E30 Zone

Im having some big problems with keeping my m52 cool on the track. The last time I tracked it we took off the bonnet off just to keep it from boiling. Im planning on handing it over to a "mechanic" once Iv tried a few things like a new metal thermostat housing, gaskets, bigger 16" fan to cover the entire rad. The oil temp was way too high as well but I cant afford to add an oil cooler.

Any tips on how I could cool properly? Waterless coolant?


Specs now are;
12" 80w fan
440mm x 440mm rad
88 degree stat

Fan shouldn't make a difference on track, fresh air flowing through the rad is far more efficient than any fan. Fan is only for when the car is moving slowly or not at all. If your fan IS on when you are on track, it will be hindering airflow rather than helping to cool and may be part of your problem. Next step if that isn't the case is a bigger radiator. S50 rad with external expansion tank is very popular.

thats a bigger then usual rad - have you opened up the vents on your lower valance for a/c equipped cars?

Maybe the fan is blocked - new rad might help (brand new) or try cleaning the gunk out from inbetween the fins (degreaser foam and hose pipe - pressure washer will bend the fins)

With regards to your coolant, assuming its not boiling, would be more efficient with a lower ratio of antifreeze to water as ethylene glycol based coolants have a lower thermal conductivity than straight water, but the trade off is less corrosion inhibition and water pump lubrication. If you're running a 50:50 water/antifreeze ratio, try knocking it down to 70:30 or so?
I've also heard of a few people using 'water wetter' on the road and at the track with apparently good results, but I've not used it myself so I can't comment.

Have you got all the standard ducting in place and in good condition? Is the system 100% bled?

Great info there thanks.

The shell is a 316i so the valance is blocking the lower part of the rad. Thats a good place to start.

The fan was permanently ON while on the track. Most of the shroud/ vents have been hacked away so I could probably do some work on that part. I didnt realise the natural flowing air was so important. I guess my cooling system is far from efficient.

There has been some issue with this car for years now in terms of cooling, even with other engines. Could be the crap fan attached to the front of the rad in that case. The standard e30 fan a few inches away and shroud is probably much better. My skills in mechanics lack basic knowledge so I think Ill bring it to a pro just to check the basics like gaskets and bleeding.

Proper ducting will work wonders. People underestimate the importance of properly ducted air. Also a giant fan can cause more resistance to the airflow and cause problems rather than solve them. The E30 viscous fan being away from the rad is only a packaging thing and it's efficiency comes from the shroud around it, take the shroud away and all it would do is whisk air around the engine bay. An electric fan needs to be mounted directly to the rad with no gap between it and the face of the rad. If you have a gap between the fan and the rad, if it's a pusher fan the air can blow out the side before it gets through the rad. And if it's a pull fan it can suck air from around the side and not through the rad. In both cases it's efficiency is gone.

Quite a few people are running these engines in their track cars so sure there's enough knowledge on the subject. Just make sure the fundamentals are there before going and spending money on parts. A simple one can be to raise the rear of the bonnet slightly which helps airflow through the engine bay.

Im fairly sure most of the ducting is missing or has been hacked away so thats probably 1 of the problems.

Would this oil sandwich plate fit an m52?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Sandwich- ... 2c81335499

Problem you have with the M52 it doesn't have a screw on type oil filter which that adaptor is designed for. I'm not sure how you go about adapting the filter housing to run lines to and from an oil cooler to be honest, it's the same situation for the M42. I'm not sure if you could adapt or fit the S52 housing as that provisions for an oil cooler. What are your oil temps? Solving your water water temp issues will being oil temps under control too.

The standard way of doing it is fitting the e36 m3 oil housing. Im having trouble finding one and Id say they are not cheap.

How about this cap, a small 12v oil pump to circulate the oil around a front mount rad? Or am I getting a bit silly???
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Filter-Li ... 27dc6bc8b5

You don't need a pump because the oil system is pressurised but 1/8npt ports will not give you the required flow and be a massive restriction.

As Rich says, bring down the coolant temp and the oil temp should follow. Only start thinking about a cooler if the oil temp doesn't come down enough.

Have you got your fan wired to a temp switch in the rad or on a permanent live? If you're using a temp switch and the fan is on all the time, then something isn't right elsewhere. If you're using a permanent live, then get a temp switch in the rad and the fan will only switch on when it's needed.

I've got an 80-degree stat and 88/92 degree temp switch wired to the E36 electric fan, which as much of the cowling left as I could manage. Car only gets hot when idling or at prolonged periods < 30 mph. Temp creeps up to about 3/4 then fan kicks in and brings it back down again in seconds. Fan's not had to run at the higher speed yet.

If I've been in traffic and the temp is sitting over halfway, a quick motorway blast soon brings it back down! Sits at just below halfway on a fast run.

Motorhole wrote: Have you got your fan wired to a temp switch in the rad or on a permanent live? If you're using a temp switch and the fan is on all the time, then something isn't right elsewhere. If you're using a permanent live, then get a temp switch in the rad and the fan will only switch on when it's needed.

I've got an 80-degree stat and 88/92 degree temp switch wired to the E36 electric fan,

I have a similar setup to yours. The fan is switched and Im using an 88 degree stat. I do have some kind of problem with my system I think but Id like a few upgrades while Im at it.

Yeah in that case then, if your fan is being switched on by running on track, your car is probably running too hot for another reason. Unless you”˜re drifting which wouldn”˜t allow as much air to flow through the rad AND the engine is always running hard - that”˜s the one instance where having a bigger fan, running as you drive, can be beneficial.