulator pipe options, just thinking about what would be cleaner, easier to service, and just more reliable?

The accumulator pipes come in at least 3 configurations, one with 4 outlets and one with 2. The ones with 2 come with no threaded bongs for temp sensors and one with. I ended up collecting all 3 styles between the 3 engines I've gotten .

Obviously need to lines for the heater core...and one needed for the expansion tank. Running the expansion tank there are also two options. 740i water pumps have 3 coolant hoses, and 540i water pumps have only two.

So with 740i pump you have the 2 hoses going straight to the radiator and one hose for the expansion tank. With 540i pump you have just the two radiator hoses, so the expansion tank would need to be run off the back of the engine.

Obviously there are pros and cons to each configuration here, you want the line to be as clean or straight and expansion tank at the highest position so that's a given. I'll be running one by the firewall on the passenger side where I have most room. Running a coolant line to the front of the engine / water pump doesn't look as clean but it sure looks better from serviceability angle. The rear accumulator pipe area is REALLY tight/busy even with just 2 hoses going to the heater core pipes.

Need to basically make a decision in the next week or so and order the water pump so I can seal the coolant pipes under the intake manifold and rear pipe up.

Got a 95 m60b40 540i/6speed manual harness from a member on BFC. I didn't want to run an auto harness and have extra connectors dangling, so hopefully this one will work fine and keep things neat.

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I've been exchanging some messages with DUDMD tuner on BFC as well regarding DME options, I want to ensure there is no off throttle lag/delay with rpm's sticking and also no ECU codes that would show up and cause me to fail BAR test.
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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:50 am

Today took some hours to get the wilwood 2in 3out valve, and get new hard lines made and routed to how I like them.

Next up to replace all the soft lines on each corner, have new ones on hands. Old ones I've replaced before some years back but they show some hairline cracks an might as well replace them now before filling and bleeding the system.

I need to figure out if I can stick the fuel filter somewhere in the back of the car to keep the engine bay as clean and simple as possible, and also not have the fuel filter close to the exhaust manifold.

Also, the charcoal canister needs to find a good location as well. I am thinking, perhaps I can fit it in the area behind the driver side headlight where I want to mount the oil filter housing (need the lines extended as well).



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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:50 am

Replaced all four calipers today with rebuilt OEM units.
Replaced front hubs/bearings since I had a new set waiting to be installed.

Pedal is nice and firm, all four calipers are working as they should and the pedal does return and calipers aren't dragging like they did before. I still do have about 3/4-1" of slack/dead space with the brake pedal that I need to figure out though. Looks like I'll be removing the pedal box again, and see about adjusting the MC rod length to push the pedal further "in" to get rid of the slack and try this again.... SIGH.

Engine wise, got new knock sensors. Waiting for crankcase ventilation pipe to arrive before I install intake manifold with all new gaskets, and new rear PCV unit.

Clutch pivot ball, slave cylinder , 95c thermostat, new housing are in the mail. Ordered new spark plugs, spark plug boots, crank and cam sensors.

Still undecided on 540i vs 740i water pump, 540i pump means I'll have to tie the expansion tank at the back of the engine where there is little room vs 740i pump where I can tie the expansion tank at the front straight to the pump and keep the rear of the engine with only 2 hoses (heater core). Leaning towards 740 to be honest.

Feels like I haven't made any progress these last 2 weeks due to constantly figuring out brakes situation....really annoying. As soon as this is figured out, engine and trans are going in.

I got 740i oil filter housing lines and 740i oil filter housing, the lines are longer and I can install it behind driver side headlight vs on the engine so that it won't interfere with the upper radiator hose.

Early shifter console has arrived, need new bushings and figure out what shifter rod to get. I am thinking if I mount the early console on top of the trans tunnel I'll need a shifter rod with longer lower section below the ball, so will need to see what is out there. I've used a z3 shifter before, but with a different console configuration .
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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:51 am

So, after spending about an hour on the phone with Summit Racing (was not impressed with their tech line at all), then Wilwood (better tech support, and they actually laughed when I mentioned Summit Racing techline so I guess it's not the first time) they've confirmed that dual 5/8 should be OK, but they actually recommended 3/4" size in order to get rid of the initial slop or dead play I am experiencing in the brake pedal.

I've called Garagistic and ran the whole thing by them as well, since after all they recommend dual 5/8 in their guide. After some in depth discussion, they've confirmed that they have also experienced the slop or dead play I am running it and were able to dial some that out by adjusting the MC rod lengths.

So, today I've removed the steering column tube after welding nuts to the sheer bolts, and of course in turn melting the plastic bushings there in the process.

Parts #15/17 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=32_0427

This was done to get more room as I did not want to disconnect the brake lines, and wanted to lower the pedal box as ONE unit and get to the rods in order to adjust their length. I swear, after dealing with this now for the 3rd time if I was going to do it again I would totally go with the floor mounted 3 pedal box OR relocate the booster behind the driver side headlight (Aka 540i/740i config). Going to remount the pedal box this week and see if it's any better.


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Good news, found and e36 328i manual driveshaft with 4 bolt rear u-joint, apparently it's the same as 96+ m3 from what the local recycler told me. U joints seem in good condition, CSB is OK but I have a spare new one I've never used before.

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Also got the early shifter carrier console modified today, to fit on top of the trans tunnel (aka DTM style). In the process of mounting it I recognized that the Reverse Light switch wires are in the trans tunnel and are part of the chassis harness (good right?) but the 540i engine harness ALSO has reverse light wires? I am thinking I can ignore the wiring harness reverse light wires since they are probably routed via X25 pin into the chassis VS. e30 being separate.

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Note to self - get some hockey tape, rewrap some of the wiring under the dash near the pedal box while I am in there.

Ordered new shifter bushings, went with 740i pump, and 325e style expansion tank. I want to have as little water hoses behind the engine / at the firewall as possible.
New spark plugs/boots installed, ignition coils done. I went ahead and ordered new knock sensors and grabbed my 540i manifold with trumpets with the new PCV and gaskets.

Down to radiator, cats/exhaust work next. Oh, and re-locating the fuel filter from the engine bay towards to the back of the car, I've been looking at smaller filters and I think I found something that will fit near the rear subframe by the external fuel pump.
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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:51 am

Took a break from the pedal box stuff, replaced the pivot ball and installed the trans on the engine. Went to auto zone and looked at all the fuel filters they had to find something small that I could install in the back of the car near the external fuel pump.

I really don't get why people are cutting the radiator support on e30s to drop the m6x in, it is completely unnecessary. It just takes two people to get the right angle, and it easily fits w/o any issues. Key is to not have the alternator/power steering pump on there to get the needed room and you can install those once engine is in the car.

I went ahead and weighted the long block with the flywheel/clutch kit/trans mounted and it came out to about 470lbs. I'll need to find my previous post from years back when I weighted my M30B35 swap to compare.

Found it - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpo ... tcount=213
My M10 with trans on the same scale was 395lbs
My M30 with g260 / 533 flywheel w/o exhaust manifolds was 540lbs.

Engine is using Garagistic arms, with their poly mounts. Trans is on my old poly mount from m30 swap, seem to fit fine here as well. Replaced the CSB on the e36 328i driveshaft today and test fitted it, looks like length might just work w/o any modifications but I need to get a guibo/flex disc in there first.

With the engine and trans mounted I was able to get the exhaust manifolds in and out w/o any issues also, just have to rotate them a bit but you can get them in and out as long as you don't have power steering shaft in there.

Pics below

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Couple things I need to figure out/ confirm is the coolant flow direction, to ensure the heater core lines / hoses are connected correctly to the rear water accumulator pipe.

Clutch line angle is worrying me a bit, so I'll need to think about that one. Perhaps add a hard line in there ?
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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:52 am

Clutch line made, connected and bled. Unlike the brake pedals, this one works as you'd expect. Press it, release it and it comes right back w/o any return spring (Summit Racing was telling me I could add a return spring to the brake pedal ).

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Adjusted the push rods today on all 3 masters, to make sure there weren't preloaded and nothing binding.. bolted the thing back up and brakes aren't perfect still. I am now thinking about selling it and going with Tilton, I'll monkey with it one last time this weekend and then decide. I got an idea on what else it might be, will report back if my thinking was correct.

Test fitted m62 740i oil filter lines, they are a bit longer than the m60 lines and will allow me to mount the oil filter housing behind the driver side headlight.

Ordering z3m s54 radiator next, as I want to install the radiator in place and then get the bracket for the oil filter housing fabricated to ensure clearance around it is good. If the lines turn out to be too short, I am thinking about getting AN fittings welded to the x5 block plate and oil filter housing and get custom lines made (my plan B).

Some pics from progress. Clutch line, and pedal stuff.

For guys using the Garagistic bracket , I highly recommend re-wrapping the main harness in there as it will be very close/against the metal bracket and you don't want the wiring to get damaged over time and cause a short or a fire.

I bought a roll of cloth tape , and went to town with it :)

See below -

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Overview after adjusting push rods
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Not sure if I got a bad bracket here, but the clevis of the wilwood pedal assembly IS touching the mounting bolt of the bracket.
I'll need to run this by Garagistic to see if this was a bad batch or what, but it's too close to my liking. You can see I actually had to file a corner
a little bit to make room for the corner of the clevis here. I had to also move the nut that goes on the balance by to the other side, it usually would be on the right most side of the balance bar as thats where you'd connect a remote bias bar cable (can't do it here, as the design of the mounting bracket does not allow it).

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If there is one recommendation I can make to make this bracket better, and not have interference with the moving parts of the pedal assembly it would be to re-design the side of the bracket or at least that one corner to go UNDER the wilwood assembly and not OVER. This would prevent the clearance issue with the clevis that in the resting position is touching the bracket itself.
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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:52 am

Update - Got the issue resolved, I think. Removed the pedals again, played with the location and quantity of spacers on the balance bar, shorted the right side end of the balance bar (did not want to risk it touching the Garagistic bracket in it's movement, filed the corner of Garagistic bracket where you can see it was making contact with the clevis. This was causing the interference.

Pedal now returns fully, and got the clutch bled and pedals aligned to be on the same plane.

I am concerned with the rubber boot on the MC as it's rubbing against the Garagistic bracket as seen in the photo, this will cause a premature failure of the rubber boot. This is why I think Garagistic should re-design the mount, it should wrap below the wilwood pedal and not sit on the top and interfere with the moving parts.

Also, wrapping the harness under the column is an absolute must....really tight fit against the bracket on the top left corner under the column. This is even with removing the oem harness holders to try and move/push the wiring as much to the left as possible.

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:53 am

Made some progress - bracket for the clutch/brake res done. Probably will either shorten the lines or make a bracket to hold them closer to the firewall and away from the driver side head.

Got a z3 2.8 shifter (used the 1.9 before and loved it) and favorite zhp weighted shift knob and all new shifter bushings from Blunt. Got the shift rod cut and extended/welded after finding optimal position for it and ensuring R and 5th don't hit the console.

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early console cut/modified, new shift bushings, shifter and knob.

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It felt good to see some progress by putting some interior parts back in the car .

Replaced the driveshaft CSB and need to install the driveshaft guide bushing tomorrow, and get the right size flex disc and test fit the whole thing.

Then, oil filter housing test fitting for it's permanent location to ensure clearance against z3m radiator and making a bracket for it and expansion tank.
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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:53 am

I got a wrong flex disc / guibo...picked up the right one today. Picture below to compare the 540i manual guibo vs 530i / 328i guibo .

Driveshaft lines up, got the new CSB and front guide bushing installed (This is a HUGE pain in the ass to replace btw). UPS took forever today to deliver driveshaft nuts and bolts among other things so I didn't get it bolted up :/

Driveshaft will need to be "opened up" or expanded about 3/4-1" , it's currently in the fully closed/collapsed form.

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:53 am

Ran into a small issue related to water pump/thermostat/housing options. I am going with a 740i pump with the 3rd nipple for the expansion tank to keep only 2 water hoses at the back of the head for the heater core and nothing else as it's a) tight in there and b) I don't want an extra hose back there anyway.

To do this, I am going with the expansion tank on the passenger side like the 325e and running the expansion tank to the 3rd nipple on the water pump.

The 740i pump that I was able to source won't work with the thermostat / housing from the 540i pump as the design is different there. Tomorrow I am picking up another thermostat housing, it will have a temp sensor on it as it's really for m62 cars. I'll see how easy it is to remove the sensor or maybe use it as a signal source for a redundant coolant temp sensor (in addition to the one in the cluster that will run from the back of the engine, on the rear water accumulator pipe).

Got new knock sensors torqued, water pipes cleaned and installed, new o-rings, and new water pump bolts.

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:53 am

Got the right water pump today, this one allows for usage of obd1 thermostat/housing with o-ring and has the 3rd outlet for expansion tank on passenger side. First pump I got didn't have the 3rd outlet, 2nd pump had the outlet but the thermostat housing side was flat and really was meant for OBD2 cars with the thermostats with temp sensors on them.

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Test fit, thermostart/housing installed. Got the Z3M s54 Behr radiator test fitted, fits awesome just need to work out details on mounting it.

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:54 am

Went to install the flex disc with new bolts/nuts and ran into an issue. It appears that the driveshaft flange is damaged? Somehow all flanges are at some weird angle, this makes it really difficult to install the bolts and I am afraid this will cause the flex disc to fail prematurely.

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:54 am

Really liking the clearance here though, I remember my previous M30B35 swap and even with E28 radiator it was REALLY close ...at some point my distributor cap kissed the radiator.


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Now, alternator to frame-rail clearance is damn close!

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Oil filter housing will be mounted here once a bracket for it is fabricated, so 740i lines are long enough.

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Jean
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:54 am

Still working on the driveshaft issue, I've taken it to the best local driveline place and they right away told me it's damaged. Unfortunately, they weren't willing to do anything with it either. Sigh.

Going to the recycler tomorrow with the front piece to see if they have found another one to replace it with.

I did get rebuilt/flow matched Lucas injectors installed and the intake manifold with the trumpets and new PCV and all new gaskets and pipe is ready for install.

Working on the rear coolant hoses for the heater core, will be visiting a local welder to see if they could modify my heater core lines to have a 90 degree bend to make the routing of the lines easier and avoid using couplers.


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Removed the old heater/ac/fan box and replaced it with another in better condition, ordered a new gasket for it and going to clean things up a little before re-installing the dash.

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Steering column test fitted with new mounting hardware and 1/4" spacers to lower it down a little for better clearance.

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Accessories and belt is on there for test fitting, finally got the firewall cover back on there and also re-doing some of the wiring for check engine light and speed sensor. I picked up a wire with 4 individual connectors inside, and running it through a heatshrink tube and through firewall on the driver side to keep things clean.

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*** TO DO LIST ***

- finalize rear water accumulator pipe hoses for heater core
- reinstall dash / interior
- reinstall steering column
- install gas pedal spring

- mount the radiator (waiting for mounting hardware / bushings to arrive)
- mount the oil filter housing (waiting on the oil filter housing bracket hardware to arrive)
- mount expansion tank (still deciding on the early vs late model 325 tanks, will probably do this last)

- figure out power steering lines
- mock up exhaust manifolds

- finish engine wiring
- relocate battery to the trunk
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:10 am

WoW Epic.
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aimlessrock
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Wed Oct 18, 2017 10:53 am

8O
E30 320i Convertible (1989)
190 Mercedes (1988)

"there is nothing more expensive than a cheap E30"
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Jean
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Mon Oct 23, 2017 2:38 am

Heater hoses done, I like how these turned out so hopefully they will hold pressure.

Starter / alternator wire cleaned up and re-wrapped in new split loom tubing and installed. In the photo I have it laying on top of the coolant pipes which obviously isn't the correct way, installed under the smaller diameter pipe.

New high pressure fuel lines installed, caps on the PCV plate installed and manifold is bolted down.

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Here is my way of installing the oil filter housing utilizing 740i lines , and e38 oil filter bracket. Made a bracket for the bracket LOL.
This way you can position it as you like and not kink the oil lines, and let the filter housing "float" on it's rubber mounts.

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Test fitting locations for the filter, power steering res and also need to find a good spot for the charcoal canister next.

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Started looking at the power steering pump / rack lines, my m6x pump has 1 line on it, and it's shooting up just behind the alternator..thinking this is a reservoir low pressure line. Missing one of the banjo bolts, so I need to order one of those and new copper rings and get the lines finalized as well.
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Jean
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Thu Oct 26, 2017 5:52 am

Made some more progress today, got lower brackets made and installed for the radiator. Since I have an early 318, the previous rad mounts didn't fit the Z3M rad on the sides so had to get those made.

Found a spot for the 540i charcoal canister behind the driver side headlight and ran a new line through the frame rail for it. Removed the oil filter housing to install new upper/lower o-rings and test fitting the low pressure power steering hard line for the res.

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Had a local hydraulic shop make me a new high pressure line, test fitted it. It has an "S" bend to it, so it's not really as straight as it looks in the photo.

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I really like the radiator to engine clearance, test fitted stock intake manifold that also will need some custom bracket / mounts fabrication for install.

Got a 540i throttle cable installed, and hooked up to the gas pedal and ran into an issue. With the pedal in fully closed (up) position the throttle body isn't fully closed.... As much as I'd like to drive all the time at WOT this won't work. It looks like one way I can get this resolved is by modifying the metal bracket that holds the end of the throttle cable on the throttle body. I'll need to move the point where the end of the cable/rubber bushing is about 1/2" closer to the front .

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I bought an early style expansion tank to see if the fitment of it would be better than the late model, test fitting it and looks like I'll go with this one instead of late model version. I didn't want to add more things to the driver side fender area and have the expansion tank instead live on the passenger side and hose will run to the 3rd nipple on the 740i pump.

I am not a big fan of it covering half of the valve cover, but I still think it's better than running it on the driver side and having yet another coolant hose added to the area that's already pretty busy near the firewall.

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Gert
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Thu Oct 26, 2017 9:47 am

Nice topic to read Jean. With a lot of pictures and info to read about the difficulties you run into. Keep up the good work.
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Jean
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Tue Oct 31, 2017 3:27 am

Update:

-got the power steering system/lines all finished up today.

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The only thing I don't like about the power steering setup is it seems the return line from E30 res down to the pipe seems just a HAIR too lose to my liking, using a brand new hose and it fits the RES side perfect but the bottom isn't as tight.

Starting to wonder if there is a difference in PS res between e30 (what I am using) and e46 for example ...or perhaps there is not e46 rack banjo end fitting I can find with slightly BIGGER diameter to fit the hose perfect. The banjo end fitting on the lower pressure side would need to match the diameter of the plastic RES side.


-got oil filter housing lines/return line finished today
-oil filter housing oil bracket re-installed, learned that you can't order the center plastic support bracket that goes inside the 96+ housings, that's the screw-in part vs the plastic tower that snaps in in the earlier cars.
- removed spark plugs, put a little bit of oil in each cylinder, rotated the engine a few rotations to make sure nothing was binding and just wanted to get some lubrication in each cylinder
- torqued new plugs in place
- checked each ignition could with DMM , then re-installed in place
- traced the fuel return and charcoal canister lines
- test fitted smaller oil filter in the back of the car near the external fuel pump
- got the e36 lower radiator hose, don't like how it fits , it rubs against the oil dipstick tube too much, this is the GATES 22440 hose. This hose can actually be used for the UPPER radiator hose though.
- got the gates 20923 for the upper radiator hose, shortened it and it fits perfect as the UPPER radiator hose.
- got another gates 18965 long straight hose with the molded end on one side that fits PERFECT on the 325e expansion tank, and the other end fits perfect as well on the 740i pump side for expansion tank...hose is long enough to use w/o any splicing. This is the hose I used (shortened) for one of my rear heat hoses, the molded side is perfect size for the rear water accumulator side and the other end is perfect size for the hard lines for the heater hose connections,.

- test fitted stock 540i/740i lower radiator hose 11 53 1 741 407 and it clears the oil dipstick tube obviously much better than the e36 hose. I may try to use this hose instead.

- tried re-installing new 540i throttle cable and for some reason no matter what position I try on the firewall side I can't get the throttle body to close fully even when the adjuster own the cable is maxed out. I may end up modifying the throttle cable metal bracket instead. Not sure why I am running into this issue, using the cable everyone recommends, bracket appears to be stock 540i and isn't bent or damaged ...cable is new, gas pedal linkage has been shortened to clear the wilwood pedals .

- got two DME's ready for the swap, both are manual 404 black label non EWS versions.
One with manual stock 530i m60 chip with b40 maps from DUMD, and second one is a virgin 404 black 540i/6speed manual chip as backup.
Got a stock 404 auto as well, just in case so I can compare these run and read (code wise).

- my old 15x8 tire rack e30 specific wheels reinstalled with new Kumho V720 225/45 tires (wish I waited and new about the new 15x9 and 245 options out now :./

- Starting to trace wires for the harness.

TO DO list is finally getting smaller :)

- figure out the throttle cable situation
- install new throttle linkage bushings

- run new wires for the check engine light and speed sensor
- run extra wires for future to add additional sensors (oil temp, oil pressure, etc)
- run battery cable to the trunk and install battery box
- re-install dash / interior

- get the lower radiator hose option figured out
- get expansion tank mounted and hose connected

- install starter
- get manifolds modified and installed
- get the stock b40 y-pipes modified and installed
- get walker cats installed order correct o2 sensors to match the wiring harness


Got a couple more things done today -

- expansion tank mounted, I tried 3 different combination of tanks (e30 late model, e30 early model, and the e32/e34 tank that sits at the firewall) and picked the one I liked the most from aesthetics and serviceability.
- coolant hoses routed / test fitted
- fuel filter installed (used half of another external fuel pump bracket as a fuel filter holder)
- replaced some old fuel lines
- installed new throttle/gas pedal bushings (highly recommend doing this)
- test fitted hood to make sure clearance is good (ended up lowering the clutch/brake red about half an inch)
- tried both e36 lower radiator hose and e34 540i hose, went with 540i hose as it simply fits better after cutting about 1/2" from both ends and it doesn't rub against the oil dipstick tube (e36 325i hose does not have the needed curvature)

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Need to get some heat reflective material/tubing to wrap the soft fuel lines in the engine bay and also power steering res lines.
Also will probably shorten the res lines and make a small holder/bracket to keep them close to firewall and away from back of the engine.
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B5234FT
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Tue Oct 31, 2017 10:46 am

Awesome thread and thanks very much for including part numbers for hoses and suchlike!

Can you recall the hose spec/size/crimps for your HP PAS pipe?
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Jean
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Tue Oct 31, 2017 5:10 pm

B5234FT wrote:Awesome thread and thanks very much for including part numbers for hoses and suchlike!

Can you recall the hose spec/size/crimps for your HP PAS pipe?
Hi, the high pressure line was custom made by local shop but I should have paperwork in the car that I'll grab and post for you later today/tomorrow.

Cheers!
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Jean
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Tue Oct 31, 2017 5:10 pm

B5234FT wrote:Awesome thread and thanks very much for including part numbers for hoses and suchlike!

Can you recall the hose spec/size/crimps for your HP PAS pipe?
Hi, the high pressure line was custom made by local shop but I should have paperwork in the car that I'll grab and post for you later today/tomorrow.

Cheers!
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Jean
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Fri Nov 03, 2017 6:21 am

Found paperwork for the high pressure line, it's 12" long with 3/8" hose. 14mm metric banjo 3/8" banjo ends.
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B5234FT
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Fri Nov 03, 2017 9:17 am

Thanks Jean, much appreciated!
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Jean
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Sat Nov 04, 2017 6:40 am

B5234FT wrote:Thanks Jean, much appreciated!
Sure thing!
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Jean
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Sat Nov 04, 2017 6:42 am

More progress made today, interior is starting to look like a car again and not a mess of parts.

I had an issue with the modified throttle bracket, I modified it per instructions (shortened to clear the wilwood pedal box) and then I noticed I couldn't get the throttle body to fully open at WOT ... my theory was that the shortened throttle bracket changed the ratio and accelerator cable was not able to have as much movement for throttle body to fully open from a closed position. I've confirmed my theory was correct, and it had nothing to do with the throttle cable adjuster position on the bracket. I ended up getting another pedal bracket and shortened it just enough to clear the wilwood pedal assembly but trying to keep the lever end as long as possible. This fixed the issue for good, new bushings installed and also went ahead added a factory spring to the gas pedal.

I didn't like how the pedal felt without the spring on the bracket and only relying on the throttle body spring, it felt "lazy" and just didn't feel right. There was a stud on the firewall that I attached a small bracket to and a stock spring to that.

First modified pedal bracket (too short, not enough reach for the accelerator cable to have enough reach to open the TB to WOT from fully closed position) vs. current.

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Need to remove the bracket for stock brake switch, as I am using a remote bracket switch in the engine bay. Ran the wires to that, picked up some nice loom for it so it would look nice and clean. Fished some extra 4pin wire near fusebox for check engine light and speed sensor wiring. And also ran an extra 4pin wire in the loom for future, I may want to add oil temp/pressure gauges,.

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Started working on moving the battery to the trunk, of course my car does not even have a cutout for the positive wire so I had to cut one. Need to pull carpet on the passenger side and run the factory positive terminal wire to the trunk.

TO DO list

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Not sure what I am going to do with the SPAL fan, it appears that I can fit it in the engine bay as a puller vs as a pusher. I'd much rather run a puller than a pusher as this way I can make a more effective fan shroud VS. running a pusher infront of the rad. The SPAL fan that I have will fit in the engine bay if I offset it to a side on the passenger side, this way it won't interfere with the crank pulley or anything else from a quick test fit.

Still need think about this, and I have another idea in mind as well but need to sleep on it.
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Jean
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Mon Dec 04, 2017 4:02 am

I had an issue with the modified throttle bracket, I modified it per instructions (shortened to clear the wilwood pedal box) and then I noticed I couldn't get the throttle body to fully open at WOT ... my theory was that the shortened throttle bracket changed the ratio and accelerator cable was not able to have as much movement for throttle body to fully open from a closed position. I've confirmed my theory was correct, and it had nothing to do with the throttle cable adjuster position on the bracket. I ended up getting another pedal bracket and shortened it just enough to clear the wilwood pedal assembly but trying to keep the lever end as long as possible. This fixed the issue for good, new bushings installed and also went ahead added a factory spring to the gas pedal.

I didn't like how the pedal felt without the spring on the bracket and only relying on the throttle body spring, it felt "lazy" and just didn't feel right. There was a stud on the firewall that I attached a small bracket to and a stock spring to that.

First modified pedal bracket (too short, not enough reach for the accelerator cable to have enough reach to open the TB to WOT from fully closed position) vs. current.

Image

Image

Need to remove the bracket for stock brake switch, as I am using a remote bracket switch in the engine bay. Ran the wires to that, picked up some nice loom for it so it would look nice and clean. Fished some extra 4pin wire near fusebox for check engine light and speed sensor wiring. And also ran an extra 4pin wire in the loom for future, I may want to add oil temp/pressure gauges,.

Image

Started working on moving the battery to the trunk, of course my car does not even have a cutout for the positive wire so I had to cut one. Need to pull carpet on the passenger side and run the factory positive terminal wire to the trunk.

TO DO list

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Not sure what I am going to do with the SPAL fan, it appears that I can fit it in the engine bay as a puller vs as a pusher. I'd much rather run a puller than a pusher as this way I can make a more effective fan shroud VS. running a pusher infront of the rad. The SPAL fan that I have will fit in the engine bay if I offset it to a side on the passenger side, this way it won't interfere with the crank pulley or anything else from a quick test fit.

Still need think about this, and I have another idea in mind as well but need to sleep on it.


Made some progress this week, old gas drained, wasn't even bad!
Battery is in the trunk now, just need to bolt the battery tray down and strap the battery down.
Got the fluids for the engine/trans/power steering, need to drain the engine and install engine coolant temp and instrument cluster sensors.

Exhaust has been very stressful, there is about 1/4" of room around the driver side exhaust and the flaming river u-joints....I wish there were slim versions of these, I need to see if Flaming River has something else perhaps.

Driver and passenger side manifolds done, y-pipes done and I wanted the front pieces to be removable just like they are on the donor vehicle for serviceability.

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The floor of the e30 isn't the same level on the driver side vs. passenger so it made it really difficult to get the driver side and passenger side exhaust to be on the same level yet not hang low to the ground. Still need to remove everything one more time, grind/clean up the welds and perhaps spray the whole thing down with exhaust manifold paint.

Walker ca legal cats, summit 2.25" kit. More than enough for the job.

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Rear section is next, took some time to figure out where to install exhaust hangers where it made sense while keeping things neat.

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Jean
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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:46 pm

Got the battery tray and battery installed. Need to shorten the power cables and crimp a new positive terminal on there.

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Since I haven't seen anyone post some good clear shots of the exhaust using 4-2-1 manifolds I tried to capture these.

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Jean
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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:46 pm

Pinned out and connected rest of the sensors, new o2 sensors installed and exhaust is on.
Blue coolant is in, but has a very small leak somewhere around water pump :( FML

Here is the idle video and walk around - https://youtu.be/RQ7bFhYAbBs
It's got a lifter tick, hopefully will go away with running .

[YOUTUBE]RQ7bFhYAbBs[/YOUTUBE]

I got these new exhaust doughnuts but they seem to be way different, I am guessing they will take the shape if you squeeze them enough or did I get the wrong ones?

Old one, and new one.
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13522 sensors is what I ended up using on both sides, shortest leads.
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Jean
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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:46 pm

Last few, engine bay shot...got some work to do with wiring clean up.

And shot of the stupid coolant leak under water pump :/

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Ugh


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Jean
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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:47 pm

Slightly modified the mounting plate for the Garagistic 2nd diff mount, enlarged the bolt holes, round off the bolt heads and got them welded together. This way the stack height isn't too much to interfere with my battery tray in the trunk.

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