E30 Zone

What's the easiest way to remove the transmission from the S50 engine in the E30? I have some clutch work to be taken care of and, at the same time, service the rear main seal. I'd really hate to pull the engine but is it the only way?

The easiest way is to drop the subframe and lower the engine a little then remove the gearbox.

I know I must try it myself to find out, but can you estimate how low should be enough? If not too low I guess I can still leave everything intact except the stuff connected to/around the trans.

A few inches is enough! no need to disconnect anything. Just remove the exhaust and prop.

Thanks mate. I'll give it a try.

Ok. Here's what I did.

- I lowered the subframe 2 inches. That was as far as it could go. If lower than this I'd have to move the wiring out of the cover. (And I'd hate to do that)
- 2 inches was enough for removing the trans mounting bolts. But for putting them back, I wished I had another 1 inch.
- Putting the trans back was a real PITA.
- I disconnected the prop, exhaust, steering u-joint, control arm bushings, and air box.
- After the clutch job, the subframe wasn't aligned with the screw holes on the chassis. I had a very hard time aligning them.

RoadHazard wrote:, I wished I had another 1 inch.

Don't we all! (Sorry.)

- After the clutch job, the subframe wasn't aligned with the screw holes on the chassis. I had a very hard time aligning them.

Remove one subframe bolt each side, replace it by a much longer bolt, then remove the other bolts and drop the frame on your 'guide' bolts.
Same technique should be used to fit the gearbox - long headless bolts screwed into where the two large diametrically opposite bellhousing bolts fit.

I managed to get it done with the just engine tilted backwards. With two extensions and two knee-joints I got it done. Next time I'll lower the subframe a bit as it was a bitch to do it this way.

Brianmoooore wrote: Remove one subframe bolt each side, replace it by a much longer bolt, then remove the other bolts and drop the frame on your 'guide' bolts.
Same technique should be used to fit the gearbox - long headless bolts screwed into where the two large diametrically opposite bellhousing bolts fit.

Good info as always, Brian. Thank you.