E30 Zone

I'm going to replace my m20b25 for a m30b30 engine.
Why not a 3.5? Well, I bought this complete engine for 100 pounds, runs very well and I can always replace it for a b35 engine if I want.
Also I have a short, 25% diff which I cannot use for a 3.5, or only use 4 gears..
Since the cab is already heavier then a normal e30, the brakes could use an upgrade. Ferodo was a bit better than OEM but not enough for the weightgain.
So first a better brakekit, front and back;



Braking hard has become more fun then acceleration...

Replaced the bearing shells and bolts, just to be safe.



Also a new waterpump, thermostat, e28535 rad, Sachs clutch and I'm thinking to do the head gasket and seals as well, not sure yet..

Nice Keep us updated

I hate to say this, But stick with the b25 over the b30 all day long. Might have a bit extra torque but it's still lazy and you will loose out in drive-abilty. Find a b35 if you want a big 6.

There are plenty of diff's out there if you look too.

But then, once the b30 is fitted, all the hard work will be done and will be an easy job to fit the b35 when one comes along

What brakes are they by the way?

When you go b35 take the cam out of the b30 and fit it, iirc they use a better cam.

Keep the updates coming along with the pics

Bristol_Jer wrote:But then, once the b30 is fitted, all the hard work will be done and will be an easy job to fit the b35 when one comes along
What brakes are they by the way?

That's my point of view, now I bought a cheap engine and have the complete m30 set up. When I'm not satisfied with the b30 it's an easy swap. The next engine will be completely rebuild, so either a b30 or b35.. Gotta have something to do
I think this set-up will be ok with the short diff, otherwise a dogleg is an other option.
Brakes came off a e23 750, disc and adapters are 300mm.de Referenzsystem, Ate pads. This stuff gives great stopping power, feels great. The OEM brakes are crap on a convertible.

Hey martijn pleased to see you got the thread up, brakes are looking very tasty indeed.. www.300mm.de ???

Looks like it'll be a good build even if it is only the B30 for now

Charlie

Yes, brakes(and enginemounts) came from www.300mm.de.
I'm gonna use a m20 type 2 engineloom in the pre facelift chassis, hope that I can keep the checkcontrol without too much work.
What did you guys do with the lambda? In most pictures of the exhaust system I couldn't spot one..

There are no lambda's on M30's over here, maybe a few very late ones.

Well, that's explaines why I don't see them in the pictures
Only the early e28/e23/e24 m30's came without lambda here in Holland/Germany..

Since the wiring is the only thing I'm a bit worried about, I want to be sure I'm going the right way here. I can rebuild an engine, but a couple of wires freak me out
I'm using a 1988 m20 engine loom on a 1986 car, so with the pulsegenerator on the gearbox etc.

-I think I have to connect wire no 1 in the glovebox to pin 9 on the engine loom for the rev counter to work
-what to do with pin 3 glovebox, does that go to pin 3(white/black) on the engineloom? or somewhere else?

That's it? or what am I missing here?

This is what I don't get, only 11 pins are used on my car. I cannot find anything like that, it's 14 or more.

Putting the pieces back together

Looking good!

I'm strugling with the m20 loom, it's easier when you take it of an engine yourself..
Last thing to solve;
ones on top go to the ignition coil
middle ones to negative(?)
the last wire on the bottom to the plus pole(?)

Thanks.

I had this problem,

The 2 wires that go to the coil, the eyelet connectors are different sizes, to match the poles on the coil, they are either the top or middle group of wires.

There should also be 2 earth wires, in either the top or middle group, with the same size eyelets

The bottom wire, I am not sure of

Does the bottom wire go to the starter?

If you slice some of the sleeve you should be able to see what colour the wire is, ie red or black.

The two on top go to the coil for sure, so the middle ones should be the negative and bottom a plus. The starter is too far away for that one.
I can cut them open, but rather keep them the way they are.

I didn't see that the oilpan had a small crack, saw it after painting and a small oil stain came on... So new oil pan found on ebay.de and delivered in 3 days, small delay.
Today mounted a e36 m3 3.0 steeringrack and connected all the wiring on the engine.
Now I have to come up with something to mount the e34 electric fan.
You don't get to play in the engine bay that often, so I'm there all day..

It's in, but not in position 3, so I have to get it out again...
This is not the same as a M42 swap, quite a struggle to get that engine in the right spot.
Some don't have to ajust the firewall, unfortunally I do..

You should be able to get it from Position 2 to 3 without taking the engine right out, I did it on mine without too much trouble. I had to give 'modify' my bulkhead (firewall) too.

I wrote a brief guide on how to get it in pos 3, it might help.

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 93#1975693

IT'S IN!!

Tried to start today, no go...
I found out that the fuelpump is not running, changed the relais but no luck, fuse is ok.
Had to stop for work, so I'm gonna search this weekend.
Any suggestions?

Have you got petrol, is power getting to the pump. if fuse and relay ok and u have petrol and power to pump, i'd say you need a new pump

The result;


Now only the airfilterbox needs some freshing up, then I hope to be finished for a while..