E30 Zone

Posted: **Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:24 pm**

On my last adjustable rear beam, I welded the camber tabs so that the original bolt holes were in the middle of the slot.

I suppose the place to weld it would really depend on the target ride height for the car. Obviously the lower the car the more camber it will naturally have.

However, the next car I am modding a beam for has to be suitable for a mixture of tarmac and gravel stages which obviously have very different ride heights.

Would anybody else care to explain where and why you placed your tabs and or how you planned the adjustment range ?

I would like to measure the camber on a standard car and then one with a 30mm drop and then 40mm etc to see how the camber increases as the height decreases...

What is the chance somebody has done this already and fancies sharing the info (slim I expect, but you know - if you dont ask and all that !)

I would like to make a graph of rear ride height vs camber. Its not essential and more out of interest and being pedantic but hey, it keeps me off the streets lol...

Will

Posted: **Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:24 pm**

Hi will, the graph showing camber and ride height would be very interesting, ride height being the independent variable obviously...

I wouldnt want to have more negative camber, so I would position the tabs to allow for maximum closeness to 0 as possible.

Posted: **Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:35 pm**

Yes, I would like to retain some negative as this is not a road car, but another thing I have been wondering is what range of adjustment the camber tabs give ? When mine was set up I was in a hurry to get out as it was literally en route to my germany trip !

I am going to take my car to an alignment place and see - unless anybody has tried this already !?

Will

Posted: **Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:10 pm**

i think i read somewhere 0.6 degrees adjustment either way...i may be wrong though.

Posted: **Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:36 pm**

hmm thats not much if so

.

I think mine is set at pretty much -1.5 deg at the rear.

Posted: **Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:47 pm**

That's alright, how low is it?

Remember subframe can be raised 12mm to further bring camber closer to 0. That's what I've done

Posted: **Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:55 pm**

The M52 track car is about right (ie: -1.5deg is feeling good), probably running around 30/40mm drop at the rear. But I dont know if it is set to minimum/mid/or max camber adjustment.

I need to have a good look at the M52 car's setting and find out the definate adjustment range for comparison before welding a new beam up !

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:46 am**

You can raise the subframe 35mm if you have a welder, basically standard camber and moves the diff and shafts up with it so that you dont run into driveshaft angle problems

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:54 am**

Wouldn't the prop then be running at a funny angle?

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 12:36 pm**

martinpallot wrote:You can raise the subframe 35mm if you have a welder, basically standard camber and moves the diff and shafts up with it so that you dont run into driveshaft angle problems

Yes, I noticed that on your previous build Martin. I am also using the E36 diff cover, I was chuffed to see you had already done it and I had a reference to help me.

I expect that there should be no problems with the prop angle at 35mm but if there is I guess raising the centre bearing a little should help things ?

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 12:55 pm**

Whilst raising the subframe, you could put spacers between diff and subframe, to lower the diff abit if your prop angles are too extreme.

Martin, how did you raise the subframe 35mm? That's an amazing roll centre correction. Must put the trailing arms right back in the sweet spot!

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:07 pm**

See about half way down in the link below, turns out it was actually 30mm. However you could go as high as you want really, I'm going to go 40mm on my current build.
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 3&start=50

Propshaft angles do have to be altered as does the tilt of the engine and box slightly. I wouldnt say its an easy job but definately worth doing on a dedicated race or track car.

Spacing the diff down kind of defeats the object of doing it this way.

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:17 pm**

martinpallot wrote:See about half way down in the link below, turns out it was actually 30mm. However you could go as high as you want really, I'm going to go 40mm on my current build.
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 3&start=50

Propshaft angles do have to be altered as does the tilt of the engine and box slightly. I wouldnt say its an easy job but definately worth doing on a dedicated race or track car.

Spacing the diff down kind of defeats the object of doing it this way.

That looks very good.

Spacing the diff down wouldn't defeat the object at all would it? I thought that the whole point was to put the trailing arms in a neutral position as they are on an OEM e30 so the dynamic and toe changes are less severe compared to an already 70mm lowered e30 for example.

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:24 pm**

redcar told me i need to space my differential down with washers like he has done

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:56 pm**

Demlotcrew wrote:redcar told me i need to space my differential down with washers like he has done

Super strong washers from Wickes!!!

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:03 pm**

Bodger!

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:04 pm**

Demlotcrew wrote:Bodger!

You'd be surprised with what one can achieve with a pack of washers from Wickes

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:23 pm**

What?

Posted: **Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:10 pm**

So can anybody else let me know if they mounted the tabs in the same position or elsewhere ?

Thanks fella's.

Will

Posted: **Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:12 pm**

I put them on my sunroof, gave my 9° more rake at full tilt.

Posted: **Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:13 pm**

position not location !

Posted: **Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:22 pm**

Demlotcrew wrote:I put them on my sunroof, gave my 9° more rake at full tilt.

Will need this on an SRE30 so when it comes on boost, the resultant wheelie will result in a more neutral position of the car.

Posted: **Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:25 pm**

Driftnething wrote:So can anybody else let me know if they mounted the tabs in the same position ?

Thanks fella's.

Will

Posted: **Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:10 am**

Hi, with the toe adjustment plate, some people weld it in with the original hole dead centre to the slotted hole in the toe adjustment plate.

However, for camber, people put the original hole right at the bottom, so it would allow the maximum potential to return camber as close to zero on very low e30s.

I think if you do it like that, you can bring the camber by about 0.75 degrees closer to zero.

Posted: **Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:19 am**

redcar, you are obsessed with with zero camber on the rear, is that what you run on your E30?

Posted: **Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:30 am**

redcar wrote:Hi, with the toe adjustment plate, some people weld it in with the original hole dead centre to the slotted hole in the toe adjustment plate.

However, for camber, people put the original hole right at the bottom, so it would allow the maximum potential to return camber as close to zero on very low e30s.

I think if you do it like that, you can bring the camber by about 0.75 degrees closer to zero.

I know someone who did that.. They can't get enough camber now.

Put it in the middle. Simple.

Posted: **Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:51 am**

Demlotcrew wrote:redcar, you are obsessed with with zero camber on the rear, is that what you run on your E30?

yeh, until i hit a minute bump and the trailing arm of doom leads to a couple of degreeS of negative cambeR under the slight compression.

Posted: **Wed Apr 11, 2012 10:00 am**

Redcar I think you should sell your scrap to Karan, you obviously don't deserve an E30, buy a Sylvia and stop spamming threads with inaccurate information.

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