E30 Zone

Hey guys

(Sorry for my post being all over the place. Im just putting down information which i think might help you guys help me out.)

Im hoping you guys can help me out. I bought a 320 with a m30b35 conversion inside. However, i seem to be having some problems with it. When the throttle is pressed slowly, it will USUALLY pick up revs fine. However, when the pedal is pushed quickly to the floor, it splutters to the point of either cutting out, or almost cutting out. The car had a 3 inch exhaust with only back box fitted by the original builder, and has an awful smell of over fueling. Im not sure if this is a cause/problem, but it can throw a lot of black smoke out while it misfiring down low. Basically, standing behind it can be a right task.

You can see in this video that it CAN rev fine if you dont let it go to idle, and on a slow push on the throttle.



However, with a quick push of the pedal, it sounds and acts like this :



Ive changed the Air Flow meter ( Also checked it with a Voltmeter and seems to be putting out correct voltage). Ive changed the spark plugs. Ive checked for air leaks in the pipes, and also around the manifolds. All seem to be fine. Im thinking maybe Dizzy and Rotor next?

Sorry for the facebook links.

Hey Ares,

Yes it sounds like it choking up and misfiring. Try a new dizzy cap and rotor as when old the spark misses the terminals and becomes inaccurate. The engine is probably dumping unburnt fuel where you strong fuel smell comes from. Also check resistance on your HT leads, they should all be consistent.

Check the blue temperature sensor resistance - measure it at the ECU socket to also verify that the wiring is OK.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... emp_Sensor

Also test the AFM to ensure its resistance varies linearly as you move the flap:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... f-gaspedal

Hi,

Some simple checks i would do are:

Change the DME relay - easy job

Check the Throttle control switch is set up right - also check the part number is correct as these switches look exactly like the M20 switches but work differently.

Check and check again for any vacuum leaks although if revs ok slowly then it sounds fine

There is a fuel pressure regulator at the end of your fuel rail - check the vacuum hose is attached both ends and the hose is not perished. I have a spare FPR if you need one (cost of postage only)

Like Chris said, run some resistance checks on the HT leads and the have a visual inspection of the rotor arm and dizzy cap.

Also, its worth checking your injectors are all connteded properly to the wiring loom plugs (i had this problem)

Worth checking the crank sensor and pulse sensor are connected to the right socket on the engine loom also.

Have you cleaned up the crank sensor and checked the clearance is 1mm ?

Let me know the results

How's it going ? Any news ?

Not yet. A family death has prevented me from getting to work on the car this week. Hopefully get it sorted next week and get back to you guys