full vanos rebuild
Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 5:52 pm
how much is a full vanos kit? which parts are replaced and what tooling is needed to do the job?
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Re: full vanos rebuild
Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 11:46 pm
ouch!!
Re: full vanos rebuild
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 12:16 am
It's usually just the seals that needs replacing.
Contact Danthe for seals, he may even be able to do the job for you.
Contact Danthe for seals, he may even be able to do the job for you.
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 2:46 am
i STILL have this missfire and im running out of things to replace!
diagnostics, then a few more sensors, coils, then vanos
if its still missfiring after that im crushing it into a cube and using it as a coffee table
diagnostics, then a few more sensors, coils, then vanos
if its still missfiring after that im crushing it into a cube and using it as a coffee table
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 2:47 am
was it dezzys build thread that had a fucked vanos sprocket? what were the symptoms of that?
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Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:47 pm
think im going to do mine soon too, one minute pulls gd then sometimes cant feel it kick in 
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Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:53 pm
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:28 am
It was my engine that had a damaged cam trigger wheel that caused the missfire, the vanos itself wont cause a missfire. The only part that needs replacing is the seal, sometimes they are so bad the piston and bore get scraped and the bearing can wear, if its that bad though I just use a different unit.
Monkey posted some pics showing a much easier way to change the seal, think it was in one of your threads Lee?
Monkey posted some pics showing a much easier way to change the seal, think it was in one of your threads Lee?
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:46 pm
what caused the wear on the cam trigger wheel? is it not worth changing?DanThe wrote:It was my engine that had a damaged cam trigger wheel that caused the missfire, the vanos itself wont cause a missfire. The only part that needs replacing is the seal, sometimes they are so bad the piston and bore get scraped and the bearing can wear, if its that bad though I just use a different unit.
Monkey posted some pics showing a much easier way to change the seal, think it was in one of your threads Lee?
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:52 pm
It wasnt wear it was damage, something had dented it
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Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 1:48 pm
rich 318i - mine does exactly the same thing!! one minute the car is like an absolute rocket, then she feels flat and i can tel she just isnt pulling as hard. feels like shes holding back. then she goes like a rocket again. very wierd, but ive put this down to knackered vanos seal and the piston getting stuck some of the time.
its defo on my to-do list thats for sure!
its defo on my to-do list thats for sure!
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Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 8:43 pm
cool mate let me know the out come.
mine kicks in all the time going down hill
mine kicks in all the time going down hill
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Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 8:52 pm
There's pictures on my m50 thread about when me an monkey did my vanos seals the easy way
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Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 8:56 pm
where mate cant find it. can you post the link?
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:50 pm
Some similar pics in my thread here - http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... &start=625
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:02 pm
all great info, thats why i asked about locking up the engine and timing with the M20 fly cos i want to do the vanos.DanThe wrote:Some similar pics in my thread here - http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... &start=625
so there is no way really to lock up the engine with the M20 fly? i like to be safe than sorry
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:54 pm
Only fitterz have to lock the engines 
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:58 pm
Should of drilled the timing hole in the m20 flywheel before fitting but I didn't!
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:43 pm
How would you get it in the right place? Also id be much more concerned about how the hole affected the strength and balance of the flywheelB15NAC wrote:Should of drilled the timing hole in the m20 flywheel before fitting but I didn't!
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:47 pm
Well bolt a m50 flywheel on to a m20 one an drill through but I wouldnt go all the way through! Monkey advised me to do that!
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:52 pm
FYI I had an M20 flywheel and clutch balanced and the weight removal was 10mm drill holes approx 1mm deep, see pic below. Imagine how a deep hole affects the balance!
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:56 pm
Well im only going by what monkey said an as someone who has built an made one of the best an quickes e30 m50,s I've seen I'm sure it's possible
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:06 pm
niel my old m50 did not have the hole drilled in the flywheel as i told you it was just a thought for timing it up . lee's old m50 e30 did and it ran ok . mine was ok but i'm sure there are much better 24v e30s than my old one
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Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:10 pm
Yea I no you didn't but think its a good idea I would do it next time! An I think you wouldn't get a cleaner m50 than your one was!
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:10 pm
just put this on my M20 flywheel help.
would this work....
get TDC put the car in gear and put the hand brake on?
or is there away to lock the flywheel with the starter?
would this work....
get TDC put the car in gear and put the hand brake on?
or is there away to lock the flywheel with the starter?
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 11:49 am
right im going to have a go at this now.
it think i might try monkeys method- it seems to work alright
will report back with pics
it think i might try monkeys method- it seems to work alright
will report back with pics
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Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 2:54 pm
Were both the pressure plate and flywheel were balanced together as one object?DanThe wrote:
FYI I had an M20 flywheel and clutch balanced and the weight removal was 10mm drill holes approx 1mm deep, see pic below. Imagine how a deep hole affects the balance!
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Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:11 pm
Flywheel first, then both together