E30 Zone

Right finally started this damn thing and this is where im at so far..





Yes it dirty, but dont have time to be cleaning it atm, its cleaner than it was!

Clutch and powersteering (inc e36 rack) are all piped in, prop is on, leccy fan in place. Desperately trying to find a rad, but everytime one pops up i miss out

Finally started? looks half complete!! you must work fast lol, good stuff

Now for the questions..

This pipe with the 90deg bends at the end, was part of the airpump that was removed, is it ok to remove and block up the resultant hole?



Whats this plug? on the same loom as the relays behind..



Ive got an M3 fan and this wiring to make it work.. Just need to know how to do it.. Please

Whats this plug.. on top of the header - same loom as the lambda probes

Gearbox is all in place etc and yes i have sat there playing with the gearshift

Its got some serious rake atm, hoping when its all together it'll level out slightly, front end is lower now with the S50 compared to the m40

also how is the accessory belt supposed to go and be tensioned? i can seem to remember how it went.. Belt is the same length as the original so ive got the right one

The open one??

That goes to the airbox, the one from the air pump came from under the oil pan and into the air cleaner box

na the one in the centre of the pic, it came from the other side of the engine, sure it was where the air pump connects to the head..

can you draw a circle around it??

Jhonno wrote:Whats this plug.. on top of the header - same loom as the lambda probes

Should be the plug for the reverse light switch on the gearbox.

Jhonno wrote: Whats this plug? on the same loom as the relays behind..

Isnt that the MAF connector?

also how is the accessory belt supposed to go and be tensioned? i can seem to remember how it went.. Belt is the same length as the original so ive got the right one

dude the "slack" section goes between the crank and waterpump pulley from the LHS,

so,working clockwise from the crank pully, up and over the tensioner, then around the waterpump pulley, then under the idler , over the alt and PAS drive pulleys then back to the crank.

HTH

jmc330i wrote:Should be the plug for the reverse light switch on the gearbox.

Oh right, so does that mean you dont use the same loom as you would an e30 manual box then, that comes through the gear lever section?

Gunni wrote:can you draw a circle around it??

Ant wrote:

also how is the accessory belt supposed to go and be tensioned? i can seem to remember how it went.. Belt is the same length as the original so ive got the right one

dude the "slack" section goes between the crank and waterpump pulley from the LHS,

so,working clockwise from the crank pully, up and over the tensioner, then around the waterpump pulley, then under the idler , over the alt and PAS drive pulleys then back to the crank.

HTH

Ant your a legend!!

Jhonno wrote:

jmc330i wrote:Should be the plug for the reverse light switch on the gearbox.

Oh right, so does that mean you dont use the same loom as you would an e30 manual box then, that comes through the gear lever section?

You know, I havent actually done anything about the reverse lights yet

Im sure that plug doesnt get used, you use the E30 wiring. You just need to tuck that wire out of the way some where.

Jhonno wrote:

jmc330i wrote:Should be the plug for the reverse light switch on the gearbox.

Oh right, so does that mean you dont use the same loom as you would an e30 manual box then, that comes through the gear lever section?

Dan,

You use the original E30 wiring for the reverse lights. You just need to fit a 2 pin connector like the one on the S50 loom on the end of it. As James said, you can just tuck the S50 reverse light wiring up out of the way somewhere.

Ian.

Jhonno wrote:

Gunni wrote:can you draw a circle around it??

Dan,

You can just bin that pipe. It was probably connected to a small electronic solenoid valve mounted on the intake side of the block. This valve needs to stay connected electrically to the wiring harness, but all the plumbing can be discarded. If you remove the valve as well, you will get errors stored in the ECU.

From memory, there were 2 or 3 small valves down there that can have their pipework removed.

Ian.

jmc330i wrote:

Jhonno wrote: Whats this plug? on the same loom as the relays behind..

Isnt that the MAF connector?

If it's a 4 pin connector, it's the MAF.

Ian.

Jhonno wrote:Ive got an M3 fan and this wiring to make it work.. Just need to know how to do it.. Please

Dan,

The 3 pin connector on the right is where the fan plugs in. The brown wire is a ground connection and goes to the ground point on the inner wing just behind the passengers side headlamp.

The other wires bundled up are probably for the radiator temperature switch (or switches depending on the age of the M3 that supplied it).

What connectors do you have on the other end of the loom ?

Ian.

ian332isport wrote:This valve needs to stay connected electrically to the wiring harness, but all the plumbing can be discarded. If you remove the valve as well, you will get errors stored in the ECU.

Will not having the valve connected to the loom affect the running of the engine?
I dont think Ive got the valve(s) unless they are in my big box of left over bits

jmc330i wrote:

ian332isport wrote:This valve needs to stay connected electrically to the wiring harness, but all the plumbing can be discarded. If you remove the valve as well, you will get errors stored in the ECU.

Will not having the valve connected to the loom affect the running of the engine?
I dont think Ive got the valve(s) unless they are in my big box of left over bits

Hi James,

I'm not 100% sure what would happen if you leave it disconnected. Most of it's emissions related rather than critical, so it probably won't affect the running etc.

I know from my initial list of fault codes that the ECU knows when things are not connected. Mine still flags up the lack of an air pump, and used to flag the aircon compressor before I fitted one. I'm not aware that either make any difference to the performance.

Ian.

Cheers Ian.

Will look into what bits I have left over, but atleast it shouldnt stop me getting it up and running.

Awesome stuff Ian and James!!

Will crack on with some of this tomorrow

Ian - ive got the fusebox on the end of the fan wiring..

Also whats the best thing to do bout temp switch?

Ooo another thing.. Finally sorted a damn rad!! Ԛ£32 delivered Nearly new!! i remember top hose is e36.. what about bottom and header tank setup. have an m20 header tank and pipework now

should have the silicone hoses for the matrix 2mo or fri..

Oil cooler is still needing a solution tho.. Need to ring BTB to see if they can do the manifold work asap!

Jhonno wrote:Ian - ive got the fusebox on the end of the fan wiring..

What, the whole thing

Jhonno wrote:Also whats the best thing to do bout temp switch?

Do you know what vintage the donor M3 was ?

Ideally you want to get it to run off a single (dual temp) switch, so it may need a bit of a re-wire.

Ian.

Yeah - got a whole fusebox taken from the m3 on the end of it.. not sure what year it was tho unfortunatly, anyway to tell?

Like this..

Jhonno wrote:Yeah - got a whole fusebox taken from the m3 on the end of it.. not sure what year it was tho unfortunatly, anyway to tell?

No way that I'm aware of.

If you can give me some wire colours on that section of wiring, I can probably trace it in my wiring diagrams.

On the fusebox end you will need to remove various pins and swap it across into your existing fusebox. If you are lucky, it will have a small 5 pin connector inside the fusebox which makes removal a lot easier, but I think that most M3's were hard wired. I know the M3 that supplied my wiring was hard wired.

Ian.

Ian.

Jhonno wrote:Like this..

Okay, that's hard wired. It's not the end of the world, but a bit more work to hook it up.

You need to follow each wire from the fan loom and remove each of the connectors from the M3 fuesbox. I'll do it for you if you can get it to me. It's easy when you know how, but easy to muller the pins if you don't.

Ian.

Nice one,another s50 coming together !

Hmm just spoke to BTB bout the manifold work.. they are booked up until mid november and it'll be Ԛ£500+VAT to do it.

Interesting considering the group buy was goin to be about Ԛ£480 inc manifolds..

Group buy was for a minimum of 5, which would make it worth their while making up the patterns or whatever it is they do.
Doing one car is always going to cost more as its a one off and they are only getting one lot of money, although theres no reason why they couldnt use your car for the group buy???

Oh yeah i realise that, my fault for leaving it so late for the wait, group buy is a quite a way off still i think also

But if i have to wait till Nov i'll have to buy a runaround whilst im @uni.. Some diesel wrongness should do

I did consider a temp 'log' maniflod to get mine running at one point.

It wouldnt be ideal, but it would get the car on the road.