m42-----S38-----2JZ big single

[ric325i]

bonnet fits! result.

[Andy335Touring]

Nice one Karan, be nice to see it at the pod meet if you are going ?

[Karan]

yeh ill try my best to be there and running the strip in fact 100% unless i go to the ring

[oguz327]

Awesome Karan, cant wait to see this in action

[d6dph]

What's the best smiley to sum up the sound??

Ooh here it is

Good to see you tonight fella, Well done on getting the car sorted. Sounded fantastic as you left lakeside.

[Karan]

cheers mate great to see u again too!!!

so relieved the cars finally on the road and running so well all round... its been a LONG LONG time coming

Now i gotta go fix my japturd and prepare it for a good few hard trackdays without the engine shitting itself.... or most probably the gbox again... maybe i can get a trailer and tow it with the e30

karan

[d6dph]

Are you sure the E30 has the power to be a towcar?

[Karan]

tachometer corrected using interface from dakota digital, and oil temp gauge on m3 clocks wired in!! all works lovely jubbly

larger sucking fan fitted-much much better, but temp still wanders up to 3/4 after a long stop but doesnt go over this, dont know what more i can do about this without getting another radiator built (another £500 lol) but rad must be fine as car runs at 1/4 once rolling.... i think i'll just have to live with it

little bits are getting there slowly but surely

next:

1. fit 19 row mocal cooler
2. uprate master cylinder and servo
3. sort out few bodywork niggles
4. fit hartge wheels with tyres and onto car with bodywork where necessary.

have also put correct oil and gearbox oil in car.

will get some pics over the weekend

Karan

[Toby_Unna]

have you got a temp sender that matches the gauges fitted, or are you using the S38 one?

maybe that engine is just ok running hotter?

not convinced by those spacers, but looking forward to seeing (hearing!) this at the Pod if you go

[Karan]

hi toby,

yeh im using an e30 brown sender as the s38 wouldnt read on the e30 clocks

i wasnt convinced by the spacers either, but they have solved the problem with no adverse handling issues, and trust me ive given it some beans in the twisties

Karan

[Toby_Unna]

cool, guess they're ok then!

i don't really see why an s38 should produce noticably more waste heat at idle than an M30, and those don't generally run hot at idle in E30s - even when cooled by a super-thin Spal fan that's having to suck through an intercooler first! even when mine was idling at over 1300 when hot it never went over halfway if i used the fan...

[ian332isport]

i don't really see why an s38 should produce noticably more waste heat at idle than an M30...

I don't either, but my S50 also produces a huge amount of heat. Maybe it's an 'M' engine thing

[Karan]

i think my rad might be marginal then, seems ok with the new fan though

will have to get a water temp sensor in hot pipe to rad and see whats really going on.... if its one thing i know, its to only use the e30 gauges as a rough guide lol

[gareth]

there is the surface area of the 6 branch manifold that will increase underbonnet temps a bit over a simple compact cast unit.

otherwise, i don't see why it shoud necessarily run hotter

[Globulator]

Just a wayout thought about the temperature - you've put in a new thermostat right? A lazy one may restrict flow at idle (when water flow is lowest).

Also I'd check if the old system had any little heater pipes etc that need bypassing instead of plugging.

IMO if it's fine when you are moving it's probably not the rad size...

[Toby_Unna]

you can get a 'hot and high' climate thermostat from BMW if i remember right, that'll open earlier (cooler). not that it should need one really.

I agree with the above, if it doesn't blow its top when you rag the crap out of it the rad is probably big enough

[Karan]

well took it for a rag tpday and it was fine..... i think as i said before... a check with a plumbed in sender thermostat should reveal all, but it has yet to go over 3/4 in traffic....

[ste]

My E34 M5s were the same Karan. Seemed to get very hot under the bonnet and climbed the gauge more than other E34s. All was well though, I think it's just the way they are.

[Karan]

i just dont want it to go red if i end up sitting for hrs at standstill on the mway..... but ive sat around for about 30mins and it hasnt got hot... i think im just being paranoid or something as the car seems to be running too well to be true at the moment touch wood.... i expected lots of stuff to break and die and leak etc.....

[Toby_Unna]

i think im just being paranoid or something as the car seems to be running too well to be true at the moment touch wood.... i expected lots of stuff to break and die and leak etc.....

i have the same problem, mine's far more reliable than it ought to be!

is there space to add a small fan from a bike karan? or try 2 bike fans instead of the big one? is the fan snug against the radiator?

from what Ste says it sounds like it's probably ok as it is though - though i agree that watching the gauge climb while you sit in traffic is horrible!

[Karan]

well i moved the rad foward further into the front panel so no room for a fan in front now.... then as i said before fitted a much larger suck thru spal fan which i have sealed around the edges with and adhesive foam on the facing.....

on another note me and my dad just picked our r32 gtr skyline up from the docks today... it needs some work though like exhaust is broken and boost controller is also broken..
so looks like i'll be busy with jap crap again

and to add insult to my current silvia rebuild/ furhter track/competition prep.... i cross threaded my new large baffled sump's plug hole, as i think the magnetic sump plug they sent me wasnt correct

Karan

[Shoomakan]

Ahh, the good old days when I had an S13... sold it to get the E30, actually...

[MarkHooper]

i agree with globulator about the bypassing of some pipes instead of blocking them. i had this exact same situation on a peugeot mi16 engine. it ran a bar hotter on the gauge with pipes blocked. with the correct bypass pipe fitted the temp was much more stable and a bar lower. worth investigating if this could be a solution to your heat problem??? also if you're really stabbing in the dark at finding the heat source, if yer manifold is stainless, maybe get some heatwrapping and insulate it down to just past where all the branches collect. it may help although ive no experience of using the stuff to say if it actually does.

[Patm3]

As you probably know Karan i had the same problem with my one, used to go up in the red though but never overheated or kicked out water, as soon as i put my foot down on the gas the needle use to travel straight down back to the 1/2 mark.

It was like that for about 6 months and went to loads of garages who could not solve the problem. Eventually it went to one mechanic who realised that a pipe was blocked that sent the water back to the rad bottle so the circulation was bad, with a bit of drilling the problem was solved but to this day i still watch the needle especially in traffic, and dont know if any damage has been caused to the engine, but its been running non stop for a year and a half now no problems.

Last year at the pod had to keep switching it off as it was going up to the red, and as i said i got this problem solved, now this year i have a fuse blowing every damn minute that operates the fan, if it aint one thing its another . so will be watching and listening for the fan yet again this year at the pod, are you going and running, as i would like to see the proper performance of this engine conversion. will never get good times in my car as its heavy due to being a convert, the hardtop does not help or the two 15" subs in the boot which i will not be removing.

I have always heard this conversion referred to as a prosche beater hope you can bring your car and do the 1/4 mile at the pod, so i can see what my car should be doing

[Karan]

fitted my hartge m3 wheels with some 225/40 toyos al round, wheels are 8.5 rear and 7.5 front

they look great!!

also put some poly engine mounts on... tey have increased vibratiuon a tad at lower revs but i can live with that. the huge downpipes now no longer touch the lollipop bracket on cornering either which is great, and throttle response feels beter also

the handling is now great too much better than i was expecting, no more understeer than a m20 car, maybe less and its more easily neutralised with the power neway. one handling trait however is the lift off or trail braking oversteer which is great on the road... but on track in high speed entries may be interesting

the cars really come together now, and once ive redone the brake piping, bigger master cylinder, better pads, i'll drop the engine out and get it near to a bare shell and have it resprayed in nice n shiny brill red!!!!

[Karan]

also need to remove that rather annoying speed limiter that it seems to have

[kuntz_de]

good project

it's taking time but with great cars they take time to come together and be at a set standard where you the owner and driver is happy

not many people seem to understand how much time and effort goes into them, let alone the cost. 90% is easy to achive , the final 10% to complete is the hardest

again, i say well done and good luck

[1an]

needs some new pictures of these wheels,

[Dan318-is]

K i was down you ends the other night (about 2am) driving about, didnt no chesnut was that close to hatfield! Houses are a million times nicer your end

[Andy335Touring]

Very nice conversion dude, it's a shame i didn't get a proper look at it at the pod meet

[e30cbe]

super job karan , looking to do the same here , thanks for all the info in the thread

[Karan]

went to the autobahn recently and did a nice 4th gear pull to 140ish
shall get it up on pootube!

[Theo]

Ahh yes, the famous Hertfordshire autobahn, there are a couple of them in kent too

[Karan]

[glenn]