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M30 help

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:19 pm
by TW166Y
Right i'll try it but i dont know how far its gonna get me, To save hijacking other peoples threads by asking question i was wondering if all you m30 boys could help me out. I would like a big list of the things im going to need so me and my machanic friend can do it propperly and in the best way possible, Also as many pictures as possible would be a massive help, sort of like a step by step guide if the photo's are available. I need to know all about the wiring too, things like will i be ok using my 318 loom or does that go straight in the skip etc.... what rad to use, fan, best diff as ive been offered a 3:71 i think lsd, would that be any good? Sorry to keep waffeling on but i really need as many pointers as i can get, so i can basically print it all off in the and and show my machanic friend so we can crack on. Thanks in advane fellas, i know most of this has been covered before but i would like to generate my own little thread of a step by step guide! If you can be bothered to post and help me out i would be very greatfull, thanks again, pete

Re: M30 help

Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 10:01 pm
by Andy335Touring
Re-read my last PM dude, most of it's in there like a sugested dif ratio, also search through this section as theres plenty of juicy 335 threads 8)

Re: M30 help

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 12:24 pm
by TW166Y
yes andy, ive read your pm's dude, very helpfull indeed. i was just hopeing to get the most infomation as possible to help me on my quest but it seems noone is wanting to help me as of yet apart from yourself, did i do something wrong? :? I was told to start my own thread to save hijacking other peoples so i wanna just try and source as much info as possible, starting with step by step guide, like this

1. engine
2. box

and so on...........................

Then pictures explaining it all, i would really appreciate it. you must understand im a little dense when it come to actually taking things in, i need pictures to explain. sorry :mad:

cheers :D

Re: M30 help

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 3:16 pm
by gareth
if you want pics, look here:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v382/ ... onversion/

for specs, i have the following on mine

e30.de mounts with M20 rubbers
M30 from a E32 735i auto. used auto loom and ecu
flywheel and clutch from a E28 535i
E30 M3 prop
E30 M3 scorpion exhaust mated to modified E32 735i downpipes. i have a flange drawing for this if you want it.
E28 535 radiator
citroen BX 16V twin fans (though they aren't efficient so i will revisit this)
3.91 LSD though it makes first fairly useless!

Re: M30 help

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:39 pm
by LKTe30
Go to this site it has a complete write up with pics, it should answer most of your questions.

http://www.jaredsquires.com/ndp/335i/m30/

After reading that you will be able to ask more specific questions which will yeild quicker and more precise responses.

Re: M30 help

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:40 pm
by TW166Y
thanks for your help fella's

Re: M30 help

Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:15 pm
by gareth
i remember reading that site and finding a few bits that are wrong. possibly due to differences between UK and UK cars but the E34 prop DOES NOT simply mate to the E30 one without using a welder!

Image

this is the flange i had made for the downpipes to mate to the unmodified M3 system:
Image
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v382/ ... d23494.jpg
i have the drawing as a CAD file if you need it. a laser or waterjet cutter should be able to make you one for about Ԛ£35ish

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:52 am
by m10man
Mate any help I can give - happy to. That Jared Squires write up has some misleading instructions - he must have been on drugs with some of the things he said or the US cars are different.

Best advice I can give first up is buy a complete car - as there is a lot you need from it - save chasing the breakers.

With the prop shaft (I dont know if you guys got this model in the UK) but a post 1987 325e is a direct bolt as it is the right length and has the bigger flange.

Best thing is ask specific questions as you go through step by step - because everything conversion seems to have different issues.

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 3:38 am
by m10man
I have been meaning to put together a step by step manual (electronic version) so here is a good place to start. All help appreciated - If I have ommitted something or there is an alternative way or better way of doing soomething please guys post it. Maybe we can then put it in the Zones Tech Articles for others to refer to.

Step 1. Buy donor vehicle or engine/box and parts needed. Best donor vehicles are: E34 535i, E32 735i (manuals are better but autos will do). If an auto is bought then you will need a manual box from an E34 535i, 530i or E32 735i, 730i. The best box is a Getrag 260/6 but a 260/5 can also be used. Other donor vehicles can be E28 535i or E23 735i or E24 635csi.

If an auto is bought you will also need a flywheel (E28 single mass is a good choice - but the cluthes are more expensive) with flywheel bolts, pilot bearing and Clutch Kit.

Also purchase an E28 535i radiator and bottom radiator hose. Use the E34 top hose. While you are at it purchase an electric thermo fan - single 16 inch is a good choice and fits nicely in the space.

2. Purchase a set of custom engine mounting brackets. They can be bought from www.e30.de, Fritz Bitz, or m10man, or make your own. While you are at it purchase a new set of rubber engine and gearbox mounts if yours are less than satisfactory. Use the standard E30 325i ones.

3. Remove old engine and box and remove any unessecary engine compartment bits eg. heater hoses, coil, washer bottle etc. Wash and detail engine bay if you want. Bolt in new rubber engine and gearbox mounts (if purchased).

4. Check the new M30 engine for any oil leaks and replace seals or gaskets as necessary. Wash down and paint if you want. Remove fan and fan clutch. Intall new water pump. (good insurance) Grind off seam at the rear of the inlet manifold where it will be next to the brake booster. (If you so desire remove all seams and paint up) Check gearbox for leaks and replace seals if necessary. Clean is you want. Drain and fill with new oil as it is easier when out. If you are using the earlier chrome bumper model gear selector bracket then drill and tap the blind holes in the back of the gearbox. M10x1.5.

5. Install Pilot bearing, flywheel and clutch kit. Bolt on gearbox.

6. Bolt on the engine mounting brackets. Install engine and box from the top using an engine crane and tilter. Tighten the mounting bolts.

**This should keep you busy for a while Pete.**

Re:

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 4:44 pm
by TW166Y
thats what im talking about, thank you very much mate, your a star. going to pick up the doner car at the weekend so ill probably get stuck in either this weekend or next winkeye

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:32 pm
by DRIFTBOY
You beat me to it m10man!

I would just add that you can use the E34 535i rad in engine position 3 (furthest back), just shorten top and bottom hoses and use two right hand bottom E30 radiator mounts (E34 might use the right ones, I can't remember!). I riveted mine in place too just so they can't move, and shorten the rubbers on the E30 top rad mounting bracket.

I lifted the expansion bottle high up when bleeding the cooling system - which seems to take most people, including me, ages!

It is best to use the gear linkage from the E30 gearbox or the lever will be too far back (not sure if 4-cylinder ones are the same but I used my 325i linkages).
While I was at it I fitted a new BMW Z3 1.9 gear lever for a shorter shift travel. About Ԛ£20 from BMW dealer!

If you use position 3 the bulkhead will need a bit of beating in with a club hammer behind the cylinder head, or just next to the bottom of the battery tray.

You will need to play around a bit with M30 exhaust downpipes, I cut and welded mine to fit and made a slightly Mad Max system from exhaust tube I bought! I didn't help matters by fitting an E36 steering rack too, still giving me a few worries that, (steering has locked twice when cornering hard left) 8O

Also in pos 3 the top bell housing bolt can be burried in the bulkhead soundproofing!
I removed all my sound proofing, and also lopped off the top bolt lug of the bell housing, just to make getting the gearbox off easier in the future!

Wiring is quite easy but depends exactly what donor / actual car you are starting with. I think it helps if both cars are as similar age as possible but still not too bad.

If I think of anything else I will post it up here.

Good luck!

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:37 pm
by DRIFTBOY
I'm being blocked from editing my own post! :cry:

I did forget, keep the 3.5 and E30 propshafts.
If you can get hold of / afford an E30 M3 prop then go for that, otherwise you want to use the (shortened) front part of 3.5 prop and standard rear half of E30 prop.

Re:

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:35 pm
by TW166Y
magic fellas keep it all coming, starting soon and i cant wait winkeye

Re:

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:48 pm
by SPADGE
Twiggy if your donor vehicle falls through then i have just bought another one :mad: And its another manual 8) I'm half way through my conversion right now and if you need any advice in a hurry give me a call on 07718 901737.
Nice write-ups guys and will no doubt be read time and time again in the future!

Re:

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 12:23 am
by TW166Y
wicked spadge, just asking mate but what mileage does this other doner have on it? how much you after etc... "just incase" winkeye

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 1:02 pm
by DRIFTBOY
Oh yeah - you must also use an M20 engine coolant temperature sender for the guage to work!

And use a 3.5 M30 throttle cable!

Re:

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:12 pm
by TW166Y
all helps buddy, cheers mate, can i be cheeky and ask for lots of photos too 8)

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:20 pm
by DRIFTBOY
Yeah no probs!

Just let me know what you want pics of, they have nearly all gone from my thread!

Re:

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:58 pm
by TW166Y
all of them with breif understanding discription would be brill mate :D winkeye

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:01 pm
by DRIFTBOY
Ok, I haven't got much time tonight but I'll start loading them into Photobucket ready to put on. Might take me a while though!

Re:

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:35 pm
by TW166Y
no problem mate, like i said i need to gain as much info as possible, so if it takes a bit of time, so be it! id rather be full of knowledge rather to jump straight into it and be stuck more or less striaght away. like i said, im a bit dense when it comes to stuff like this, i need to put a picture to a description, once ive seen it and read it, it sticks. :D cheers fella, pete

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:35 am
by SPADGE
TW166Y wrote:wicked spadge, just asking mate but what mileage does this other doner have on it? how much you after etc... "just incase" winkeye
Its showing the usual 150k mate but seems sound. Been smoking it about today and it goes well 8)

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:27 pm
by ste
I thought you were fitting an M50 (as per your sig.)?

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 4:13 pm
by TW166Y
ste wrote:I thought you were fitting an M50 (as per your sig.)?
change of plan fella. winkeye

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 4:17 pm
by TW166Y
SPADGE wrote:
TW166Y wrote:wicked spadge, just asking mate but what mileage does this other doner have on it? how much you after etc... "just incase" winkeye
Its showing the usual 150k mate but seems sound. Been smoking it about today and it goes well 8)
ill let you know spadge by monday next week, i won this fooker on ebay lastnite and i should be picking it up on sunday 8O
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:01 pm
by SPADGE
TW166Y wrote:
SPADGE wrote:
TW166Y wrote:wicked spadge, just asking mate but what mileage does this other doner have on it? how much you after etc... "just incase" winkeye
Its showing the usual 150k mate but seems sound. Been smoking it about today and it goes well 8)
ill let you know spadge by monday next week, i won this fooker on ebay lastnite and i should be picking it up on sunday 8O
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1
Bargain mate!
I couldn't let my whole car go for that but i could remove and sell you the bits you need for about that :)

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:29 pm
by TW166Y
lol, we'll see mate. looks like im sorted for now mate, ive had a chat with the bloke and its looks good for the weekend! 8)

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:58 pm
by gareth
SPADGE wrote:Twiggy if your donor vehicle falls through then i have just bought another one :mad: And its another manual 8)
how many cars do you have now????!!!!!!!!! :D

oh, twiggy, i may want to liberate you of your towball if it's a bmw one (so no hacking the wiring). it would be handy to be able to use my wifes 325i sport as a towcar in case i can't get mine running before next years ultimate bmw show!!!!! :D

oh, it may well be a 550i V12 by then too so would make light work of towing a 335i!!! :D winkeye

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:03 pm
by TW166Y
:D No probs fella!

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:04 pm
by TW166Y
c-mon driftboy and all the other 3.5er's lets get me some pics up pleeeeease :o with breif descriptions too! thanks winkeye

Re:

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 11:11 pm
by Andy335Touring

Re:

Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:45 am
by TW166Y
quality andy :D

whats the crack with the gear linkage then? 8)

Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:24 am
by DRIFTBOY
That is quality, better than the pics I've got. I'll still post any usefull looking ones up though Twi66y.

I used the 325i gear linkage, comes out in about the right place and is a direct replacement for the E34 linkage.

Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 7:54 pm
by Andy335Touring
DRIFTBOY wrote:
I used the 325i gear linkage, comes out in about the right place and is a direct replacement for the E34 linkage.
At the time i did my swap i didn't know about the 325 linkage working, oh well :)

Re:

Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 7:58 pm
by TW166Y
ahhh, that sounds better, i was getting ready to get my macarno set out winkeye