Hi guys,
Im thinking of doing this modification, wondered what your thoughts are. Lots of info on here http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90004
Only problem is using longer tie rod ends, seems that you use e34 ones. Also im not sure where to bolt sway bar links, not sure if you can weld bracket onto gaz golds anodised legs?
Tim
e30 to e46 lower control arm swap
Moderator: martauto
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
benefits of mod are more castor and major neg camber, up to -8 deg 
but with camber plates you can get it back to -3/4 deg
but with camber plates you can get it back to -3/4 deg
Hi Tim,
Philip and Wayne Emmenis have this mod on their Silvercup car. Attaching the ARB is quite intuitive, you'll see what needs doing once you get down there. A bracket has to be made up if memory serves correctly, but it's no train smash and easy to do. I can try and get some pics of their suspension for you when I next see them. I was down having a look under their car at Zwartkops this past weekend and would have taken pics then had I known that you were interested. As I see it, most of your effort will be spent having a custom lollipop bush made up so that the larger diameter (hexagonalish) bit on the end of the E46 arm can be accomodated. One way to do this to take a stock E46 bush and have it modified to fit into the outer metal ring of an E30 bush. The only company I know local to SA that can do this sort of thing for you is Rubamet (here in Pretoria), but maybe you can find a ruber/PU specialist local to you in the Cape. If all else fails, Rubamet will post bits up and down the country for you (they used to do this for me while I lived in Natal). As for the tie-rod end, I'd recommend fitting an E46 rack anyway. Assuming you have camber plates, your minium camber will be around -3 degree. From there on you will be able to adjust down to typically around -7/-8 degrees.
Philip and Wayne Emmenis have this mod on their Silvercup car. Attaching the ARB is quite intuitive, you'll see what needs doing once you get down there. A bracket has to be made up if memory serves correctly, but it's no train smash and easy to do. I can try and get some pics of their suspension for you when I next see them. I was down having a look under their car at Zwartkops this past weekend and would have taken pics then had I known that you were interested. As I see it, most of your effort will be spent having a custom lollipop bush made up so that the larger diameter (hexagonalish) bit on the end of the E46 arm can be accomodated. One way to do this to take a stock E46 bush and have it modified to fit into the outer metal ring of an E30 bush. The only company I know local to SA that can do this sort of thing for you is Rubamet (here in Pretoria), but maybe you can find a ruber/PU specialist local to you in the Cape. If all else fails, Rubamet will post bits up and down the country for you (they used to do this for me while I lived in Natal). As for the tie-rod end, I'd recommend fitting an E46 rack anyway. Assuming you have camber plates, your minium camber will be around -3 degree. From there on you will be able to adjust down to typically around -7/-8 degrees.
"It is amazing how many drivers, even at the Formula-1 level, think that brakes are for slowing the car down." - Mario Andretti
I have also thought about this, but it contravenes the rule for series I was/am building my car for.
I remember reading that thread some time ago and thinking, what a sweet modification, and really quite simple.
With regards to fitting the control arms into the control arm bushes, there is always the option to machine down the hexagonal arm to a suitable round shape. The only problem might be that by doing so may weaken the arm (I am not sure).
I remember reading that thread some time ago and thinking, what a sweet modification, and really quite simple.
With regards to fitting the control arms into the control arm bushes, there is always the option to machine down the hexagonal arm to a suitable round shape. The only problem might be that by doing so may weaken the arm (I am not sure).
Cheers,
Michael.
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tim_haynes
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Cape Town
yeah does look like a sweet mod, i was also thinking of machining the arm down, that guy in the forum just grinded his, i dont think it will weaken it to much!
I notice that his car is for drifting but im sure for track or race use it would be a good upgrade.
I might start this project and ill post pics up if i do.
I notice that his car is for drifting but im sure for track or race use it would be a good upgrade.
I might start this project and ill post pics up if i do.
Friend of mine tried this on his S54 drift car last year but if I remember correctly there was actually too much castor and camber so I think he's going back to the original idea of making custom wishbones when he starts building it again as the current season is finished now which he was using an M3 Compact for.
M42 rightness above 6500rpm, nobody can hear you scream
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billgatese30
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
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How much more castor angle do you gain. Too much castor is a bad thing as it can dramatically increase dynamic camber which can have a negative effect if you are planning on racing on tighter circuits. I suppose you may be able to dial it out to a certain degree as you can with the camber.
It's and interesting idea, but I'm struggling to see what it adds other than a slightly wider track width on the front (not necessarily a good thing without doing similar to the rear, depending of course on the width of the rear to begin with). With coilovers and adjustable top mounts you can already get a good -3/4 degrees of camber with decent castor. How much more of either is really required (I'm not sure what the ideal range is for E30's)?
It's and interesting idea, but I'm struggling to see what it adds other than a slightly wider track width on the front (not necessarily a good thing without doing similar to the rear, depending of course on the width of the rear to begin with). With coilovers and adjustable top mounts you can already get a good -3/4 degrees of camber with decent castor. How much more of either is really required (I'm not sure what the ideal range is for E30's)?
