E30 Zone

Sorry if this has been asked many times before.

I've had a good look at the zone wiki and am fairly confident I know what's required, just looking for confirmation.

M52 engine preferably without ews (pre 94) or ews delete including e34 sump, oil pickup and dipstick.

Custom manifolds from Danthe or similar

ECU and wiring loom. Silver label or purple label if ews is got rid off

M20 gearbox, diff and prop? Can the m52 gearbox prop and diff be used?

Which engine mounts are required?

Is there anything I have wrong or have missed?

Also approximate costs would be good for all the parts.

Its to go into a 1988 2 door facelift saloon. M10 engine, gearbox, ECU and wiring loom have now been removed.

Thanks in advance.

Matt

Your getting confused with M50, all M52 engines came with EWS and a Siemens ECU, no different colour labels like there is on the earlier M50 Bosch ECU's

Use the 328 box is the best way, much stronger unit and it rarely suffers from layshaft rattles like the older E30 boxes

DanThe wrote:Your getting confused with M50, all M52 engines came with EWS and a Siemens ECU, no different colour labels like there is on the earlier M50 Bosch ECU's

Use the 328 box is the best way, much stronger unit and it rarely suffers from layshaft rattles like the older E30 boxes

thanks Dan, that's helpful.

so m52 engine, gearbox. What about diff and prop?

also how is the ews delete carried out?

mainfold and engine mounts - what's required?

thank you and apologies for all the questions, want to make sure im 100% sure before I start.

thanks again.

Dan will do the loom and also the ews delete and its a really good piece of kit looks verry professional I'm running m52 convertable engine arms with cylindrical m5 engine mounts you will need the m52 manual prop if using the m52 box and a e30 med case diff near the 3:25 ratio preferably if it's a daily driver

Can you retain an E30 key / barrel when you use the M52? EWS delete cancels the need for the transponder then”¦?

Yep standard key works fine even if you use the ews system you can use the standard key all you have to do is tape the reciver and key somewhere in the car and use the standard barrel

faissalo wrote:Can you retain an E30 key / barrel when you use the M52? EWS delete cancels the need for the transponder then ”¦?

this is another question I had actually.

faissalo wrote:Can you retain an E30 key / barrel when you use the M52? EWS delete cancels the need for the transponder then”¦?

Even if you keep the EWS, you still use the E30 key and barrel - the E36 barrel won't fit.
If you want functioning EWS, you remove the chip from the E36 key and fit it to an E30 torch key. The EWS antenna can be fitted around the E30 barrel.

Regarding the engine arms and mounts are there a number of options that can be used or only one?

its my first conversion so I know there may be various ways of doing it, but if you could let me know exactly what I need and the easiest way of doing it that would be really helpful. Thank you for all the replies and advice, it is really appreciated.

cheers

matt.

You need the E36 alloy engine arms. There are aftermarket options for the rubber mounts, but E28 M5 mounts can be used.

One thing not on your list is a Clio brake servo (from a plastic winged Clio around 2001).

If you're not happy with a soldering iron and picking through the loom I'd get the loom from Dan, same for the manifolds. They are the trickiest parts of the conversion and getting them done by Dan will make it easier and speed things right up.

The prop and diff will depend on your choice of gearbox, but I'd side with Dan and say go with the 328i box and cough up for an LSD with a suitable ratio.

It's also worth getting a lightened M20 flywheel, so you'll also need an M20 starter and clutch.

jmc330i wrote:You need the E36 alloy engine arms. There are aftermarket options for the rubber mounts, but E28 M5 mounts can be used.

One thing not on your list is a Clio brake servo (from a plastic winged Clio around 2001).

If you're not happy with a soldering iron and picking through the loom I'd get the loom from Dan, same for the manifolds. They are the trickiest parts of the conversion and getting them done by Dan will make it easier and speed things right up.

The prop and diff will depend on your choice of gearbox, but I'd side with Dan and say go with the 328i box and cough up for an LSD with a suitable ratio.

It's also worth getting a lightened M20 flywheel, so you'll also need an M20 starter and clutch.

Thanks mate. That's brilliant. Thanks for all the help. I will start on my shopping list now I know what's needed.

One more thing if I got a engine with a auto box, can a manual box be put onto it or is it a bit more complicated than that, are other changes required?

Also if I found a 328i complete car for under £700-800 would it be more worthwhile to buy a complete car and possibly save some money, or is it best to compile the parts separately?

Thank you

Auto makes no difference, a manual box will fit. You will obviously need to change to a manual flywheel, but as you'll most likely go with an M20 flywheel it's not an issue. One thing to remember if the engine is from an auto car is that you will need to fit a spigot bearing into the crank.

A donor car makes sense if its cheap enough, not only so you can drive the car to know the engine is good, but you'll be able to sell some parts you don't need and scrap the rest to recoupe some of the cost. Only problem with this is having the time and space to break a car and how long it may take to sell the parts you don't need - just remember you won't end up with a free engine! You need to ask is it worth your time and aggro breaking a car to maybe save yourself a bit of cash.

If your buying a whole car the only benefit is you can test the engine/box before hand, unless its a specced up car your not going to get much money back on an E36 nowadays.
You can pick up an engine/box/loom/ecu for £300-500

DanThe wrote:If your buying a whole car the only benefit is you can test the engine/box before hand, unless its a specced up car your not going to get much money back on an E36 nowadays.
You can pick up an engine/box/loom/ecu for £300-500

Thanks dan, I've put a ad up in the wanted section, will see what's available.

Thank you for your help. I'm sure I'll be in contact soon for a modified loom and manifold.

matt86 wrote:One more thing if I got a engine with a auto box, can a manual box be put onto it or is it a bit more complicated than that, are other changes required?

Also if I found a 328i complete car for under £700-800 would it be more worthwhile to buy a complete car and possibly save some money, or is it best to compile the parts separately?

Thank you

i paid £675 for this peach 328ise auto





it was far to good to break up but wtf it's an e36 and i broke it up and sold everything i didn't need over a few months and got about a grand from it so ended up with

free m52 2.8i , a/c type rad,a/c type twin speed fan, p/s rack 3.2 turns and a few other small nick nacks .

if you buy an auto you'll need a spigot bearing to match which gearbox you use .

i've used an m40 g/box and a 318is g/box and neither have lasted very long without making noises , layshaft idle

i'm using a 6-speed box this year and have an e36 5-speed as back up





m40 g/box = 320i prop
m42 g/box = 325i prop
m52 g/box = m52 prop

magpie wrote:

matt86 wrote:One more thing if I got a engine with a auto box, can a manual box be put onto it or is it a bit more complicated than that, are other changes required?

Also if I found a 328i complete car for under £700-800 would it be more worthwhile to buy a complete car and possibly save some money, or is it best to compile the parts separately?

Thank you

i paid £675 for this peach 328ise auto





it was far to good to break up but wtf it's an e36 and i broke it up and sold everything i didn't need over a few months and got about a grand from it so ended up with

free m52 2.8i , a/c type rad,a/c type twin speed fan, p/s rack 3.2 turns and a few other small nick nacks .

if you buy an auto you'll need a spigot bearing to match which gearbox you use .

i've used an m40 g/box and a 318is g/box and neither have lasted very long without making noises , layshaft idle

i'm using a 6-speed box this year and have an e36 5-speed as back up





m40 g/box = 320i prop
m42 g/box = 325i prop
m52 g/box = m52 prop

thanks for letting me know, that's helpful.

im keeping my eye out for a car, as have seen a few between 500-600.

i think the genuine cats weigh in for 80, car for 80 and if it has leather interior, nice wheels and bits and pieces that should get me a chunk of money back.

also waiting to hear back from b7, as he will have a conversion available in the near future.

Ive got the engine, prop and gearbox out now and have a m52 conversion lined up. Will see how I get on, may still have a few questions at some point.

Actually if I use the m52 engine and box, which prop and diff do I use and are any modifications or additional parts required?

Thanks

you'll need a longer diff using the e36 box .... like 3.07,3.15 from a z3 but you need to use e30 medium case half shafts .

magpie wrote: you need to use e30 medium case half shafts .

As there is sometimes confusion between half shaft and driveshaft, its the E30 medium case diff output flanges that get fitted to the Z3 diff. The E30 driveshafts don't get changed.

http://www.gumtree.com/p/bmw/bmw-328i/1096756390

http://www.gumtree.com/p/bmw/bmw-327-1998/1096715696