E30 Zone

I need to make a subframe to remove my massive toe and camber issues on the back of my touring...

I don't think i've helped matters because i've put a saloon 325i Spax PSX kit onto the touring...whicih has more weight in the back...

its a bit bouncy on the back, i think the 60mm rear is a tad too low for it, and is causing it to bounce ontop of the spring if that makes sence..

I notice the rear suspenstion shocks onthe touring were much larger then the saloon ones i fitted.. yet they still fitted ect.

cause much of a problem do you think ??

too low ?

a better picture for showing its height.

For camber, you need to weld on some slotted plates like this:



For toe, you weld them on at 90 degrees like this:



You can see both together in this picture (after blasting and powder coating):



I didn't take any pictures with the eccentric bolts, but you can see some more info here:

http://e30m3performance.com/installs/in ... /index.htm

Cheers,

Ian.

thats sweet, i was looking at doing some very like this... i thought about having slots but couldn't think how i could make sure they wouldn't move...

I was thinking of them eccentric bolts like found on supras ect

have you fitted this to your car ???

I'm more interested now to see how much camber correction it can give ? also toe.

I would like to knock the camber back to around .9degree, and toe to 0 if i could.

superclarkey wrote:thats sweet, i was looking at doing some very like this... i thought about having slots but couldn't think how i could make sure they wouldn't move...

I was thinking of them eccentric bolts like found on supras ect

have you fitted this to your car ???

I'm more interested now to see how much camber correction it can give ? also toe.

I would like to knock the camber back to around .9degree, and toe to 0 if i could.

It's currently wrapped in bubble wrap on my garage floor, but will hopefully find its way onto the car in the next couple of weeks. I'm not sure how much camber correction it will give, but it's apparently enough to correct most problems. There should be more than enough to correct any toe problems, but toe is not such an issue as camber on a lowered E30.

I do actually have a very similar camber kit available if you are interested. It's got longer slotted plates to give extra camber adjustment, and eccentric bolts made using large washers. Here's a picture.




Cheers,

Ian.

Its not the camber i notice... camber just gives me less girp and makes it slight easyer... but kills tyres...

its the toe i feel, it gives it silly traction when on full lock like it top of 3rd.. and engine starts to bog down...

i have S50 sorted to go in, just got to finish the front camber top plates and adjustbale front TCA/s, ordered some rose joits to convert the trailing arms, so toe should be corrected with them tbh. camber plates would be nice.

did you make that kit, or did you buy it ect ?

could be interested if the right price otherwise an hour on the miller will sort some out

ian332isport wrote: and eccentric bolts made using large washers.

How come you're not using E39 bolts, Ian?

I bought the kit from Ireland Engineering in the states. I believe it was $85 plus shipping. I'd let it go for £40 delivered, but if you have access to a mill, then it's probably easier/cheaper for you to make your own.

Ian.

Brianmoooore wrote:

ian332isport wrote: and eccentric bolts made using large washers.

How come you're not using E39 bolts, Ian?

Hi Brian,

I am on my car. When I ordered the camber and toe kits from Ireland Engineering, they supplied the above pictured kit for the camber, and the E39 bolt type kit for toe.

I wasn't happy using the welded bolt kit pictured above, so had the toe kit plates copied locally, and bought another set of E39 bolts from the dealer.

You know me Brian - only genuine parts on my car

Ian.

sounds good, maybe you could be a pal and give me a few simple dimentions of the good kit you've got so i could make them without having to take my car to bits first to messure what i need.

I'll order the E39 bolts from BMW tomorrow so i have the sizes of the widths ect. (as the diameter of the bolt will tell how wide they need to be)

but if you could give me a idea of what size ect, i may even run a few sets off tbh.

thanx.

I can do better than that. I did a drawing

if i ever see you at one of the meets or what ever... i'll hump ya



ta.

now i can be lazy and do it on the cnc haha.

superclarkey wrote:if i ever see you at one of the meets or what ever... i'll hump ya

is that my old Axle Ian?!

goodwork now i can see what you guys are on about now!

ian332isport wrote:

superclarkey wrote:if i ever see you at one of the meets or what ever... i'll hump ya

Pacer wannabe ?

i retract my humping statment

Simon13 wrote:is that my old Axle Ian?!

goodwork now i can see what you guys are on about now!

Hi Simon,

Yep, that's the one I got from you

Ian, so you're adjusting toe one side and camber the other?

Jhonno wrote:Ian, so you're adjusting toe one side and camber the other?

No.

There's camber AND toe adjustment on both sides. Both inner trailing arm pivots (nearest the diff) are adjustable for camber, and both outer pivots are for toe.

The camber adjusters move the trailing arm pivot point upwards, so reducing camber. The toe adjusters move forwards and backwards allowing the toe to be fine tuned. I personally only have camber issues on mine, but thought I would fit the toe adjusters while I was at it. I'd have only kicked myself if I found I needed it later.

Ian.

I'm going to install both sides for camber, so basicly they both point to the ground, instead of 90degrees to each other... this way i'll have totaly control over camber only... as i don't like the idea of a compermise.

not to mention, winding the toe out is going to shift the wheel back by the same amount as the pivet point is the other slot hole ect... so i intend to rose joint the trailing arms for toe corrections, this way the pivet point is the between the two rose joints and i can not only correct the toe, but also thet position of the wheel. and camber off these slots.

if that makes sence

ian332isport wrote:

Jhonno wrote:Ian, so you're adjusting toe one side and camber the other?

No.

There's camber AND toe adjustment on both sides. Both inner trailing arm pivots (nearest the diff) are adjustable for camber, and both outer pivots are for toe.

The camber adjusters move the trailing arm pivot point upwards, so reducing camber. The toe adjusters move forwards and backwards allowing the toe to be fine tuned. I personally only have camber issues on mine, but thought I would fit the toe adjusters while I was at it. I'd have only kicked myself if I found I needed it later.

Ian.

in that pic tho the far ones are both horizontal and near both vertical or am i bein daft as a brush?

they are one side mate....

hope this helps you out.

to me or ian... I can see what he means to get both adjustable, but that beam has the 2 horizontally slotted tabs on one side and both vertical slotted ones on the other

yeah.... so you have the trailing arm fit into both of them with a bush... like the above picture...

When the one goes up... this adjust the camber of the wheel... when the other one goes backwards or forwards this would adjust the toe.

you basicly modifying the angles to which the trailing arm pivots off the beam.

hope this makes sence.

otherwise i'll draw you a pciture

yeah yeah, dont get me wrong, i understand how it works, but im sayin the pic Ian posted of the beam, has the tabs welded on wrong to achieve the desired result

Jhonno wrote:in that pic tho the far ones are both horizontal and near both vertical or am i bein daft as a brush?

Dan,

I'm afraid you're being daft

Imagine a trailing arm fitted to the subframe, pivoting on a pair of bolts. If you slide the inner (camber bolt) upward in the slots, it changes the angle of the trailing arm, and reduces the negative camber. If you slide the outer bolt forwards or backwards in the slot, it changes the toe.

Ian.

Come on Dan, Even I have followed this one!

ian332isport wrote:

But in this pic one side of the beam has the horizontal tabs and the other the vertical ones no?

From what you were saying the outer ones should be horizontal and the inner vertical..

d6dph wrote:Come on Dan, Even I have followed this one!

Is that photo not taken from the diff position? Which would make the slots the correct way round.