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De-badged bonnet thoughts?
Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 4:16 pm
by e30mclow
I'm getting a full respray in the coming weeks and I'm unsure weather or not to flush the bonnet, it looks nice in my opinion but there is no going back once the badge well is filled up. Has anyone pics of badge-less bonnets to help me decide???
Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 6:05 pm
by NL-BMW
Looks good IMO

Re:
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 8:38 am
by Sharabi
Flush bonnets and boots can look ace, but please make sure that if you do it you get it done properly, as the last thing you want is filler cracking (i know from experience

)
I have been told it should be Lead filled so as to prevent cracking as time goes on.
Re:
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 8:50 am
by e30mclow
Lead filled? Iv never heard of that being done. Is this what zoners have done? I would be interested in hearing how anybody on here has actually done it and what the results were like.. I recon I'll leave the BMW badge on the boot for the time being
Re:
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:23 am
by mrLEE30
i will second the above, i had a full respray on mine ans considered this too, but decided against it. lead filling is when they melt lead with a gas torch and literally wipe it into the hole unitl the hole is full of lead, then they file, grind and sand it flat and finish with a bit of body filler, it takes the correct lead (type H) and someone who knows what they are doing. if done well it looks great, if done bad you will need a new boot and bonnet.
in the end i went for Schnitzers badges instead
mrlee
Re:
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:32 am
by e30mclow
Would it not work to weld in a piece, tac on some mesh and then fill it over? Or is that just gonna end in crying? Thanks for the tips though,it sounds like a bit more work than I thought...
Re:
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:41 am
by Royalratch
It's not that big a deal. I had some lead fills done on some small rust holes (pinehead sized) on my roof.
Apparently the sunroff drainage channels get blocked some times and need to be blown out with air otherwise your roof bubbles and rusts.
The guy used lead even on that as hit's the proper way to do it.
Put it this way, put the badge on for now and you can always take it off and do it after - the reverse is more difficult.
Re:
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:16 pm
by Andyboy
Rusty roof?? Nice!
It's got nothing to do with sunroof drain holes - when they block water sits in the channels and finds its way into the car. When a roof rots through it's due to poor sealing between the roof skin and the sunroof housing. I've seen a number of E30's with the headlining out and severe ramapnt rust on the inside. I think Ian332iSport had a complete new roof skin put on his car. That's the only way to deal with rust - lead is no better than plastic filler as it will always drop out when the rust gets around it. Lead MIGHT last longer, but not much.
Lead is a thing of the past and presents more problems than plastic filler, particularly with the paint. For example lead doesn't like being coated in modern primers and baked in an oven. As for removing the BMW badge and filling the hole, that is pretty nasty IMO.
To do it properly you need to weld or braze a steel disc into the bonnet and you have to be careful to avoid distorting the panel. Then grind it back and apply a very thin skim of filler. If you just fill the reccess, it will ALWAYS crack.
Re:
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:25 pm
by Royalratch
There was no evidence of seroious rust, they took the lining out to check. It was neare the sunroof seal so maybe from that although I change that regularly.
I don't like the de-badge thing either.
Re:
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:30 pm
by Andyboy
Was the rust on the roof skin or the sunroof panel itself? Rusty sunroof panels are now very common - like mint original front wings it'd be worth scouring the breakers for good ones and keeping a few 'in stock'.
Re:
Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 12:00 pm
by placey
at the end of the day do you have your name on your forehead? i've never figured mankind's need to label and badge everything. i'm in the process of de-badging and de-decalling the bike too.
i think de-badging looks good - on the right car though. get it wrong and it looks wrong.
my car was welded then lead loaded for the boot and bonnet over 2 years ago now - no problems so far and it can't be seen from any angle no matter what the light and how closely you look. dawsons did it for me - i went there because they know what they are doing. i would not trust this work to an average bodyshop - it requires someone with experience in this kind of modding.
hth - paul
Re:
Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 12:01 pm
by placey
that m3 looks excellent. de-locked and handled too. makes all the difference.
must be a worry having to leave the window down all the time to get in though....
paul
Re:
Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:08 am
by e36boy
Mate if your gonna do it, Make sure its done properly, I bought a car once with some flushed bits and after a few weeks it became apparant that the guy had done it on the cheap. IMO i wouldnt, Im not a purist by all means but i think on a car such as an e30 you should only change things you can put back to standard easily, for selling on in the future purpose, Because people who are buying such cars are likely to want something they can put back to how it left the factory.
Re:
Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:25 am
by Davenotouring
As Superintendant Chalmers said....
'What's the point in having a Honda if no-one knows it's a Honda.' After he got his badge stolen.
Maybe it would go if you are going for a 'bling'/euro look, if it's original, then no!!
Re:
Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
by Bailey
Surly you could pick up a cheap bonnet from somewhere and get it sprayed at the same time as the rest of your car, but smooth the badge. I had my car resprayed last year, and i'm gonna buy a second hand boot lid before spring so that i can spray it to match my car, but loose the spoiler. that way, when i fancy putting the spoiler back on (or in your case some badges) its not too much trouble.
As for the lead filled argument, that would be the proper way. Lets face it in the long run, if it was done with filler it would crack and it would be a full bonnet respray.
Not too sure why it had to be type h lead though.
Regards Guy.

Re:
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 1:25 pm
by Andyboy
Bailey wrote:As for the lead filled argument, that would be the proper way. Lets face it in the long run, if it was done with filler it would crack and it would be a full bonnet respray.
Lead will crack too - it's just another filler at the end of the day. Plastic filler only cracks it it's been poorly applied and lead is well known for causing paint problems after a while - lead really is a thing of the past.
Re:
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 5:48 pm
by Bailey
What would cause the lead to crack? surly if you key the bonnet well enough for the lead to grab to it wouldnt would it? The only reason body filler cracks is because it shrinks isnt it? I'm only asking coz i'm thinking of doing my rear badge.
regards, guy.
Re:
Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 8:14 pm
by BristolBulldog
Andyboy wrote:Rusty roof?? Nice!
It's got nothing to do with sunroof drain holes - when they block water sits in the channels and finds its way into the car. When a roof rots through it's due to poor sealing between the roof skin and the sunroof housing. I've seen a number of E30's with the headlining out and severe ramapnt rust on the inside. I think Ian332iSport had a complete new roof skin put on his car. That's the only way to deal with rust - lead is no better than plastic filler as it will always drop out when the rust gets around it. Lead MIGHT last longer, but not much.
Lead is a thing of the past and presents more problems than plastic filler, particularly with the paint. For example lead doesn't like being coated in modern primers and baked in an oven. As for removing the BMW badge and filling the hole, that is pretty nasty IMO.
To do it properly you need to weld or braze a steel disc into the bonnet and you have to be careful to avoid distorting the panel. Then grind it back and apply a very thin skim of filler. If you just fill the reccess, it will ALWAYS crack.
There is a way around the roof issue. Using some cci's. its like menthol waxoil. I put some sponges in the roof of the car, and my dad did some of the other stuff. it puts a coating a few microns thick over the the whole of the roof inside, and seals it. this coupled with the lead filing kept my first e30 (m10 318) as new for 5 years with no re-currence.
the lead filling was used, as filling needed the roof to be bent in to be filled. the lead just stuck to the abbraided surface, so was fine.
Lead filing isnt as hard as it sounds.
I considered using this, along with braising when fitting my m3 rear wings. Instead i used a low amp welder, thinner weld, and more gas than usual. Lead filing has the benefit of not distorting a thin panel if done properly.
Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:02 pm
by tbg
Re:
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:51 pm
by zinderz
looks nice
Re:
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:56 pm
by spence_star
Dont flush them, why dont you want people in front of you or behind you know that a Beema is up your ass or has just left you.
Its all about the badge but thats in my opinion.
Re:
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:05 pm
by dom-1984-320i
If not done properly you might be running the risk of looking a bit tacky IMO. Last thing you want is for cracks to show after time so if you go ahead and debadge you car please do it right. Personally i think keep the badge's but thats just my opinion mate.
Re:
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 12:13 am
by snooka
lose it!!! it gives everythin a smoother look, people will still recongnise you drive a BMW

bu they won't be able to steal (scratch ur hood) the sign
Re:
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 12:33 am
by itsky12
it's not a bmw with out u showing it off so everbody can see it